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Thread: The flashlight sticky

  1. #31
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    I use a hot air attachment on a gas soldering iron and heat for about 20-30 seconds. As is heats I press down on the dome with a hollow ground jewellers screwdriver; this tests the softness and when soft enough the edges of the dome lift off the die. Then a gentle lift on the edge opposite the fine connecting wires inside sees the dome just pop off. The solder melting is not an issue as if you hold the pressure on the dome as it cools excess solder will be squeezed out and improve heat sinking. Just clean off the excess. I hold the board in little wooden soft jaws in a vice for insulation.
    There are only three types of people in this world. Those that can count, and those that can't!

  2. #32
    Member Beavis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R93 View Post
    To put it bluntly, They (maxtoch) make them look like overpriced pieces of shit tbh.

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  3. #33
    .270 for the win logesearle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadgetman View Post
    I use a hot air attachment on a gas soldering iron and heat for about 20-30 seconds. As is heats I press down on the dome with a hollow ground jewellers screwdriver; this tests the softness and when soft enough the edges of the dome lift off the die. Then a gentle lift on the edge opposite the fine connecting wires inside sees the dome just pop off. The solder melting is not an issue as if you hold the pressure on the dome as it cools excess solder will be squeezed out and improve heat sinking. Just clean off the excess. I hold the board in little wooden soft jaws in a vice for insulation.
    Right... Do you have (or know where I can easily get) new LED's if it goes wrong?

  4. #34
    .270 for the win logesearle's Avatar
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    And could a soldering iron be sufficient heating?

  5. #35
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    I found that my soldering iron couldn't get the heat in quick enough, it is a fairly fine tip. I have a supply of LEDs.
    There are only three types of people in this world. Those that can count, and those that can't!

  6. #36
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    LR - if you want to buy batts get some off trademe to get started - though they are double the price in NZ. Then maybe order some more from FastTech or Maxtoch and they will come out by surface shipping which is about 2 months. No quick overseas buy for the lithium-ion 18650 batts as they need special safety conditions for international freighting.

  7. #37
    L.R
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    That makes sence. Cheers mate.

  8. #38
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    anderset20 - your Nitecore P-25 Smilodon torch will be ok as a hunter light but only just. It is quite expensive at $70-100US but has low output. Here is its site spec:

    " Boasts a peak beam intensity of 20,000cd and a throw distance of up to 283 meters"

    This not a performance we'd boast at all - its 1/4 the output of the Maxtoch M24, and 1/6th the output of the 2X for similar price.

    Nitcore make good stuff but not really high-performance lights - more all-purpose outdoor stuff. These particular Maxtochs are kiwi hunter designed lights, hot-rodded for big output but still reliable and very well made. Way better value and performance.

    Nitecore alright but best bet is ask gadget if he can dedome it for you - its an XML led and should bump up to maybe 40-45k lux. By comparison M24 dedomed is about 170-180k lux.

  9. #39
    .270 for the win logesearle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadgetman View Post
    I found that my soldering iron couldn't get the heat in quick enough, it is a fairly fine tip. I have a supply of LEDs.
    Ok I only have a skinny soldering iron so scrap that idea.
    Could I let the led heat up by leaving it running for a while? Would it get hot enough?

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by logesearle View Post
    Ok I only have a skinny soldering iron so scrap that idea.
    Could I let the led heat up by leaving it running for a while? Would it get hot enough?
    I didn't think that LED's generated heat.
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  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by logesearle View Post
    Ok I only have a skinny soldering iron so scrap that idea.
    Could I let the led heat up by leaving it running for a while? Would it get hot enough?
    Yes, quite a lot of guys do it that way. Check out youtube.
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  12. #42
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    could I buy a bulb from you already de-domed??
    "Sine Metu"

  13. #43
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    Awesome thanks @mudgripz for that. Looks like I'm after a dedomed M24 or 2X then, do you think it's even worth getting my P25 dedomed?


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  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gapped axe View Post
    could I buy a bulb from you already de-domed??
    It needs to be shipped in place inside the head of a torch. A de-domed LED is very fragile. The replacement would need to be re-flowed onto the LED carrier board and is best de-domed just after the solder takes.
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  15. #45
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    Sorry if posted elsewhere but I have read near all posts

    Do the m24 and 2x work with protected cell 18650 batteries, or only the slightly shorter unprotected?

 

 

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