Load ladder, annealing conundrum

Decided to work up a load ladder for my 7 x 57. Then read about annealing brass, having never bothered prior. Brass been used a few times, so thought that's a plan. So, after u tubing, I used a propane gas torch to heat the neck area as evenly as I could, watched them change colour then dropped into water before they got to hot to hold. My next step was to work up a load ladder using aforesaid annealed brass.

One of the reasons I did so is because my go to load has changed from well under minute of angle to just on minute of angle. Yes I know, plenty good enough, but not what the rifles capable of. Repeated groups.

'course next thing I did was to read some informed comment on annealing on this very forum. Shit, I thought, should have done that in the first place. Especially when a venerable gentleman commented that there's a great deal of nonsense on u tube.

So my conundrum is: do I test my load ladder using my primitively annealed brass hoping that close enough is good enough. Also hoping that variable neck tensions won't affect velocity. Or do I save all components and use brand new brass, recently purchased, especially given component shortage, thereby removing any differential?

I suspect I know the answer but thought I'd ask anyway.

Cheers

New brass will add a whole new set of variables. Changing one thing at a time is best (I quite often fail at this). Check your annealing then do the ladder.

Do the annealing first

Give the barrel a real thorough cleaning as well.

Getting the neck tension nice and consistent has to be one of the most important things for getting consistent velocities. If your brass is a bit all over the place in terms of hardness, I'd expect the tension to vary from sizing and therefore the ES to be a bit worse. Wouldn't expect any big shifts in average velocity though.

How you've sized the brass makes a difference too. Fireforming soaks up energy that otherwise might add a few fps to the bullet. Variance in the amount you bump the shoulder (maybe as a result of work hardening brass) can negatively effect ES too. Extreme example: 300 blackout subsonics - virgin brass is 1040 fps - once fired neck sized brass with same charge got 1080fps and had to be reduced 0.2gr.

If you want to anneal( which i recommend, i do every firing and i can see a great difference now i do) but do not wish to invest in an amp or a bench source or similar propane, id suggest contacting ten point one, they provide an annealing service qith an AMP machine, Sacrifice one case and have them annealed perfectly. In short, annealing works, and if you qant consistency, i feel its necessary, your brass will appreciate it and you will be set up better to shoot those small groups and low ES numbers

If you're shooting animals sub 600yds, I wouldn't be wasting much mental energy on annealing. Other aspects of brass treatment such as shoulder movement, concentricity and neck lubing are more likely to yield better bang for your efforts.

I'll AMP anneal for free for you (find that thread if keen). Hot brass based on a colour change then put into water seems a bit variable? Agree with above about other priorities...annealing is icing on a well made cake and won't fix a shit recipe.

Thanks for the offer@Tikka7mm08. Couldn't find your thread. I'll pm you. Cheers

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....members-32612/

That's a very generous offer. I'd like to take you up on it. Do you need a pilot for 7 x 57 or does the .308 family cover it?
I'll shout you one if additional pilot required.
Will pm to sort details. Appreciate your help.
Cheers

Yep that will be pilot no.9....which I havent' required yet.

I think i have 9 eh. Im in Auckland tho. I do get upto KK for range shoots from time to time

I do the annealing the deal is if I don't have the pilot the person buys and sends to me to add to the collection for the next person.

Sounds very fair to me.