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Thread: Annealing

  1. #31
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    Thanks BLK.
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by zimmer View Post
    Sorry, you have lost me - what is the purpose of dunking them in water?
    It cools them down quickly. Once the neck had reached the right temp you don't want that spreading further down the case. Maybe it makes no difference but it makes a cool sizzling sound when it hits the water.
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  3. #33
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    I found this on youtube, which looks to me to be a good explanation of the basic concepts involved - and the process. Looks to be a good little machine too and not a bad price.

    https://youtu.be/lU2DWMiMeUo
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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by MassiveAttack View Post
    It cools them down quickly. Once the neck had reached the right temp you don't want that spreading further down the case. Maybe it makes no difference but it makes a cool sizzling sound when it hits the water.
    Just wondered as some believe they need to do it for metalurgical reasons. I long stopped cooling mine down by dunking - just another step required in the process then - dry them off. Using Omegalaq proved to me once the flame is removed no further heating occurs that can have any sort of serious effect on the base. Might be an issue though on short cases. But still, that cool sizzling sound has something going for it
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  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by WillB View Post
    I found this on youtube, which looks to me to be a good explanation of the basic concepts involved - and the process. Looks to be a good little machine too and not a bad price.

    https://youtu.be/lU2DWMiMeUo
    Nice machine, similar to the Girard (spelling?). A few on this forum have posted their homemade versions of that one, and a few with the rotating "cake tine with slot" which is also a good design.
    If the prices for induction annealers comes down I think induction will kill the gas flame types.
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  6. #36
    P38
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    @WillB

    I built one of Skippys Black Beauty Case Annealers for bugger all.

    Skippy posted the build and parts list on the Aussie Hunters Forum.

    Parts were sourced from Ali express.

    https://youtu.be/0-C-i0Kr2jU

    And in the immortal words of the designer Skippy

    I'm as happy as a pig in shit too

    Cheers
    Pete
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    After awhile you realise the Pig loves it.

  7. #37
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    Cheers Pete that thing is awesome! Could I trouble you for the URL of the forum? Not sure which one he's on. Maybe I'll give it a crack. What sort of skill level you reckon? I am not any sort of engineer
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  8. #38
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    I did it by buying the equipment and looking at the design pictures on another annealing thread on this forum. Managed to make one out of colour steel guttering. I'm definitely no engineer. The only tough bit is getting the rotating bits true.

    Cheers @P38

    Sent from my GT-I8190T using Tapatalk
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  9. #39
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    @WillB

    The hardest part of this build was ordering the parts from aliexpress

    I'm sure anyone who knows which end of the screwdriver to hold could build this.

    I'll look up the link shortly and post it here.

    Cheers
    Pete
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  10. #40
    P38
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    @WillB

    Here's Skips annealing machine plans and original discussion.
    http://shootingaustralia.net/forum/r...er-black-betty

    You have to be a member of the forum to be able to see the detailed plans.

    I also note he's posted some upgrades too.

    Join up its a good forum.

    Have a go at the build, worst case it you'll enjoy yourself.

    Or if your a complete Girls Blouse you can contact Skip and buy one from him.
    http://shootingaustralia.net/forum/r...ler-v2-0-built



    Cheers
    Pete
    Last edited by P38; 19-01-2017 at 06:26 PM.
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  11. #41
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    @P38 thanks man that's cool and much appreciated. I will think long and hard about how I look in a blouse and make the appropriate decision at the appropriate time. Pics to follow.

  12. #42
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    Name:  IMG_1398.jpg
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    Hi guys so I've had another go at it. This time I had a bunch of 6 times fired cases. I used the timer on my phone and held each one in the tip of the inner blue portion of the flame for 6 seconds. Used bare hands as per your suggestion Massive Attack. Could just feel it start to get warm when the time was up. I've crush tested one of these versus a brand new never fired but full length resized case and they feel very similar. If anything, the annealed case would be ever so slightly softer. I feel pretty confident that these are either annealed and safe, or not annealed at all. Which is where you want to be I guess. Certainly a step forward from last time. But then I noticed these:

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    Strange little nick marks. Not vertical but horizontal. This one is particularly bad but all the cases have them. I'd be best to chuck them out?

    thanks for the input.
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  13. #43
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    PS I'm guessing these might be form of abrasion - when cases are extracted from the die or the chamber - like the tight fitting contact with the walls has dragged some adhering portions of material back?

  14. #44
    P38
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    Looks like your onto it @WillB

    Yes check your dies very carefully, start with an unmarked case the run it through your dies, if no marks run the case through your rifle chamber, if still no marks then it was done somewhere else.

    Maybe from a burr on your socket if you used a socket for the anneal process.

    Cheers
    Pete
    Arguing with an Engineer is like Wrestling a Pig in Mud.

    After awhile you realise the Pig loves it.

  15. #45
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    Thanks Pete. Do you think I should chuck them? I've just resized, chamfered and annealed, godammit.

 

 

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