Thread: Beginner reloader setup

Whats the plan for priming?

Hand primer?
Hammer and punch?

In 57 years of handloading I have only ever had a one case stuck in a die.
That was after 9-11 when aerosols and anything solvent based couldn't be shipped.
I foolishly tried a water based spray lube and immediately had my first ever stuck case.
I was able to remove it by drilling out the primer pocket, taping the hole, and using a bolt and a small socket as a spacer.

Here is an example. I used a 1/4" whitworth tap and a 3/16" drill. But metric eq will work fine.

My one ever stuck case jacked out easily. Cannot remember if I held the die in a vice, proabaly did.
Recently did a case removal for a mate. Dunno what he had done but I had to really heave on the allen key. I thought I was going to rip the thread out of the case. Classic lack of lube or incorrect "lube".

RCBS chargemaster in the buy sell section. Pretty good price for mint condition model. Plenty accurate enough for the average user.

Tacitus hasnt mentioned his budget

Originally Posted by Tacitus

I'm looking at getting into reloading, and these are some main bits that I'm thinking about getting and their approximate costs:

Lee hand press ($150)
Lee Carbide dies ($90)
Frankford Arsenal DS-750 Digital Scale ($115)
Frankford Arsenal powder trickler ($70)
Lyman case prep multi tool ($80)
Lee cutter & lock stud and case length gague w/ Shellholder ($40)
Hornady Digital Caliper ($110)

What do you all think about the components mentioned above?
Are there certain items where I could get something better for a similar or slightly higher price?

Have a look at Lee Breech Lock Challenger Kit Reloading Kit at Gunworks.
It would get you going with the addition of the dies you'd need.
https://www.gunworks.co.nz/shop/item...ding-kit-90030

Just a thought on measuring devices such as verniers and scales, you will pay a premium price for any tool that is related to reloading companies. The same device without the name association will work just as well.

Both methods of removing stuck cases.

https://youtu.be/EFW9URitdAU?si=VinGjv-QJnQ-IgHi

And, yes, you pay a premium for brand names.

Ive seen on youtube thede FLS 308 OK. Not sure about life span tho.

Here you go, 30.06.
https://youtu.be/Y7tjDJQop-w?si=IEmJhMX_dndCJFEJ

All that stuff you have listed will get you going the only thing id change is get a press. Never had a stuck case in my life and I usually use that lee case lube that everyone complains about dunno what I'm doing wrong there.

Some of the higher priced dies have tighter tolerences, and some lubes are better than others, I have got the odd case stuck.
Recently showing a mate how good my press is, a torret press set up for the two calibours I loaded a 223 with a 308 case holder. was able to show how to remove a stuck case.

Since you are starting reloading and also high power calibers, may I suggest a few things.

1. Get the Lyman manual and read the early chapters 3 times. You need to understand the variables of pressure, velocity, case capacity, powder charge, bullet weight etc. This is complex and exponential. BE SAFE.
2. Get the Hornady headspace and bullet seating comparator. It will help size cases and seat bullets accurately and repeatably. I cannot praise the merits of this tool enough. It completely eliminates so many errors that can creep up in reloading. Get the case sizing, case length trim and bullet seating right first time and you have high quality ammo every time.
3. Nothing wrong with Lee gear. Ignore the people who rubbish Lee. Lee products used to be very popular with target shooters
4. You don't need a powder tickler. My Hornady is virtually unused for 15 years. You can have it for $15 and shipping
5. I use a cheap $30 digital scale that I check with the Ohaus balance beam regularly. Makes reloading real easy