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Thread: my 7x60 wildcat project

  1. #16
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    Nothing really to add

    You got there in the end

    The real key to case forming is

    Very tidy chamfered neck. Don't leave the slightest nick or it will fail

    Proper annealing

    Imperial sizing wax applied sparingly by hand

    One slow single pass through the dies

    Re trim to length and re anneal and go shoot

    If you do little nibbles up and down you will work harden the anneal off and then it will often fail.
    Don't be scared to anneal properly. Do it in a nearly dark place and don't try and see the red on the outside, its too hard with the flame. Look just inside the neck to see a very clear view of the colour and then just run it down the case once you have a feel for it
    Moa Hunter, Micky Duck and -BW- like this.
    The Church of
    John Browning
    of the Later-Day Shooter

  2. #17
    Member Brian's Avatar
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    I took the handle off a case trimmer and put a battery drill on it. Takes 2-3mm off in no time.
    The dimpled cases will come out perfect after firing them as long as you can chamber them.

  3. #18
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    if 7mm08 is shorter you could use pilot from one to keep case centred nicely and use said same cordless drill with lee cutter ..just stop and remeasure till its right then champher inside and out while still in drill.
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  4. #19
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    Regarding the freebore on the reamer, it is reasonably easy for Manson to regrind it slightly shorter. It is nearly impossible to add some freebore on said reamer, unless they regrind the whole thing.
    Micky Duck and Jaco Goosen like this.

  5. #20
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    I've often thought that a 7x57 AI would have about perfect capacity and I am guessing this 7x60 will be much the same ?

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moa Hunter View Post
    I've often thought that a 7x57 AI would have about perfect capacity and I am guessing this 7x60 will be much the same ?
    Pretty much. the x60 will be a little more capacity than the Ackley but without the benefit of sharper shoulder angle. On the plus side, the x60 doesn't need new dies.
    Micky Duck likes this.

  7. #22
    Member chainsaw's Avatar
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    Interesting project & write up. Thanks for sharing.
    I’ve played around with re-sizing brass for a few wild cats & also as a means of forming brass that is currently not obtainable.
    I found that the crushed or dented shoulder problem could be overcome by neck sizing first, making no attempt to set the shoulder back in this step. This required a small amount of lube to neck. When sizing down I remove the decapping rod & expander ball. Once the neck is re-sized I then use FL die , again no decap rod, to start bumping shoulder back. Plenty of lube (Imperial sizing wax) applied to case body only, then firm slow (real slow) stroke thru the press. Then move the die down a 1/4 turn and repeat, etc till you get the shoulder length to what you need. Then trim the neck to length, then neck size with decap & expander. Then anneal.
    Some brass, like your 2506 cases above, ends up with the old shoulder line forming a ridge around the neck area. Can be reduced by running thru NS die.
    Jaco Goosen likes this.

  8. #23
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    Well said MD. I was explaining this with Lars tje other day when he called about his new rifles FB. I belief a long freebore to not be a bad thing, not in a hunting rifle.
    Micky Duck likes this.

  9. #24
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    Not with this reamer, the freebore has been ground at a set value and will cut the following chamber to the same dimension.

  10. #25
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    twice in last 6 months Ive cursed a short freebore when ejecting a round and leaving projectile in rifling...effectively ending procedings unto could get home to remove it... luckily both times I was on way out of area... didnt feel overly tight shutting bolt..but certainly knew it opening it again..actually bent alloy cleaning rod removing projectile the 2nd time...and STILL couldnt carry on as big chunky stick powder doesnt let bolt close well at all.... took rifle apart and sprayed some shit in chamber then hosed out with garden hose and cleaned and put back together... lesson learnt.I normally always run loaded rounds through after reloading...its great being able to remove firing pin/spring n striker from bolt in one bit to allow this.
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  11. #26
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    Not familiar with quick load, but in Gordon's Reloading Tool you can design a case and then work powder and projectile performance. Since you have the chamber specs it could be a way to get load info.

  12. #27
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    Ummm, why didnt you just make it a 7x64mm? Very common in Europe. Am I being too obvious?
    shooternz and shananah like this.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnd View Post
    Not familiar with quick load, but in Gordon's Reloading Tool you can design a case and then work powder and projectile performance. Since you have the chamber specs it could be a way to get load info.
    Yep! my thinking exactly Paker Hale even chambered the 7x64, Would have bought one in the late 1970'sbt fur the lack of ammo,
    There could be a problem registering it Plods system is flawed which is to be exspected it does not do well with wildcats or even .303's

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnd View Post
    Not familiar with quick load, but in Gordon's Reloading Tool you can design a case and then work powder and projectile performance. Since you have the chamber specs it could be a way to get load info.
    Thanks for the tip, I’ll definitely give that a go!

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    twice in last 6 months Ive cursed a short freebore when ejecting a round and leaving projectile in rifling...effectively ending procedings unto could get home to remove it... luckily both times I was on way out of area... didnt feel overly tight shutting bolt..but certainly knew it opening it again..actually bent alloy cleaning rod removing projectile the 2nd time...and STILL couldnt carry on as big chunky stick powder doesnt let bolt close well at all.... took rifle apart and sprayed some shit in chamber then hosed out with garden hose and cleaned and put back together... lesson learnt.I normally always run loaded rounds through after reloading...its great being able to remove firing pin/spring n striker from bolt in one bit to allow this.
    Greetings @Micky Duck,
    I now check the crush length for each new batch of projectiles and adjust the overall length of the round to give 1mm clearance. I started doing this after noticing that the position and shape on later batches of Hornady projectiles were further forward than older ones. Recently setting up to load the 60 grain VMax projectiles in one of my .223 rifles my measured crush length was about 1mm shorter than the cartridge overall length given in the Hodgdons data for the same projectile.
    GPM.
    Micky Duck likes this.

 

 

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