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Thread: Ruger 10/22 - Tricks, tips and modifications

  1. #46
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    The design has merit, but I suspect the Gun City implementation is not quite up to the Volquartsen standard. https://www.volquartsen.com/products...tension-barrel.

    The suppressor is separate from the barrel, but keeps the same form factor for a better aesthetic. The suppressor is totally rubbish at sound suppression by the way. I believe the suppressor is part of the barrel price and are sold together.
    planenutz likes this.

  2. #47
    Member Carpe Diem's Avatar
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    Here's my wee project - If i can call it that.

    Somebody had lovingly put this together but had made some glaring errors so was obviously sold as it didn't shoot as well as they hoped. As Gun doc says a bit of love and attention goes a long way... I bought it mainly for the B&C odyssey stock and the Volquartsen barrel which is otherwise worth a the entire normal 10/22 in price. On closer inspection the only thing that was stock was the receiver housing with the serials attached. Everything else was Volquartsen or B&C

    I really like the rail tapped to the barrel rather than the receiver (how many of you have seen those misaligned over the years!!
    OK so what it wouldn't do....
    1. Extract CCI out of the barrel given the fine tolerances of the Volquartsen target barrel - Would shoot SK fine... but that's getting had to find these days.... little bit of love to create a deeper extraction depression on the barrel end with the Dremel diamond burr and polish out. Now it grabs the edge of the round extracting happily for those wax covered rounds.
    2. Polish internal face of the receiver to mate to nice polished block of the action. as this is a metal to metal face and can fill with carbon over time I like to polish up so you can tell when its clean and tidy.
    3. Dremel polish /light grind for the housing around the mag area so that the standard 10 box would fall nicely out of the stock when you hit the release button. Now this was more for me shooting details so there wasn't mucking around etc with mag changes as the B&C was a tight fit so we just made sure this was optimised.
    4. Take the tension out of the rear grub srcrew in the rail as this was screwed in too tight and lifted the bum of the scope. Sat the straight edge on this and reset apropriately.
    5. Took the barrel out and reseated - similar to Gun doc said the V block was tightened incorrectly twisting the barrel down into the barrel channel. As there was a very firm fit - we re-seated and re torqued the v block with correct settings hey presto no touching the channel once a small metal washer was placed under the king screw also - as as a checking point prior to a proper bedding job.

    Haven't got to the bedding job yet - haven't needed to shoots happily cci standard rounds at 1/2 nail size (if I do my thing any way)

    Next change on the list and what I would recommend is a Kidd aftermarket trigger from Darrin at USA Guns Ltd as the Volquartsen one it comes with is a consistent single setting of 2.5 lb's.

    We'll see if I can be bothered in doing a full bedding and rear Kidd lug for this one in the future.

    Here she is...

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    Last edited by Carpe Diem; 19-12-2016 at 09:41 AM. Reason: typo
    Scouser and quentin like this.

  3. #48
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    Trigger job and threading by Gundoc, Choate Draganov stock, weaver base with 3.5-10X50 scope (BSA Phantom) Shoots bloody well and has killed over 5000 bunnies
    Boaraxa likes this.

  4. #49
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    Anyone know who would sell spare magazine retention plunger and spring? No idea where mine went in the process of stripping it down for a good clean and putting a new stock on

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by 223nut View Post
    Anyone know who would sell spare magazine retention plunger and spring? No idea where mine went in the process of stripping it down for a good clean and putting a new stock on
    Bugger. Bloody Weka's.
    Sideshow likes this.

  6. #51
    SiB
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    I've just fitted my choate dragunov stock; what's the smart trick to removing the rear sight block so I can fit the upper part too? (Without removing my scope)

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiB View Post
    I've just fitted my choate dragunov stock; what's the smart trick to removing the rear sight block so I can fit the upper part too? (Without removing my scope)
    i didnt have too, it had a cut out that went over the rear sight. however if you want to remove it put something that wont scratch it like a toothbrush handle and tap it out with a hammer from right to left

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by planenutz View Post
    Bugger. Bloody Weka's.
    Nope just an idiot with a screwdriver that tried doing thing in a shed full of carp not on a clean work table...
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  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by 223nut View Post
    Nope just an idiot with a screwdriver that tried doing thing in a shed full of carp not on a clean work table...
    a shed full of carp? the fish smell would be as bad as a lesbian mardi gras !!
    Scouser and Steve123 like this.

  10. #55
    Member sako75's Avatar
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    Like the left hand charging handle

    I have a slide on plastic silencer which I use when needed. Not flash but does the job. Don't bother with the hose clip

  11. #56
    Full of shit Ryan_Songhurst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 223nut View Post
    Nope just an idiot with a screwdriver that tried doing thing in a shed full of carp not on a clean work table...
    ????

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    dannyb likes this.

  12. #57
    res
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    Quote Originally Posted by sako75 View Post
    Like the left hand charging handle
    I just don't get this, it's so easy to cut a slot and make a proper left handed charging handle for a ruger 10/22.

    Hell, without a machine shop I have even made three left hand eject ones for mates-it's hardly rocket science!
    planenutz likes this.
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  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by res View Post
    ... I have even made three left hand eject ones for mates-it's hardly rocket science!
    That sounds like fun. Most of it seems straight forward. Did you close off the right side or leave it open?

  14. #59
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    I had one of the kidd ones
    only part labeled ruger was the mag...... that was fantastic it was my 25m indoor rifle which replaced a bolt action
    was over 2k worth then I had a 6-20 leupold on top
    was the only 10/22 if had (an ive had a few) that's been truly what I call accurate (same hole at 25m,well under an inch at 50,and close to an inch at 100)
    I stupidly sold that rifle way to cheep after failing on trademe a couple of times a guy was trying to work me down over the phone I was busy and and in a hurry at the time and agreed on a price I shouldn't have I tried to renege the next day but he gave me the major gilt trip he got a real good deal there

    they are the most reliable semi 22 on the market maybe not the most accurate out the box (but easily modifiable as title says) a fantastic bunny gun get the right ammo keep it clean and you will never have a jam

  15. #60
    res
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    Quote Originally Posted by planenutz View Post
    That sounds like fun. Most of it seems straight forward. Did you close off the right side or leave it open?
    Left it open, well at least one of the guys has closed it with duct tape.
    Closing it up properly is beyond my abilities as a welder unfortunately-I know, I should hand in my man card.
    planenutz likes this.
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