Thread: This is a new fail

Originally Posted by m101a1

been loading for 35 yrs only 1 stuck case tried one shot 10yrs ago f k me 10 stuck cases out of a couple hundred one shot is shit use imperial wax now or prefer dillon spray lube if you can get it .

I have had a fantastic run out of it.
I just finished sizing the cases and all went through easily.
I don't think I let the spray dry long enough in the die so mors then likely user error.
I shake the can like buggery and spray from 4 sides .
Never had a problem till tonight!

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Originally Posted by inglishill

I suggest you double check all the wiring in your immediate vicinity

My luck has come good. I am of to bed so I think it's about to run out!

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Congrats on the unf#cking!

Originally Posted by m101a1

been loading for 35 yrs only 1 stuck case tried one shot 10yrs ago f k me 10 stuck cases out of a couple hundred one shot is shit use imperial wax now or prefer dillon spray lube if you can get it .

I've had a stuck case or two with One Shot but think the product is OK. Not as good as Imperial Wax, but OK. I think stuck cases arise with underspraying One Shot, especially near the case head. Since always overspraying, no more stuck cases.
For bigger batches of cases I like the convenience of One Shot. Smaller batches, Imperial Wax is brilliant, and you can just feel it's a superior lubricant. If Redding had an aerosol version it's all I would use.

I use oneshot, put all the cases in a ziplock bag and give it a spray, not heaps, a few seconds for 100 cases. then I give them a roll with my hands and the pick the bag up and massage it for a few minutes. Zipped up of course. Never had an issue.

Originally Posted by inglishill

I use oneshot, put all the cases in a ziplock bag and give it a spray, not heaps, a few seconds for 100 cases. then I give them a roll with my hands and the pick the bag up and massage it for a few minutes. Zipped up of course. Never had an issue.

I do it with them standing in the tray as then it really gets into the necks as well and makes the expander ball withdrawal smooth as a baby's bum.
To be fair thd first time I used it I didn't like it, and I went back to my redding oil lube pad and graphite dip for a few years.
I then watched how they recommend to do it and have never looked back.
It is way quicker as can do 50 at a time with the necks all done at the same time.
I would turn suicidal rubbing wax on and off and how do you lube the necks ?


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I just make my own case lube these days

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

I would turn suicidal rubbing wax on and off and how do you lube the necks?

I use a nylon bore brush, a quick wipe/spin over the top of the wax and then down each case. Takes no time at all. Helps clean the inside of the case neck as well.

Just looking at the die - it wouldn't have been a Hornady full length sizer by any chance? Only dies I have ever had a stuck case on is that flavour of die, I do not know why but they just seem to require a massive amount more force than any other die brand I've tried. I just don't have the issue with any other brand, and the Hornady full length dies I've used have all been the same. Make straight ammo, just very sticky and require a huge amount of force. I've ripped the rims of 3 or 4 cases now, needed to use the stuck case remover on all but one and I was lucky enough to be able to turn the shellholder around and pop that one free. It's not the expander dragging or anything like that - the case is fully up in the die and you can't start it moving on the way out of the die.

Originally Posted by No.3

I use a nylon bore brush, a quick wipe/spin over the top of the wax and then down each case. Takes no time at all. Helps clean the inside of the case neck as well.

Just looking at the die - it wouldn't have been a Hornady full length sizer by any chance? Only dies I have ever had a stuck case on is that flavour of die, I do not know why but they just seem to require a massive amount more force than any other die brand I've tried. I just don't have the issue with any other brand, and the Hornady full length dies I've used have all been the same. Make straight ammo, just very sticky and require a huge amount of force. I've ripped the rims of 3 or 4 cases now, needed to use the stuck case remover on all but one and I was lucky enough to be able to turn the shellholder around and pop that one free. It's not the expander dragging or anything like that - the case is fully up in the die and you can't start it moving on the way out of the die.

Correct new hornady dies first use.
My process as a rule is brush necks as I amp annealing.
Spray, fl size using comp shell holder. Trim if I have to and fill up.
What about powder sticking to wax in the neck?
To be fair I have approx 20 sets of dies with 3/4 been red and as long as I do my job I don't have any issues.
I have a trick question for the team.
So I always use comp shell holders and measure to a two thousand bump.
I havnt got the #5 shell holder set but upon measuring fired and sized it appears to be bumping 20 though back with brand new die and matching shell holder.
I have to do more research!

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Give lee an email with photos bud.....they may just replace it for you. Great you got up n running again.

Your chamber and your die were made by two separate outfits, using tooling supplied by a further set of outfits and all of it is likely to be within the tolerance specs... Also, if you are playing in the belted magnum space the headspacing is by specification off the belt which is not exactly what we want as reloaders trying to size the neck/shoulder the minimum amount for brass life... You might find comp shellholders are not any advantage for the rifle you are reloading for there - and it might be a bit of quickmath and the feeler gauges. Stick the standard shellholder in the ram, ram fully up, quickmath amount of feeler gauge 'shim' and wind the die down onto it and set the lockring. Wap a case through, see if it chambers and just use that as your resizing amount going forwards. If you want a further check, one circle of masking tape on the bottom of the case and try chambering it again and see if there is any 'feel' or resistance on the bolt handle. Ideal version is yes, there is with one layer of tape and you know you're within ballpark of where you want to be with your shoulder. I know one reloader that has a little shim from a coke can wall, he uses that for this test. Roughly about 3thou if the brain is braining.

As far as the powder sticking to the case neck with brushing wax in, never seen it so far. You don't need a lot of wax - an average little tin is enough for thousands of reloads. If you can see wax, you have used too much!

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

What about powder sticking to wax in the neck?

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All but a smidgen of this wax should be removed when pulling the neck expander back through the neck. That's what I find with One Shot anyway. Sometimes the odd kernel of powder sticks to remaining residue inside the neck but I've always thought it gets pushed down when seating the bullet. Never negatively affected my loads as far as I can tell so simply don't worry at all about it.

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Put the die in the press upside down ( from underneath) and remove the expander

Then push the brass out (up) with the right drift punch with the ram

An interesting method of case recovery. I assume one jams (slightly) the expander ball into the neck & unwind it from the stem first so the ball/pin falls free inside the case (tap the ball free of the neck next) & when inverted in the press they both fall to the base so the punch can slide past them to extract the case.
I welded a piece of rod to an old unused shell seat to act as a punch as this rod was to be for holding used 22 cases to make up 223 projectiles when passing through a derimming die......but would work in this scenario.
I'm pleased the problem is now sorted though.

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

Done the tidy up bit.that is the first fail with one shot.

Brand new dies to

There is the problem, you need to clean them first

I use the one shot lube, the volume I do I have to use a quick process, doesn't have to be the best (imperial wax) but it has to be fast when you are doing 100-300 at a time

A couple of my many die sets are bitches & preform accordingly, until I run a few through with imperial wax, then the one shot is good to go

Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg

There is the problem, you need to clean them first

I use the one shot lube, the volume I do I have to use a quick process, doesn't have to be the best (imperial wax) but it has to be fast when you are doing 100-300 at a time

A couple of my many die sets are bitches & preform accordingly, until I run a few through with imperial wax, then the one shot is good to go

I definitely cleaned the dies!
The funny thing was the rest were fine.
Go figure!

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