Thread: Case base separation

Reckon all cases do this eventually if reloaded enough times. I got some Norma Re 308 cases, a few of which have suffered case head separations. No idea how many times they’ve been reloaded. I check all my 308 cases with a straightened split pin with small right-angle bend at end sharpened to a point. Easy to feel internal case thinning. Guess plenty of others do similar.

With more modern case designs it is less of a problem, same as case length growth requiring trimming

Originally Posted by gimp

With more modern case designs it is less of a problem, same as case length growth requiring trimming

Maybe, but brass or any metal under pressure behaves like liquid and flows in direction of least resistance. Case body towards muzzle, primers/case base into firing pin hole/extractor slots etc.

Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings,
Granted that @Bagheera may have posted his photo for our enjoyment and education perhaps some more of the same might be appropriate from an old codger.
Over the last 50 years I have learnt several things about handloading so here is a lazy mans approach to sizing and case prep.
Loads for my old soldiers have loads that are light enough to only never need FL sizing. .303 cases are neck sized in a Lee Loader and have a .303 expander button run in and out of the neck. .30-40 Krag cases are neck sized in a .308 neck die with only half the neck sized. 6.5x55 cases are neck sized in an old 6.5x55 neck sizing die. None of these dies oversize the neck.
Loads for most of the other rifles are FL sized using the Redding competition shell holders to get minimal shoulder set back and easy chambering. Early on I used to neck size these loads but have now abandoned that after problems with hard chambering. I did tinker with partial sizing using a FL sizing die but ran into problems with the less tapered cases like the .308. For more tapered cases it may work after a fashion for some but I abandoned it. The partial sizing can move the shoulder forward and create its own set of problems.
I anneal my cases using a candle. I hear the howls over this already but there is a technique to it and for me it works well. The biggest problem with annealing is getting the same level of annealing on all cases. The AMP annealers rightly get top marks for this but I have yet to take the plunge. Cases are trimmed every load.
All of this is work in progress and some new bits of kit may appear on the bench over time, perhaps some of the Redding FL bushing dies for some of my target rifles. Time will tell.
Regards Grandpamac.

The science says a candle won't work. Needs to reach 425 - 800c. That's dark blue to dull red.

Don't take my word for it. Check out the experts.

https://www.australwright.com.au/tec...90-10-gilding/

If you don't have a gas torch, a gas stove might do the trick.

And, it's pretty hard to over anneal the brass.

https://youtu.be/9HfjRKrbYbo?si=xM4MPbuU1mpXZAfT