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Thread: Lube Cases?

  1. #1
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    Lube Cases?

    Hi guys,

    Im newish to reloading , I was watching youtube today and this guy sprayed silcone spray on the cases instead of using the lube tray and lube. Is this addvisable and safe?

    As it seems a good way to speed up the process.

    Many Thanks.

  2. #2
    Caretaker
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    Lube Cases?

    Best case lube is redding sizing wax, and a little goes a long way

    The convenient spray on lubes will give you a stuck case sooner or later and at the very least due to lower lubricating capabilities add extra effort required to the sizing processes.

    Redding sizing wax on a cotton bud is a very efficient way to lube the inside of case necks, putting the product exactly where you want it and no where else

    The redding product is also a perfect addition to the external surfaces on brass shoulders when fire forming, it gives much sharper formed shoulders and cases extremely close to fully formed internal capacity.

    Steer clear of water soluble formulations as again they lack lubricity compared to the redding product and all of your fingerprints/product left on your dies and reloading equipment will cause surface rust.




    Last edited by 7mmsaum; 26-05-2015 at 11:23 PM.
    jakewire, muzr257, Bryan and 4 others like this.
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  3. #3
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    Thanks 7mmsaum for the great advice.

  4. #4
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    I too am loading my first rifle ....done millions of pistol loads , straight walled , no shoulders , carbide dies etc etc .... lubing every single stinking case , and sizing and removing crimps and champfering ... for rifle , yee gods , what a pain I just want to pull the press and have lots and lots of completed bullets ....kinda is fun though, but when you have 2000+ 223 cases , it gets a little tedious
    steven and Beaker like this.
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  5. #5
    R93
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    I use neatsfoot oil and a stamp pad for the outside of my pistol and rifle cases. A little goes a long way.
    Do what ya want! Ya will anyway.

  6. #6
    Member Driverman's Avatar
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    I have been using lanolin for years.A little goes a very long way. Can be diluted with white spirits or alcohol.
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  7. #7
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    Neck sizing - Hornady One Shot spray (the aerosol one), Angle spray so that the inside of neck is also lubed. I use a wooden loading block that only has the necks showing. One Shot just loves plastic trays ha ha.
    FLSing - Stamp Pad and any of the good liquid lube oils. I use Lyman. Small wipe with same oil on cotton bud inside necks.
    Case Forming - There is only 1 lube and I use Imperial Sizing Wax.
    Hornady One Shot needs minimal clean up. DON'T BE TEMPTED TO USE IT FOR FLSING.
    I keep clear of any water based lubes - snake oil - apart from potential corrosion issues they just don't posses the lubrication qualities of the likes of Imperial.

  8. #8
    Member andyanimal31's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zimmer View Post
    Neck sizing - Hornady One Shot spray (the aerosol one), Angle spray so that the inside of neck is also lubed. I use a wooden loading block that only has the necks showing. One Shot just loves plastic trays ha ha.
    FLSing - Stamp Pad and any of the good liquid lube oils. I use Lyman. Small wipe with same oil on cotton bud inside necks.
    Case Forming - There is only 1 lube and I use Imperial Sizing Wax.
    Hornady One Shot needs minimal clean up. DON'T BE TEMPTED TO USE IT FOR FLSING.
    I keep clear of any water based lubes - snake oil - apart from potential corrosion issues they just don't posses the lubrication qualities of the likes of Imperial.
    I have used my first can of one shot and justed cracked the second last night.
    I came up with a cunning plan of spraying the neck up in the block from 4 directions but then to get the lube to the bottom where its needed i put another tray on top and flipped it over so they were upside down and sprayed their bums!
    Worked a treat and the brass was really smooth through the press so just a bit of lateral thinking has done the trick.
    I rate the stuff personally and wilk be putting my third can into stock soon!
    My favorite sentences i like to hear are - I suppose so. and Send It!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumpy View Post
    I too am loading my first rifle ....done millions of pistol loads , straight walled , no shoulders , carbide dies etc etc .... lubing every single stinking case , and sizing and removing crimps and champfering ... for rifle , yee gods , what a pain I just want to pull the press and have lots and lots of completed bullets ....kinda is fun though, but when you have 2000+ 223 cases , it gets a little tedious
    Bro how do u have time with the wee sprogletts now ? By the way can you speed up the NZFS server its Fing slow and im over it......
    stumpy likes this.

  10. #10
    Member zimmer's Avatar
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    Have also used for neck sizing Imperial Dry Neck Lube or just plain graphite powder and they are both effective. They tend to be a bit grubby though and like handling moly you end up with black marks on your white shirt, the light switches, the basin in the bathroom........

  11. #11
    Gone................. mikee's Avatar
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    dillon case lube, spray on. Brilliant when you use it but not so good if you forget, eh
    puku, ebf and Carpe Diem like this.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driverman View Post
    I have been using lanolin for years.A little goes a very long way. Can be diluted with white spirits or alcohol.
    I 2nd this, diluted with ethyl alcohol, good luck finding some, lay all my brass in a plastic bin lid and spray just the necks. Never have any trouble

  13. #13
    Member Banana's Avatar
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    I use motor oil.
    cambo and steven like this.

  14. #14
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    I use Imperial wax, but I have used wd40 when "desperate".

    PS on my current usage one tin looks to do 5000 rounds which at $20 a pop isnt a huge cost.
    Last edited by steven; 27-05-2015 at 04:36 PM.
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  15. #15
    Member zimmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven View Post
    I use Imperial wax, but I have used wd40 when "desperate".

    PS on my current usage one tin looks to do 5000 rounds which at $20 a pop isnt a huge cost.
    Stick with your Imperial - I wouldn't recommend WD40. Despite what the maker may claim it is low in lubrication qualities. Might as well use kero instead of WD40
    I do give my die internals a blast with WD40 though when I have finished a loading session. I never used to do anything and then found corrosion (probably from fingers handling cases during seating) inside my 308 Comp die

 

 

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