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Thread: Calibre and Barrel Length Decision......

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibo View Post
    Get a carbon stock and get the rifle coated for about $250. The coating is pretty hardy, better than blueing anyway. Why do you need it to be ss to get a carbon fibre?
    Simple answer is I had assumed that coatings do not offer any additional protection to the bore, hence the inclination to go ss.
    Kiwi Greg likes this.

  2. #62
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    You are supposed to maintain your weapon...
    The black bear from sako is very nice but might be a bit heavy for what you want to do?

  3. #63
    Terminator Products Kiwi Greg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Friwi View Post
    You are supposed to maintain your firearm...
    The black bear from sako is very nice but might be a bit heavy for what you want to do?
    Its extremely easy to get rust in/on a chrome moly barrel/action whilst hunting in NZ for a few days

  4. #64
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    Specially when hunting in Stewart island...
    How ever I got two customers sakos this week, a 222 L461 and an A2 in 243, both with original barrels and their bore where in immaculate conditions inside.

  5. #65
    Member mikee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg View Post
    Its extremely easy to get rust in/on a chrome moly barrel/action whilst hunting in NZ for a few days
    one of mine (and you know which one) rusts in the bloody gun safe and yet none of the other rifles / shotguns do
    If you think it's expensive to hire a professional to do the job, wait until you hire an amateur.

  6. #66
    Member 10-Ring's Avatar
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    The bore on chrome moly barrels take a little extra effort, like a minute or two. In damp conditions just pull a lightly coated oil patch through the barrel before beddy byes and a clean patch through in the morning. Nothing that hunters haven't being doing for over a hundred years. Stainless will rust too but not as fast as CM. I've seen a few SS bores that were pitted; it's not the same stainless as the kitchen sink is made of.

    Personally, I would never base the purchase of a rifle on whether it's stainless or not.
    Never try to teach a pig to sing...
    ...it wastes your time and annoys the pig!

  7. #67
    Member 10-Ring's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shift14 View Post
    There are better options IMO if you want to go Sako, than shortening a Finlite or an '85 Hunter.

    This is THE nicest Sako I've handled, available in NZ and in .308. No need to chop, and easily threaded by removing the factory open sights and blanking the threaded holes that are exposed with grub screws.
    Medium profile factory fluted barrel, nice soft touch stock, points beautifully.



    A competent gunsmith should be able thread it without shortening it, and fit an 'invisible' thread protector that will allow you to refit the factory sights if you decide to sell it down the track.

    I'm sure @10-Ring will chime in if you want load data etc.

    B

    I bought a Black Bear based on it's handling - preferred it to the Finnlight because of this. Super accurate too and so is a mate's one. A little heavier than a Finnlight but not a huge amount more.
    Never try to teach a pig to sing...
    ...it wastes your time and annoys the pig!

  8. #68
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    I am rethinking my attitude to weight having recently gone from tikka to a Blaser. It's 500 g heavier (4.6kg v 4.1 all up). It's easier to shoot. Have yet to take it on an extended walk but was up and down some steep hills yesterday and can't say I really noticed a difference.

 

 

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