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Thread: Best time to clean brass

  1. #16
    Sending it Gibo's Avatar
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    I just buy new lapua brass each time. Biff the once fired and grab a new shiny one, only need a seating die now
    Dead is better likes this.
    Werawhakaui?

    Rule 4. Identify your target beyond all doubt.

  2. #17
    MIA somewhere in Nam 300CALMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibo View Post
    I just buy new lapua brass each time. Biff the once fired and grab a new shiny one, only need a seating die now
    Well Gibo you must be "Loaded" then

    I don't care about cleaning first unless the brass is truly filthy as I think removing the lube is much more important.

    -Lube with spray on suff (smells like oranges)
    -FL die or Collet
    - Wet tumble with two table spoons of dish wash and a pinch of ascorbic acid (Thumlers Tumbler)
    - rinse with water and then meths
    - dry in oven at 100 C
    - prime
    - load
    - look at the shiny ammo!

    My FL dies get a periodic clean out but never had a problem...

  3. #18
    Member Tommy's Avatar
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    Clean brass makes it easier to spot problems with brass like splitting etc, and clean guts makes spotting a low charge easier too.

    Ditto on the filthiness of suppressed semi brass.
    R93, Beaker and specweapon like this.
    Identify your target beyond all doubt

  4. #19
    Member Dead is better's Avatar
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    I've actually never seen a split neck on a lapua case but then again i dont yet shoot the higher cals.

  5. #20
    Member Bryan's Avatar
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    I tumble all my brass before it goes through my dies. Helps me spot any problems, keeps my dies clean and is nicer to work with.

    Mostly neck size so there is only ever a small amount of graphite powder around the neck after sizing, which wipes off easily.

    Also wear cheap latex gloves which keep the brass clear of any marks. i like my stuff shiny!
    Beaker likes this.
    Hunting is not a hobby.....its an addiction

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300CALMAN View Post
    Well Gibo you must be "Loaded" then

    I don't care about cleaning first unless the brass is truly filthy as I think removing the lube is much more important.

    -Lube with spray on suff (smells like oranges)
    -FL die or Collet
    - Wet tumble with two table spoons of dish wash and a pinch of ascorbic acid (Thumlers Tumbler)
    - rinse with water and then meths
    - dry in oven at 100 C
    - prime
    - load
    - look at the shiny ammo!

    My FL dies get a periodic clean out but never had a problem...
    If you are using a collet die you can skip lubing and avoid the whole mess\cleaning stages.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by specweapon View Post
    ...
    A club member tried ultrasonic after loading bulk .223 and then put them in the oven on low to dry quickly, heat wasn't low enough because one went bang and smashed the glass door
    What!!????

    Why on earth would you prime a case before drying it? Hope someone with some clues is now helping the guy.

  8. #23
    Sending it Gibo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6x47 View Post
    What!!????

    Why on earth would you prime a case before drying it? Hope someone with some clues is now helping the guy.
    Just primed? I read it as loaded rounds
    gadgetman and .300 RUM Guy like this.
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  9. #24
    Member norsk's Avatar
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    A trick I use for lubing Brass:

    Bung them in a large zip lock bag,give it a spray with slicone spray,zip it up and toss the contents around.

    Lubes all the cases nicely.

    For cleaning Black powder stuff,I use an ultrasonic cleaner,then tumble them.
    "Sixty percent of the time,it works every time"

  10. #25
    Member Danny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibo View Post
    I just buy new lapua brass each time. Biff the once fired and grab a new shiny one, only need a seating die now
    Your welcome @Gibo


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Gibo likes this.
    Dan M

  11. #26
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    I tumble mine in walnut media for about 4 hours.
    Then spray with Dillion lube equivalent (Homemade).
    Size, deprime and load if its pistol else resize and trim if needed if rifle before loading.
    Never clean off the lube. Never enough lube to worry about but it may depend on what lube you use.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by specweapon View Post
    A club member tried ultrasonic after loading bulk .223 and then put them in the oven on low to dry quickly, heat wasn't low enough because one went bang and smashed the glass door
    Obviously Dude's gonna need some sense talked into him... like getting the oven fitted with bullet proof glass, next time!

  13. #28
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    Lubed brass raises the pressure in your rounds because the saami spec assumes unlubed brass that sticks to the chamber when fired and then contracts to to let the round be extracted. Lubed brass doesn't stick to the chamber as well and therefore raises the amount of rearward force on the bolt.

    Welcome to Culver's Shooting Page

  14. #29
    Member nightshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MassiveAttack View Post
    Lubed brass raises the pressure in your rounds because the saami spec assumes unlubed brass that sticks to the chamber when fired and then contracts to to let the round be extracted. Lubed brass doesn't stick to the chamber as well and therefore raises the amount of rearward force on the bolt.

    Welcome to Culver's Shooting Page
    i have also heard that some lubes can build up and bake on in the chamber,i don't know if that ture but i clean my cases of lube
    Dead is better likes this.

  15. #30
    MIA somewhere in Nam 300CALMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MassiveAttack View Post
    If you are using a collet die you can skip lubing and avoid the whole mess\cleaning stages.
    Actually I didn't use to clean at all when collet sizing! I do like shiny brass though..

 

 

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