Thread: Securing an E-cat safe...

Hi all,
I have a small dilema in how best to fix my new e-cat safe.
The cupboard I have chosen, the only one in the house (that i am allowed anyway...) has a false back wall as that forms a back wall of another cupboard on the other side.
Hence this is no good to attach to as its only ~16mm thick board.
The side wall has some framing behind the jib, but the safe will be a short distance from the wall due to the bottom wooden edge etc...

Can i just use timber packers, or should i remove the bottom bit and the shelving runners to get the safe hard against the wall?

Or should i do something more elaborate and build a proper wall in the back, and attache there, will save drilling a couple of holes in the safe side, but need to make a new wall...

Thanks.

I have used packers in the past, the inspector just asked that I put a bit of trim in to stop a tool fitting into the gap.
If I was to do it again I would just get rid or the bit at the bottom

so , what I did was add some 18mm thick ply in the back of the closet and screwd it into the studs , and just screwed the safe onto that , its only to stop thieving scum from pulling on it and using it as a lever to break your bottom bolts ..... for the bottom I welded up a large section of angle iron that spanned at least two floor joists under the hosue (stops the thieving scum from chainsawing it out easily) , and bolted the safe to end and welded the bolts as well ...... mine is a b and e safe , ... and the vetting officer was happy with it

I guess you can do the same on the side of the closet , ... say goodbye to the skirting in there , so the safe goes hard against the wall , good luck

Im not sure how the AO requires you to fix an E-cat safe and ypu should obviously do it how he wants but we have moved away from fixing our free standing electrical equipment to the walls due to engineers saying in a seismic event the floor and wall move independtly and having them fixed just shakes itself free instead of just riding the wave on the deck.

In any case a flat bar behind the baseboard will pop it right off instead of messing around with packers.

Thanks guys,
If the back wall had studs it would be easy, but i think i will remove all the bits on the side as you say incluing the skirting and fix thru' there...

May also need to fit a bit of heavy ply as you did as i just checked the front stud only protudes a little bit into the cupboard and is not really sound enough to bolt to, good old 100 year old house.

Once its in i will drill through the floor and hopefully not go through any plumbing and then need to do my SAS impersonation and crawl under the house, yey!
I will look at using angle iron as well from what you mentioned stumpy.
Grant.

Originally Posted by JRW87

Im not sure how the AO requires you to fix an E-cat safe and ypu should obviously do it how he wants but we have moved away from fixing our free standing electrical equipment to the walls due to engineers saying in a seismic event the floor and wall move independtly and having them fixed just shakes itself free instead of just riding the wave on the deck.
.

That's a very interesting point, unfortunately it does have to be secured on two or more surfaces

I have the same prblem. If the door will still open, (hahahaha almost an oopsie) hard against the wall is best, or I'd get a sheet of 18mm thick 1800x600pine from Bunnings and have all of that and not packers.

The inspector would also require spreader plates I expect? my one wanted to see pics of these at the very least, he's 60 odd and didnt want to crawl 15m under the house to look!

yeh, i will take photos of every thing i do, so they to dont need to do a rambo under the house etc...

this is the frame I made to satisfy the rquirements , it doesn't have to be a solid plate , this is fine (for my AO anyway)
I am happy to show the internet world my fixing for my safe , .... come on over and steal it if you want ...

Good frame and good setup

"it doesn't have to be a solid plate"

I asked my AO on that as I was going to use 6mm x50mm angle iron and he said no he wanted a solid plate, so everyone should check with their AO.

as @steven said , best to ask your AO ... I rang mine , he said no problem to angle iron ..... others are different .

I will give the Auckland Central a call and see what they say tomorrow.

In the end i have decided to build a very solid back wall, and tie that into the house, and line it with thick ply. Will fix it and build it like a brick shit house!
This is beacuse after trial fitting the safe tonight it will offer the best position for access, due to door opening and hinge position etc.

Not looking forward to the under house crawl this weekend.

Well i made a new wall from 4x2, probably will never get a job as a carpenter but its fairly solid.
The two main places were the safe is secured to on the wall i doubled up on the 4x2 to make some solid beams.
Lined it with 16mm MDF, as the ply was very expensive from bunnings...
Used a milloin screws and nails, so should not go anywhere!

Safe secured to beams with 4x 10mm x90mm coach screws.

Next job is rambo mission under the house for the two floor fixings, looking forward to it...

Ok another question, and I Guess the local AO should answer it, but they seem to be hard to get hold of, though have also dropped them an email...
Anyway...

I have drillded the two floor holes, and one is a direct hit in the middle of a 6x2 joist.
Q: Do i have to drill through so BOTH bolts go into the steel plate i intend to fit, or would one be sufficient?

(The steel plate will be adjacent to a Pile and another joist, so will not be able to be turned etc, and no doubt i will fit a few more coach bolts for fun...)

The police form does not mention the number of bolts, only it must be fixed on two sides, but it does say 'Through' bolted.

Mine is in a cupboard