Printable View
Hi guys
I've just been tumbling some of my once fired cases. They've been going 2 hours and they still look like this. Usually an hour and they are good to go. Only difference I can think of is this is a new load with W760 instead of my usual AR2209. Could W760 be harder to clean? It's walnut shell media, not too old I wouldn't think, seems pretty clean still. I have no other additives in there. Never seemed to need them. Any help greatly appreciated.Attachment 49113
Dillon Case Polish is your friend
Have been using 760 for donkey's ages in my AI. What you describe is typical of 760. I clean the necks of my brass as soon as possible after firing them regardless of if and when I will dry tumble them. The longer they are left the harder it appears to remove the black gunk. I clean the inside with a very stick nylon brush and the outside with a Crazy Cloth. When ever I put and order in at Sinclairs I add a few Crazy Cloths. Have seen them advertised here as well, maybe Julian @ WI? I used to wipe the necks with white spirits but it only did 1/2 a job. If using a wet tumbling process (SS) no problem, everything comes off, including some brass!Quote:
Originally Posted by WillB
760 also forms a nasty carbon ring in the barrel which needs to be kept on top of.
I've found tumbling with Walnut is more effective when there's plenty of cases in the mix.
I tend to fill the tumbler and leave it run overnight.
Also a wet tumble with Stainless Steel pins will fix that for you if you know someone with one.
Cheers
Pete
Thanks guys bloody brilliant. I love this forum! 😀
AR2206H does that in my 7mm-08, the soot is way harder to clean off than other powders and it stains the crown of the barrel.
Some of that, and I add a couple of cap fulls of turps every once and a while seems to help the cleaning, and also seems to stop corrosion/finger prints, etc. Not meaning get the walnut wet, just a little, and run it for 5-10 mins before adding brass, just to mix it through.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikee
I get a bit of this, tumble overnight and box on regardless!
Since posting this afternoon I've just left it running... Starting to come right after about 5 hours. But next time I will take advantage of the excellent ideas. Cheers.
Slip 2000 carbon killer on a cloth a wipe/run around the neck will clean it off.
Oh and I forgot, if your doing pistol/straight'ish walled cases, after the fresh turps in, they go through the press like a hot knife through butter. Sort of lubes them a bit. (9mm, Dillon 650 and carbide dies - theory don't need lube, but you notice the difference)Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaker
So would the slip 2000 be good for the carbon ring in the bore also? I have some pro shot IV copper Remover which is supposed to work on carbon as well. Would be nice not to have to buy another product but if it's going to make a difference- I have recently figured out my Tikka loves a clean bore.
Slip 2000 is one of the best dedicated carbon removers. Good for cleaning carbon out of barrels b4 then attacking the Cu with a Cu solvent. Slip 2000 also good for soaking whole components in to remove carbon eg pistol parts. The other multi cleaners that claim they disolve carbon as well as removing everything else are usually fibbing a bit as you cannot physically disolve carbon. The likes of Slip 2000 "lifts" the carbon by other means. For carbon ring removal, once it gets to the bad stage, I use either American Bore Paste or JBs and just clean the freebore and lead area and the first section of the rifling where it forms. As a last resort I will use Autosol. 760 makes nice carbon rings but good cleaning practices will keep on top of it b4 needing to take to it with the more abbrasive cleaners.Quote:
Originally Posted by WillB
Awesome thanks for that I see they have it at WI
I use vinegar baking soda and boiling water 1/2 hour they come out looking like new
Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk
