Printable View
Hi, i have these slugs now but after tipping out the shot and installing them in a shell the crimp doesn't close very well. I cut the top off one shell and that looks ok. I'm sure it won't fall out but will it affect accuracy or velocity? I could add some wax to keep it secure. Any ideas on this?
Thanks
hmmm don't think that's safe to be honest. My understanding is that shot gun cartridges need a crimp. I believe most people roll crimp the shells after doing that.
so take flat screw driver and work your way around the star crimp pushing it back in,each fold of crimp in turn...it wont be pretty as a bought one...it doesnt have to be...and less wad pressure wont make load hotter/more pressure...if anything it will be less.consider a couple of thin layers of cardboard onto p of slug to bring it up to base of crimp if you want to.... its reasonably low pressure low tech shell to begin with...dont overthink it. you have replaced 1 load of shot with lesser load of slug...so reduced pressure right off the bat.
Maybe go one step back...
Shortening the shell means the slug has too much chamber to misbehave in before it engages the barrel bore.
Why not seat your slug and just leave the star crimp to flap about. It will still retain the slug, the conical form may cycle and feed better (try loading the magazine with empties and cycle them). You will still have full magazine capacity, and on firing will it help guide the slug to the centre of the bore and not wander round in the chamber.
Alternatively, immerse the crimp in boiling water and straighten it with a rounded dowel of suitable dimension, then seat the slug further out, again ensuring it engages the bore central with its axis. Or just seat it so far out it keeps the star crimp open. If you are worried about the slug falling out, you could put a cardboard wad ahead of it that you spot glue in with some hot melt glue at the edge.
Some good ideas. I'll try each one. I understand about shorting the cartridge so I won't do that.
Yeah Nah don't do that mate, a roll crimp is required, plenty of YouTube vids on how to and what it should look like. Go have a dig around and stay safe
I seem to remember that there is some risk in a spike in pressure with loose shotgun powder. It could be devastating in a shotgun. I was concerned about this in a subsonic rifle load but the loads of powder are so small and most rifles overwhelmingly strong that i'ts probably a low risk.Quote:
Originally Posted by hamsav
That sounds like I would need to buy new cartridges and a roll crimper. Winchester slug cartridges are $2 each so I'm wondering if it's worth while although I have 50 Lyman slugs now to use up. Can the red cut off shell be roll crimped still? Or the open crimped blue cartridge?
you can definitely load slugs into used hulls. Again, there is lots of info on the internet including Youtube how-to's. Google is your friendQuote:
Originally Posted by gactrx
as already noted, look online there's heaps of info. yes you would need a roll crimper but I believe i't possible to crimp a cartridge where you have swaped the shot for a slug like the red cartridge.
https://youtu.be/GgBWsNjySHo
This Guy makes a roll crimper!
I'm also interested in loading slugs. I checked through the web and the most informed website I found had this whole subsection on loading cast bullets for shotguns:
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/for...g-for-Shotguns
The red one is the perfect length for a roll crimp.
Those "air rifle pellets" are designed to replace a 1oz shot charge and sit in the same wad from memory I used a few sent to me by a forum member a while ago but went back to round balls as I didn't want another mold.
chÃ*o cả nhÃ* - em lÃ* thÃ*nh viên mói ra nháº*p
Great, any idea where I can get a roll crimper? Looks like I'll need a bench drill too.
This might be relevant
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...d-Substituting
and another useful discussion
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-NEF-UltraSLug
there is a heap of this stuff out there...
@Kiwi Sapper...above link post #21 answers questions relevant to your 2 1/2"
Thanks, yes I've been reading that Web site. Very good info. I think I'll find most answers there.
the round ball bit..........yip some folks been doing it for years.......some have even used kids glass marble when things were really grim.
Thre are basically two types of roll crimper.Quote:
Originally Posted by gactrx
The old style which bolts / screws to the workbench and is hand cranked available from Ebay. THIS is the one I have.
https://tinyurl.com/yetaetku
and the other type which is used in a vertical drill press........... https://tinyurl.com/5yx3jhw3
Beavergrease has been selling them on TradeMe jeff@beavergrease.co.nz
Um ............Thanks, but I don't think so. No way would I be firing slugs from my 1931 Churchill.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
@Kiwi Sapper....I didnt suggest you were....if you go into link and onto post #20 you will see reference made to swapping components AND changing load normally ment for longer hull to shorter hull be changing amount of spacers and the corrosponding LACK OF PRESSURE CHANGE ....EG it confirms you good to go...but if you had had a look you would already know this..... main part of article is swapping shot for slugs but the off shoots with tested data are pure gold for what you were asking,why I tagged you in.
What I am saying is:
1. ~ Yes, you can use equivalent weight lead shot load data as a starting point for loading cast lead slugs. Substituting an equal weight solid slug for the lead shot will reduce peak chamber pressure not increase it.
2. ~ If you don’t have your own means of checking the pressure of your loads (pressure trace equipment is best but unsupported faulty chamber bulge comparison to a know pressure load will work as well) then you should direct your attention to stiffening up the wad column in order to “work up the load from the starting point” rather then increasing the powder charge or switching to a hotter primer.
The testing I have done so far indicates that unless someone puts together something really crazy that should keep them out of trouble and allow them to build loads with decent performance. Things that would fall under “something really crazy” would be doing something like trying to force a 0.740+ diameter solid flat sided slug with no relief grooves or bands cast from pure type metal or turned on a lathe from bronze or copper rod through a standard 0.727” to 0.732” diameter shotgun bore or using a wad-column that consists of a solid ironwood 3/4” dowel turned down to 0.73” diameter that has absolutely no give to it at all (even hard nitro cards have some give to them). I’m sure that there are plenty of other “crazy” options but I can’t list them all. (As soon as you finally idiot proof something they come out with a better idiot.)
I should note that the fastest powders I have worked with are Clays and Red Dot and usually I work with the slower burners like WSF, IMR-4756, Blue Dot, and Steel powder. I can say that my limited work with Clays and Red Dot did show that I could completely replace the cushion section of the wad with a stack of hard nitro cards using 7/8 to 1-1/8 ounce weight wad-slugs and it didn’t put me over the pressure of the original lead shot load that I used as a starting point. It would usually put me pretty close to matching it but not quite though.
I should clarify that I haven’t done any work with the super fast burning powders that are even faster burning then Clays and Red Dot and basically just powdered dynamite namely Bullseye and AA#2 which are pretty much the two fastest burning powders available. It’s on my to do list for spring just to confirm the theory at the extreme end of the spectrum and not that I think there would be much sense in loading slugs with those powders since Clays an Red Dot are already a little too fast burning for building slug loads for anything other then plinking loads or three gun competition type stuff.
Now it is true that I was stiffening wad columns before I had pressure trace equipment. I was using the unsupported faulty chamber pressure bulge technique and an old Hodgdon manual I have that was written right at the turning point where plastic one piece shot wads and plastic hulls were the “new fangled thing” and people were still using paper hulls and card wadding to build loads as well. The only powder listed in the shot load section of that old book that is still around is HS-6 and all the others are discontinued but it is good for comparison purposes since it lists loads using both plastic wads and the old card wads side by side with powder charge and pressure differences (the old LUP pressure method) and has loads for lead shot, buck-shot, slugs, and blanks all listed both in plastic hulls and paper hulls with loads using wad columns consisting of one piece plastic wads, card/cork/fiber wad columns, and card/cork/fiber wad columns with a plastic gas seal unit only directly over the powder. It is an excellent source for studying how changes to the wad column affect a load if one doesn’t have their own equipment for doing their own experimental research.
this is PART OF THREAD....