Thread: Another suppressor question

Do they both have the same sized hole on them

Originally Posted by DELTA NZ

100% agree. What's the easiest way to get it to group without going through load development again?

I don't think you can I have 2 different brands and had to redo load development as each one liked a different load.
It's no different to changing bullets or powder.

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Just out of curiosity. Why do you want to run 2 different cans?. If one works well just use that one. Or, Sell the other one and replace it with a duplicate of the one that works?

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Originally Posted by zeropak

I don't think Harmonics would make that much difference. There's something else going on with that barrel forward suppressor. Not sure what, Maybe alignment, I know you said there was no bullet contact with the suppressor but in my experience even restricted travel can cause muzzle blast to upset the projectile.

Ever done load development?

what causes some loads to do cloverleavs while others don't even remotely group?

same thing. harmonics.

A suppressor adds a large mass at the end of the muzzle. changing that mass will have a large effect. It then comes down to how large your particular accuracy node is.

Originally Posted by DELTA NZ

100% agree. What's the easiest way to get it to group without going through load development again?

just using the one suppressor that shoots.

If you feel like tinkering around give the other one a good clean.

Pad under the barrel at the tip of the foreend - experimenting with different locations and different pad thickness (changing the amount of upward pressure and the location of it) can reduce the gap. But in this case, one option works rather well so if that does it for you why stuff with it?

Although it would be interesting to note the grouping with the cans off - and see what the difference is. It could well have some form of bedding dislike given that the heavier option improves things over lighter or the action screw tension or stock stability could be factors. There's lots that could contribute to this, how much ammo do you want to burn up and how many notebooks do you want to fill up experimenting which is really the only way to get a handle on whats going on.

we had a new 243 suppressor that had one baffle in it that was smaller than the others It didnt contact the bullet but it did upset it and make it group like a shotgun
the suppressor maker dropped a drill bit down the end that was .5mm bigger than the projectile to demonstrate that it would fall thru all the way and was very surprised when it stopped half way haha

Found the issue. Cheers everyone for the help.

After closer inspection, found that the projectile was ever so slightly touching the suppressor on the inside. Very disappointing as this is a very expensive suppressor.

Please update us when it's been fixed....hopefully maker will do so ASAP for you

Hi all to be fair on the suppressor maker when you fitted the suppressors to your barrel
were they done as a match set ie barrel off in a good lathe and thread /face checked [runout etc ] and the same with the supp. on
if aligned right to the best one can do then a tighter tolerance [smaller hole inside supp ] can be used
even then a to small amount of clearance will affect out come
Aim Small Miss Small

Originally Posted by DELTA NZ

Found the issue. Cheers everyone for the help.

After closer inspection, found that the projectile was ever so slightly touching the suppressor on the inside. Very disappointing as this is a very expensive suppressor.

So a few things to check, before you necessarily jump on the suppressor.

The thread on the muzzle is quite often the biggest variable.

Is the thread in good condition.
Is it perfectly true to the bore.
How wide is the shoulder that the suppressor screws up against (I like to have 1mm min, so 2mm more than thread diameter)
Is the face of the shoulder clean, a bit of crap or a bur can tip the can.
Is the crown good.

So now to the suppressors

Does the one which is playing up have a smaller bore than the other, if so it might well be that both are tipped slightly but just the tighter one shows it.
Are both rear over barrel end caps a good clearance on the outside of the barrel, I have many barrel offcuts here (from established brands) where the bore is over 1mm eccentric to the O/D, so if the rear over barrel end cap is tight it will tip the can.
Are the barrel to suppressor shoulder faces clean in both suppressors, if not again you can tip the can.

So just a few ideas to look at.

Cheers

Darren