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Thread: Full Length or Neck sizing. What is better and why?

  1. #31
    Member zimmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tikka7mm08 View Post
    PS - I've also been looking late at case trimming. I realised my 280AI cases had grown significantly and confess I hadn't batched them so there is inconsistency in case length now. Internet says this makes no real difference to accuracy - may be for hunting loads but I'm not so sure about trying to fine turn an accurate load...different neck tension/resistance? I've now trimmed cases so they are all uniform and feel better having done it.
    Strange that your cases have grown significantly. I have a 6.5x55AI which I run HOT, that I have never had an issue with cases growing in length. In fact I used to anguish about their lengths as they are still shorter than optimum as per my reamer drawing. One of the beauties of the Ackley shoulder is it resists brass flow to an extent.

    Your Kimber (well, from my experience the Montana) is very easy to remove the firing pin/striker/spring assembly so that you can try FLSd cases for bolt closure feel without the influence of the main spring. Yes, it is a position you put the Safety in to remove it's guts. Cannot remember exactly, it's a few years since I did it on a mate's rifle.

  2. #32
    Member zimmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyclops View Post
    I'm a minimalist reloader, I do a little as possible and as much as necessary.
    Brilliant statement. It's also where I've got to in my reloading.
    Over the years I've eliminated all non value adding steps eg intense brass cleaning.
    Tried things and if they didn't give any gain I stopped doing them.
    Varmit Hunter and caberslash like this.

  3. #33
    Member Tikka7mm08's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zimmer View Post
    Strange that your cases have grown significantly. I have a 6.5x55AI which I run HOT, that I have never had an issue with cases growing in length. In fact I used to anguish about their lengths as they are still shorter than optimum as per my reamer drawing. One of the beauties of the Ackley shoulder is it resists brass flow to an extent.

    Your Kimber (well, from my experience the Montana) is very easy to remove the firing pin/striker/spring assembly so that you can try FLSd cases for bolt closure feel without the influence of the main spring. Yes, it is a position you put the Safety in to remove it's guts. Cannot remember exactly, it's a few years since I did it on a mate's rifle.
    Yes I agree, although these cases are quite old...my 260AI brass was like yours. Really keen to see if the Redding comp dies remove need for body die.

  4. #34
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    Oh hell, I thought this might be a rabbit hole, but it's turned out to be a rabbit warren
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  5. #35
    Member zimmer's Avatar
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    Mate, this has been a topic on forums for years and years, and nowadays on YouTube.
    It never reaches a conclusive end.
    It has tended to swing more towards FLSing of recent years although I imagine some will not agree with that statement.
    Rich007, Tikka7mm08, 6x47 and 4 others like this.

  6. #36
    Member Tikka7mm08's Avatar
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    Tonight tried comp shellholders to FL size and chamber. Normal shellholder requires body die after FL die and then chambers easily.

    First removed firing pin and this is done by cocking the bolt then putting it position 2 on the safety. Remove bolt and unwind firing pin assembly. A lot easier than any other bolt action I have had.

    First of all I tried the normal shell holder FL die and no body die to remind me how hard it is to chamber.

    Then I started with SH #0.010 and FL sizing followed by a chamber. I got to the last SH of 5 available thinking this was a waste of time as although small improvement the 0.04 still was a firm bolt closure. Tried the last 0.02 shellholder and the bolt closed perfectly with no friction same as closing without a case chambered.

    This means no extra step of running all the cases through the body die and the brass is being worked the minimum amount required. Very happy.



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  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by zimmer View Post
    Mate, this has been a topic on forums for years and years, and nowadays on YouTube.
    It never reaches a conclusive end.
    It has tended to swing more towards FLSing of recent years although I imagine some will not agree with that statement.
    Greetings zimmer and All,
    I recently switched to FL sizing from neck sizing for most of my handloading. The reason was to get a more constant fit between case and chamber. The exceptions are some of my old soldiers that get light loads and neck sized cased. These seldom, if ever, need FL sizing. My son, who shoots FTR, Full length sizes everything and anneals every load and I am gradually catching up with him. If we are being honest we neck sized to get better life from our cases and perhaps better accuracy. The latter is often disputed. Today with better tolerances and kit we can get the same results with minimal FL sizing. Just recently I have noted that two makes of 6.5x55 FL dies set the shoulder back excessively. I suspect that this may be a mismatch between Scandinavian and US chamber dimensions and wonder if others have had this experience.
    Regards Grandpamac.

  8. #38
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    All very helpful info here fellas! Really appreciate your knowledge and help.
    Cheers

  9. #39
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    Does anyone know where to get redding competition shell holders?
    Cheers Paul

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulT View Post
    Does anyone know where to get redding competition shell holders?
    Cheers Paul
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  11. #41
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    I FLS and shoulder bump the norm. But the thing i know i should try but havent is to leave the necks un-trimmed and no de-burr inside or out. I heard a rumour this results in lower ES... i hope this is wrong. Seriously.

  12. #42
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    Hard to fathom. No internal deburring with produce variably scratched projectiles which can't help. No neck trimming will eventually lead to projectile crimping that will up pressures. Who would want to go there?

  13. #43
    Gone................. mikee's Avatar
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    I have become "a less is more reloader".
    After making the brass initially
    Originally I would clean, trim, chamfer, anneal, neck turn, ream inside necks, neck size and body die when necessary, clean primer pockets and hand prime, weigh every charge twice blah blah blah.
    Got 13+ reloads out of last 50 new brass and still going.
    Goal was 3 consecutive hits on a 4 inch wide x 6 inch high plate @ 1005m consistently ie each visit.

    New barrel and new brass and after initial case forming (6.5SAUM or GAP if you prefer)
    Anneal every 5 loads, clean brass full lenght size and load. Same goal and was achieved so now I don't bother with all the fannying about.
    I trim when necessary

    I guess if trying to get them thru the same whole it would be different.

    For my 6.5TCU I load on the RL550B, I dry lube the inside necks of 223 brass, lube the cases well and neck it up on the first stage with the FL Die and loaded rounds come off the shell plate.
    3 consecutive hits on a 4 inch plate at 535m was/is the goal.


    Less time loading and more time shooting, whats not to like

 

 

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