Newbie wants to reload for 22-250

Greetings, I know there are a few threads on reloading appearing at the moment and I have already gleaned some info from them.

My step son gave me his reloading gear which he was using to reload for both a .243 and a .270 as his business is taking off and he simply doesn't have any spare time.

I only have a 22-250 for which I have been saving the brass from.

I have had a look through what he gave me and there is a bottle of ADI powder (not sure which one) and an ADI manual, also scales, press etc.

I note however no trimmer of any sort, so at the moment what I am needing some advice on is do I need a case trimmer, everything I have seen on Youtube suggests yes but just want to ask the collective brains on this forum.

Budget well right at this moment its tiny although that may change in the new year.

Thanks

not essential...good to have but not essential...I have trimmed brass using rather agricultural methods but measured,measured and measured again....for one or 3 reloads you possibly will get away without trimming at all....Im using my .223 inner and measuring as I cut back neck.... the bits to do it properly from LEE arent expensive...RGB dies are less than box of factory ammo ,that costing $59,99 so $3 a shot !!!!!!
you COULD use a file..just measure lots...Ive used angle grinder...yip thats right....but was gentle....and measured lots...
a good measuring stick is most valuable tool,set of micrometre/slidey thingies is perfect for the job...look likes a ruler crossed with pipe wrench...or capitol F you can measure case length...overall cartridge length...
the other very important tool is a pen or pencil...to write down what load you have made up...so if its good,you can repeat endlessly.

you WILL NEED case deburring tool...pointy one end and like rocket legs on other...trims inside and outside of case neck after you have trimmed it..agriculturally or otherwise... also good if have hornady brass or milserp brass with crimped primer pockets,quick twirl and the primers slip in easy...

just use the lee hand one its simple and no measuring required and cheap. Also if you trim you'll need a chamfer tool for deburring the neck after you've trimmed it also cheap. that's what i use

22-250 is actually known for its very good brass life so trimming probably won't be an issue untill your brass is 3 or 4 times fired anyhow. I'm a big fan of the Lee quick trim system where you just have a trim die for each of your calibres and trim on the press. It's dummy proof, quick and easy and consistent. Have a look at the adi website and their load library will give you an idea of what powders etc you will need for the projectiles you intend to reload.

Thanks for the advice so far time for more research.

These are what I use for case trimming. Cheap, simple and effective. Just need a battery drill or the likes and away you go.

https://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Rel...ton+90116.html

https://www.gunworks.co.nz/shop/item...udcase-trimmer

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stagstalker

These are what I use for case trimming. Cheap, simple and effective. Just need a battery drill or the likes and away you go.

https://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Rel...ton+90116.html

https://www.gunworks.co.nz/shop/item...udcase-trimmer

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They work just as it says on the tin. Perfect.

I don't even use a drill

Pffft
https://www.longrangehunting.com/art...fe-at-40x.952/

Fuk 6000+ fps

Thanks @stagstalker have ordered one of those trimmers and just ordered a sample pack of Sierra matchking 55grn to get me started

YIP used that type of trimmer by hand for years...then realised how easy it was using cordless drill....
so I resize..then clean primer pocket,then chuck in holder in drill...stick doohicky down inside case to check/trim length...then champher inside n outside of case neck....AND if case is a bit dirty,wrap a choirboy around it and give drill another zip...brings them up great.

Powder that came with everything is ADI 2213C. Would this be ok with 55g projectiles or do I need something that burns faster?

Sounds like you need a load data book as well

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Happy Jack

Powder that came with everything is ADI 2213C. Would this be ok with 55g projectiles or do I need something that burns faster?

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Definitely need something faster - ADI only list it in their data for the 70 grain option. You would be much better served by something like AR2206H, AR2208, 8208 or H380.
You can download lots of load data from the powder manufacturers like ADI, Hodgdon, Alliant, etc. And many bullet manufacturers as well like Speer and Nosler.
As a newbie you may not be aware that many of the Hodgdon (and IMR) powders listed in the manuals are made in Australia by ADI - they get given different names and sold in different packaging. Some of relevance to you are:
AR2206H = H4895
AR2208 = Varget
Benchmark 8208 = IMR8208XBR

Powder equivalents - ADI World Class Powders and Ammunition

The Hornady page for 55g 22-250
Attachment 153989

Thankyou gentlemen

Attachment 157323

Got out to the shed early this morning and put these first 9 handloads together.

Once fired brass (fired by me)
ADI 2208 powder
Federal large rifle primers
55gr Sierra Blitzking boat tails

Hopefully get out and test them this week, started at the recommended minimum for powder at 34gr.
I didn't have a ammo holder so knocked this one up quickly (don't laugh).

Thanks everyone for the advice so far.

Im not laughing at all......find larger piece and knock up decent loading block with say 45 holes in it...make it deep enough that case wont fall out and tight enough they dont tip sideways...why 45 ???? so you can load fourty at once and move case over a whole column/row each time,easier to keep track of where you are up too. I recently bought some spade bits for just this reason and now have 223 block....308---270 block and 45/70 blocks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Happy Jack

Attachment 157323

Got out to the shed early this morning and put these first 9 handloads together.

