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Hey guys
As above, anyone loading 45 ACP? Looking at a Lee pro 1000 to make things go a bit quicker. I'm already loading for rifle cartridges but haven't done any straight wall cartridges.
Will likely invest in a tumbler to make things a bit easier on the dies. The cheaper I can make it, the more I will shoot.
Suitable powder? Prefer adi as supply should be reliable.
Cartridge overall length- I'll buy a box or two of factory stuff to start and match that.
Any curve balls to look out for?
I use a 230gn cast round nose over as30 something like 3.5 grains ish. As50 works ok as would aps350 or aps450. a progressive press is the go, unless you're retired and have nothing better to do
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I've been loading 45ACP since 2005. Started with Dillon 500B. 3 Pro1000 presses have come my way. One in bits I rebuilt, one in well used condition. One hardly used. They all did the job after a fashion. I'll irritate someone telling you they really suck compared to the Dillon. I'd sooner load on a Lee 3 hole or 4 hole turret than a Pro 1000. I could never get past 50 loads before having to tear it down and clean powder out of the system to get the primer feed working again. Their biggest weakness...powder leaking from the measure or jumping out of cases as the rattle and roll on the case plate every pull of the handle. Yet I know a guy who ran 7 of them for years. If you're buying new, the latest, they may have improved. Others will speak to that. But you rarely if ever hear someone speak ill of the Dillon in comparison. That's all I use now, for years. Just saying. If you're not loading thousands consider the Lee 4 hole classic cast press. The auto advance works seamlessly, unlike the old 3 hole which most folk run on manual advance. If you get a Pro 1000 I suggest you follow Lee's instructions meticulously. And read a lot of online reviews first. Good luck. Report back.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rated M for Magnum
As to load data, just follow the published data, manual or online. No big deal. 1911A platform can be fussy. Find out online what others like for your particular firearm. The gold test is that it shoots factory. If you're having probs with reloads, go back to factory before messing with the gun. If it shoots factory then look to your load. If you go for light loads you will need to match the spring. Good mags are critical. Beware doing ramp jobs, first place to bugger a 1911s functioning..Next place is the sear. Many a gun ruined by home DIY sear jobs. If suspect put a new factory one on. Most critical thing with reloads is first bullet profile then C.O.L..these are the heart of feed issues. A small difference in C.O.L. might be the difference between flawless and constant stopping. A gun might be fine with SWC bullets or or might only like ball. Change one thing at a time. Current models may well be world better than older. I have a new Kimber and it is better than my old timer..But it's still fussy. YMMV.
@Davecbnz@Quote:
Originally Posted by Davecbnz
11 years and only 59 posts?
Jesus Christ man, that level of restraint is impressive
I should reply, but I have restraint.Quote:
Originally Posted by 308
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Thanks for that @Jhon
Very informative post. I'm not going to be loading huge quantities, I think I should be able to get it running ok. I can't see me investing in the big ticket gear at this point.
For a Dillon, that's a serious amount of ammo bought for the same price.
A curve ball to watch out for is if your loading fir a 1911, make sure to check that they drop into the barrel. Not as big of a problem with jacketed, but can be with cast.
I'm using Action Pistol currently and will go to titegroup once the action pistol runs out.