303 question

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Originally Posted by TeRei

Like the man says. This dude knows what he talking about. Only FLS. I used old brass but found it was essential to anneal before sizing. It was tricky getting the sweet spot on adjusting the die. Thats said the loaded brass chambered well. Reckon each rifle would be different. Spent a huge amount cleaning up the bolt.Did not get to fully dismantle despite having the tool from our man in Kaiapoi. The cleaned bolt made a huge difference as in dragging to semi glass. Sheets of 2k WnD. 2C. It is a unique case to load but rewarding.

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With you on the annealing. For me, loading fatter cast bullets, it was the answer to 1940s CAC brass splitting necks 3 days after loading. Annealed they keep on keeping on well enough. 5-6 reloads and necks are ok, heads suspect. Neck sizing not going to save you from head separation I suspect..Full noise loads you would be doing well to get half a doz reloads. Shooting cast at lower velocities, lower powder charge, 1600-1800fps = good killing ability out to limits of accuracy (120m my old girls) and more reloads. Better brass might help more. I anneal after x2 firings, by hand with propane torch, case spinning via drill with Lee chuck attachment and shell holder..not too scientific but works for me.

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Originally Posted by Jhon

With you on the annealing. For me, loading fatter cast bullets, it was the answer to 1940s CAC brass splitting necks 3 days after loading. Annealed they keep on keeping on well enough. 5-6 reloads and necks are ok, heads suspect. Neck sizing not going to save you from head separation I suspect..Full noise loads you would be doing well to get half a doz reloads. Shooting cast at lower velocities, lower powder charge, 1600-1800fps = good killing ability out to limits of accuracy (120m my old girls) and more reloads. Better brass might help more. I anneal after x2 firings, by hand with propane torch, case spinning via drill with Lee chuck attachment and shell holder..not too scientific but works for me.

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I anneal every time. All brass. Never skip this step. Got rid of the gorilla years ago. I SSM wash all brass every time. Funnily enough the tightest group I have seen came from a Forum member who used some of my ammo to print a tiny tiny group at 100m. Better gun, better skill. Who knows but it was wicked to see the target. LOL.

well this has been very informative thanks one and all fl sizing for me I think as I only have one 303 as an occasional shooter many thanks

Mr Cod,
It's easy enough to neck size - you simply unscrew your FL die out until your just sizing the neck. (If you want to check you can put a line of felt tip on the neck and see how much you are sizing.

Jaco Goosen spells it out - it is better to neck size the .303: This way your brass will last much longer.

I neck size mine and always have, I give cases a full length size once they get a little stiff to chamber - but only pushing the shoulder enough to chamber. Actually I do that with a lot of cartridges. People used to say that neck sizing cases was more accurate, but I have never noticed any difference. But the brass lasts longer. Shooting and full-length sizing wears out brass.

Brass shot in one rifle and then neck sized should be kept with that rifle. There is a fair chance that it will not fit another Lee Enfield due to the great variety of chamber sizes in these rifles.

If you have more than one Lee Enfield rifle and wish to use the same ammo in your different rifles, you will have to full length size; you are making the cases to the minimum common size to fit all of them. in this case you will be working your brass harder for obvious reasons.