Once fired brass (fired by me)
ADI 2208 powder
Federal large rifle primers
55gr Sierra Blitzking boat tails

Hopefully get out and test them this week, started at the recommended minimum for powder at 34gr.
I didn't have a ammo holder so knocked this one up quickly (don't laugh).

Thanks everyone for the advice so far.

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Greetings Happy Jack,
My loading blocks are made from 12 mm particle board with holes drilled right through, fifty holes per block. A 1/2 inch or 13 mm spade bit is ideal for the job and use a drill press if you have one. Next tack on a base of 4.5 mm hardboard or whatever over some PVA glue. I have made up two blocks each for the three case head sizes I use. I have found these great as they don't take too much space when stacked in my shelves. Being a bit on the OCD side mine were also clear finished.
Regards Grandpamac.

ahummmm 2208= VARGET

so rather than starting at minimum....you have started .6 of a grain below MAXIMUM......

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

ahummmm 2208= VARGET

so rather than starting at minimum....you have started .6 of a grain below MAXIMUM......

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Greetings Micky,
34 grains is the start load in the Hodgdons data for Varget for the 55 grain in the .22.250. 36.5 grains is their max. My son has used the 36.5 grain load with good results and book velocity. Hodgdons gets even better velocity from 8208. The Hornady data is a lot lower for both powders. Hodgdons lists max of 35.8 grains for 8208. I usually go with the powder manufacturer first for loads and the projectile manufacturer for the non standard type projectiles. I always check multiple sources for data where I can.
Regards Grandpamac.

I just looked at chart above,THATS WHERE it says 34.6 is max..........pretty sure our man be fine...but after recent balls up...Im a bit trigger shy.

@Happy Jack those blitzkings when you get graduate on to game with your new loads do the damage. Bits of animal go flying everywhere.

That's a great block.
When you want to reload more at once, go for 50 because that's the size of a lot of cartridge boxes and about as much as you can reload in a long evening.

This is rimu with linseed oil and a thin plywood back. An hour's work for me and I've used it for years.
Attachment 157356
Attachment 157357

This is one a mate made for me from a piece of plastic.
Attachment 157358

Being a builder I used what was lying around in the shed, just done on the drill press with a twist drill as didn't want to go rummaging in the work van for my other drills. Will make something better when I have the time.

34gr was the minimum load in the ADI manual I have for my calibre, being my first time I was wary of going up to the max load straight away.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

I just looked at chart above,THATS WHERE it says 34.6 is max..........pretty sure our man be fine...but after recent balls up...Im a bit trigger shy.

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Looking at the Hornady loads they seem to generally lower than the Hodgdon / ADI loads. They do not list the 55 grain GMX but perhaps they are toned down just in case they get used for it anyway. Perhaps the GMX is on a different sheet.
Regards Grandpamac.

@granpamac just fired off those 9 projectiles today finally.

All went well, at least they all went bang anyway and nothing got broken apart from the target.

Did forget my sandbag and it was a reasonable wind blowing so not really a true test.

My question is with those projectiles and I safely go up to the 36.5gr max load or am I better backing off from that. I ask because those Blitzkings are on the ADI chart, the nearest 55gr Sierra on the chart is soft point so being new I don't know how that equates.

I won't post my results they were not that good in the circumstances.

Thanks

mate..if you go back 20ish years...load data was for grain weight of projectile ONLY....take from that what you will.......for me,it means pretty much any cup n core of same weight will be fine...monos are a little bit different but I still use data as base line...

What MD said. Treat them them same as your starting loads from the low end so have some inbuilt safety already.

Thanks

@Happy Jack when I work up loads I always mark the primer with a felt pen with various symbols and record the symbol and weight on a piece of paper that goes with me to the range.
If your cases aren't marked and you accidentally tip your loading block over there is no way of knowing which weight the loads are.
Here is a photo of what I normally do.Attachment 158210

@Tech great idea, I was thinking how to know without writing on the cases

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Happy Jack

@granpamac just fired off those 9 projectiles today finally.

All went well, at least they all went bang anyway and nothing got broken apart from the target.

Did forget my sandbag and it was a reasonable wind blowing so not really a true test.

My question is with those projectiles and I safely go up to the 36.5gr max load or am I better backing off from that. I ask because those Blitzkings are on the ADI chart, the nearest 55gr Sierra on the chart is soft point so being new I don't know how that equates.

I won't post my results they were not that good in the circumstances.

Thanks

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Greetings Happy Jack,
If you are able to chronograph those loads they will give you an indication of pressure. If not then you could try a few more .2 grain steps. Best save them for a calm day and definitely remember your sand bag. When testing you need to be as steady as possible. I use a front rest and a rear bag. I also place my non trigger hand on top of the scope to damp the movement. Once your development is complete then final sighting in should mimic how you would shoot in the field. As Micky says below your post you can use loads for cup and core projectiles (your projectiles are such) with most load data. I would go with the Hodgdons data. Once you have a load that shoots OK load 10 or so and use them for hunting while you refine the load over time. One last thing you need a decent aiming mark. A hollow square or circle is best. I use NZDA 50 and 100 metre targets but you can make some with red insulation tape on paper, A3 or larger. As an old draughtsman I have a lifetime supply of old plans that I use.
Regards Grandpamac.