Carbon at the muzzle

Ok!
This is an experiment as far as chemical goes.
I have read alot about CLR, the good the bad and the ugly.
At least with a bore scope you have no doubt about what's going on and working and not working.
I have used CLR before on a stubborn carbon ring on my trusty 308.
I tried alot of other stuff with out mechanical intervention but the CLR on the brush and drill got rid of it very quickly with out question.
They say to use CLR very carefully which I have!
I think the before and after photos do the talking.
I havnt tried carb out on the drill yet but that is next clean!
Any way the bore scope is arguably one of the best tools I have ever bought!Attachment 275721Attachment 275722Attachment 275723https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ad5d93aac4.jpg

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Jb borepaste is not bad either or the new cameleon gel from boretech if you want something more gentle.

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Originally Posted by Friwi

Jb borepaste is not bad either or the new cameleon gel from boretech if you want something more gentle.

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Ive used those too and been happy with them. JB really makes the bore feel smooth after all chemicals and brushes have done their best.

AA do we know whats in CLR ?

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Originally Posted by Bagheera

Ive used those too and been happy with them. JB really makes the bore feel smooth after all chemicals and brushes have done their best.

AA do we know whats in CLR ?

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I have been doing a heap of research about effect on barrel steel but not whats in it.
According to an email that was awnserd by the makers it's fine to use on every thing except mild steel.
All I know is it's quick and painless and works.
I had been mucking around with other chemicals soaking and not getting any head way so pretty happy with it!
It almost looks that it has left a little bit of copper in the lands to be fair as had a slight orange tinge

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I know what I’ll use next time!


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CLR is lactic acid afaik.

Bartlein (?) did a test with it, it does corrode stainless if left for too long (24h).

Boretech carbon remover is another one that gets carbon out, including carbon rings. never saw the need to use clr inside a barrel.

CLR is excellent for cleaning stainless dpt baffles though.

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Originally Posted by STC

CLR is lactic acid afaik.

Bartlein (?) did a test with it, it does corrode stainless if left for too long (24h).

Boretech carbon remover is another one that gets carbon out, including carbon rings. never saw the need to use clr inside a barrel.

CLR is excellent for cleaning stainless dpt baffles though.

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I have no patience!
It was only in there 2 minutes to be fair

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Originally Posted by Friwi

Jb borepaste is not bad either or the new cameleon gel from boretech if you want something more gentle.

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another vote for JB bore paste, very quick and easy.

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Originally Posted by andyanimal31

I have no patience!
It was only in there 2 minutes to be fair

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Be carefull with that kind of sentence taken out of its context, you might disappoint a few ladies ;-)

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surprised you did use some #8 wire to apply it

Ive used CLR after seeing Cortina using it.
It works brilliantly without polishing/abraision like the Jb bore paste (which i also use). CLR and a bronze brush in a drill is my 'go to' for removing carbon in the neck and throat of the bore. Jb bore paste might polish that area too much judging by my experience of it and checking with a borescope the results.

Just like any chemical you have to use it correctly! As noted by Erik Cortina, you must flush it out thoroughly with alcohol or methylated spirits. This is easy, use the clr to remove the carbon, push a dry patch through, then two wet meths patches followed by a dry patch, job done. Remember that the bore with be very clean and prone to moisture so definitely lightly oil (i prefer 'crc longlife' - it way outlasts gunoils in a finer coating) to finish.

Welcome to the club @andyanimal31 :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by Roarless20

Ive used CLR after seeing Cortina using it.
It works brilliantly without polishing/abraision like the Jb bore paste (which i also use). CLR and a bronze brush in a drill is my 'go to' for removing carbon in the neck and throat of the bore. Jb bore paste might polish that area too much judging by my experience of it and checking with a borescope the results.

Just like any chemical you have to use it correctly! As noted by Erik Cortina, you must flush it out thoroughly with alcohol or methylated spirits. This is easy, use the clr to remove the carbon, push a dry patch through, then two wet meths patches followed by a dry patch, job done. Remember that the bore with be very clean and prone to moisture so definitely lightly oil (i prefer 'crc longlife' - it way outlasts gunoils in a finer coating) to finish.

Welcome to the club @andyanimal31 [emoji106]

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Just did a bit of reading about crc long life.
Nathan Foster endorses it.
I was thinking as long as there's nothing in it that reacts when you pull the trigger as far as a chemical reaction with fire and steel!
I usually just spray rem oil onto a bore snake at the bristle end after I have been shooting to get all the loose shit out and leave a fine oil coating for a bit of protection.
I'm of to Wangas today so will invest in a can.
Any thing that saves time and works I am into!


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Yip it works a treat the boretech carbon remover iv found a good preventative but not so good after the fact in the case of stubborn rings

Ive often wondered if this would workAttachment 275817

Went and scored a can of this, even recommended for firearms.
Tried 3 shops and only bunnings had it.
Just trying to stop any corrosion in my barrels at all ax the border scope tells the truth!Attachment 275882

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by andyanimal31

Went and scored a can of this, even recommended for firearms.
Tried 3 shops and only bunnings had it.
Just trying to stop any corrosion in my barrels at all ax the border scope tells the truth!Attachment 275882

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Been using it for years, good stuff :cool:

Does anybody use this for Carbon and Copper removal ? Works well for me and I like the liquid formulation as I find it much more convenient saturating a patch compared to pastes.
I do flush out residue with a couple of Meths soaked patches but even dry patching is probably as effective, almost.

Attachment 275888

I am starting to used the cameleon from boretech, it is a gel paste that does also a very light polishing as well. But that kg2 thing might be good as well.