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DPT Reloaders


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Thread: Best brass for relaoding

  1. #16
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    Sticking to one brand eliminates a variable. There can be large differences in alloys used giving different neck tensions, spring back, sizing force. If later on your want to anneal, then you don't have to much around with different settings every time a different piece of brass goes through the machine.

    When we talk about hunting ammo, people's acceptable levels are different. I want the most consistent ammo possible and keeping to one brand is a good start, as long as it's good quality.

    It just helps keep it simple.

  2. #17
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    That's a good question. I suppose what i am looking for is consistency. What i am enjoying about reloading is being able to find the recipe works best for my gun and being able to replicate it consistently. So the characteristics that i am looking for is brass that will be durable, maintain good neck tension and help me maintain consistency. Im not interested in mixing brands as mentioned before as i feel it adds an unnecessary variable to the process and if i am going to buy some cases i might as well try and keep them the same.

  3. #18
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    Depending on what rifle, bullet, and range you're shooting, and how you measure precision or consistency - you may not see any real improvement in actual results on target with premium brass.

    You are likely to see brass life improvements though, depending on your loading practises, and the cost premium often isn't that bad, unless you have access to lots of 1x fired factory brass.
    Micky Duck and JoshBadger like this.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldbloke View Post
    Is not mixing that critical for hunting?

    I weighed a few diff brands a while back and apart from S&B case weight were all fairly close. Not same as capacity, I know.
    Just something I've always done. Might make a difference when your loading hot rounds, which we have all done when we started then realized that hot is not always best
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshBadger View Post
    That's a good question. I suppose what i am looking for is consistency. What i am enjoying about reloading is being able to find the recipe works best for my gun and being able to replicate it consistently. So the characteristics that i am looking for is brass that will be durable, maintain good neck tension and help me maintain consistency. Im not interested in mixing brands as mentioned before as i feel it adds an unnecessary variable to the process and if i am going to buy some cases i might as well try and keep them the same.
    Consistency is called annealing.

  6. #21
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    My big concern with mixing brass is to do with case volume.
    Case volume affects pressure etc.
    I'm not looking for supper accuracy in my hunting rifle so I don't get would up over neck tension etc as long as the bullets stay seated.

    If you are only loading at the bottom of then load range then not a problem.
    If you are loading up towards the max stated load then case volume becomes an issue.

    I have 308 win brass necked to 358 and Starline 358 brass. With the same powder weight the Win brass is filled to the base of the neck while the starline is half way up the neck.
    This is still 1 gr under book max.
    Z

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by gimp View Post
    Makes zero difference for hunting ammo
    Like, don't do it though. But don't be too precious about handloads for hunting.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeRei View Post
    Consistency is called annealing.
    What difference on target can you see?

  9. #24
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    So to define hunting ammunition.... Able to hit inside 8" out to 300 yards ...... Would that be a fair summation???
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    So to define hunting ammunition.... Able to hit inside 8" out to 300 yards ...... Would that be a fair summation???
    Not if you want to shoot game at 400 yards.
    Experience. What you get just after you needed it.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    So to define hunting ammunition.... Able to hit inside 8" out to 300 yards ...... Would that be a fair summation???
    I define "hunting ammunition" as being good enough to hit A4 printer page at your chosen maximum distance with 100% certainty every shot.
    BRADS, Shearer, Ross Nolan and 2 others like this.
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shearer View Post
    Not if you want to shoot game at 400 yards.
    I don't.... But at 400 that would still be a 12" group??? No good on fallow hind,but broadside red....maybe.
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  13. #28
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    Oh and there is NOTHING stopping you having half dozen fancy pants rounds in top pocket if your 300 plus shot presents itself....
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    So to define hunting ammunition.... Able to hit inside 8" out to 300 yards ...... Would that be a fair summation???
    For how many shots how frequently

  15. #30
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    I mainly use mixed brass in .223.
    You quickly learn what brass to avoid with a given load cos you will get the odd popped primer or high pressure sign. They will be the thicker/lower capacity brands. I take those brands out of the mix. ADI does it with my pet load in one rifle (.223).

    My accuracy is I seldom miss a deer or wallabies kill zone out to as far as I want to shoot.
    Nathan F and Micky Duck like this.
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