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Still in the experimental phase, but what tray liners are you using? I’m getting uneven bubbling under the mat, ok while test runs of heavy projectiles with bigger bases, but when I get to the more slender 30 cal 257 cal 6.5 cal it’s going to be interesting
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Have you tried baking paper?
No I hadn’t! I’ll give it a tryQuote:
Originally Posted by 2post
So it's Tertle's place for plastic coated lead scones and tea is it?
What powder coating gun are you using, or just dipping?
I've just been using tin foil... not worrying about standing them all up, just a bit of a shake to flatten the pile out.
The 30cal boolets I've been doing are for 300blk, never going to be a 200m tack driver.
Going to be honest my scone baking is probably worse! Just rolling them in plastic no5 containers with some plastic airsoft pellets, think my heat may have been a tad high, but I’ve a fair load of lead made up to practice on!Quote:
Originally Posted by 300CALMAN
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Baking paper works well. I found that the bullets stick to tinfoil too much.
I'm using Mono Magic Foil non-stick. 5m in a roll. Been using the same piece for a while. The bullets do not stick at all.
Your results look promising. Non stick foil will give you better heat transfer. I find 30 minutes curing after powder starts to flow gives the most consistent and hard coating
Thanks I think I had the oven too hot and had left it in for only 20 mins…….but that’s the joy of dabbling in the dark arts, always more to learn ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Driverman
Where have you guys been getting your powder coat from?
My first powder coat was given to me by Jeff aka the Cast Bullet kid, my latest attempt is from a post that @Driverman and @rupert madeQuote:
Originally Posted by NZ32
From Driverman
I apply powder coat to bare bullets that have been water dropped from the mold with no other preparation.I take the bullets from the water and when dry i put them in an ice cream container(2L), spoon in 1 teaspoon of powder,put the lid on and shake for about a minute. Up and down, sideways and all over. I then pour the bullets into a piece of shade cloth and wriggle around to get rid of excess powder. I have a mini oven that has been preheated to 400 deg F. You can buy non stick foil and if you stand your bullets on this(using needle nose pliers) and then put into the preheated oven and bake for 30 minutes you will end up with fantastic bullets that glide through the sizer . If you are shooting 303 I coat 308 bullets a couple of times and get great results in my 303,s as the powder coating increases diam nicely. 7.62x39 shot in a Norinco has a sloppy bore and powder coating takes up the slack nicely. I get a 1 hole group at 100 m (except for the first bloody shot)
I powder coat 9mm 115g 124g 125g 150g. 38 (357) (I have 23 different molds) 32 cal 98g,102g,112g. 45acp 200swc, 240gswc. 303(.312,.314) 308 (.309,.310) and 7.62x39 (5 different styles)
I get my powder from the US but in NZ you can get non TGIC PC from Resto supplies.
And from Rupert
I have bought Eastwood powder from Resto (https://restosupplies.co.nz/Powder-Coating). They have several colours, including Ford Light Blue (about $25 for 225 grams), the gold standard for powder coating using the shake and bake system outlined above by Driverman. However, it is winter and I have noticed that even Ford Light Blue has been affected by the damp/cold weather, so I put the bullets in a container in the vibrator cleaner for a few minutes and the powder goes on but rather thinner than in summer (warm/dry) so I need two coats for full coverage. Maybe if you did your shake and bake inside it would be OK in the winter. Dulux sell powders of the correct type but I have not tried them yet
Hope that helps, and yes a small bit goes a bloody long way!
Oven temperature is critical. I use an oven thermometer to get the correct temp. Most small oven thermometers are miles out. If you are about 15deg under your powder wont cure properly.
Yeah i was using a thermal point and shot type thing, i opened the door and took a reading without the glass in the way……ive no problem about being under at all!Quote:
Originally Posted by Driverman
Cheers guys, got some of that Eastwood stuff last week but wondered if there was a cheaper supplier around. Going to do some .358 casting this morning. The Mrs wants purple bullets for CAS so that's on the cards too, she even bought the toaster oven.....
I've just cast a bunch of 30cal bullets for my 30-30 with a mates Lee pot and molds. It's my first time casting and I haven't lubed and run the casts through a sizer die. This is the first I've heard of powder coating as opposed to lubing with the likes of Lee alox. Are there significant advantages to powder coating over traditional lubing? Do you powder coat and then run the casts through a sizer die afterwards, no lube required?
Thanks, Joel
Powder coat and then size. Can push a powder coated bullet faster than lubed.
Youll be a long time using up your powder. The purple I have I got from the States about 2016 and have cast over 5000 9mm etc and still have heaps left.Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ32
Right, closer to 400 at 30 mins
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@Driverman I might be over thinking it but…………
The process relies on the initial static process of bonding the powder to the projectile.
This is achieved by using say a number 5 recycling plastic container, shanking and rolling the projectiles sometimes with plastic beads / airsoft pallets.
Would like something like below run against and underneath the container increase or enhance the process????
Attachment 173377
I dont use the plastic pellets but just shakenbake the boolits on their own, The airsoft balls are really there to stop the powder being knocked around by the other boolits .I find that I can use just about any type of plastic container but have developed liking for the round chinese takeaways containers. I apply a very thin powder coat and then size and then apply another coat just piling them onto a non stick lined tray. At about 5 minutes baking I give the tray a jumble shake to stop clumping and when baked dump directly into cold water. Another technique I use is to dissolve powder into acetone and when thoroughly mixed lower a tray of boolits into the mix and then lift and allow to dry. The boolits have a very exact thickness of coating and are then baked at 400f for 30minutes. they are extremely accurate .I have found it better to apply a thin powder coat several times than a thick coat. As an example I cast a bore rider 208 grain for one of my 303 that has a bore of .314 and powder coated once and sized .316 shoots about 2" groups at 100yards.(11 grains ap70). two thin powder coats sizing each coating pulls the group into about 1inch and a quarter to 1inch and a half. I only use the translucent copper for this load which I have been told by Smoke is no longer available. .I have also developed a high pressure coating using powder and then coat with an invisible carnauba /lithium wax for +p 9mm etc. I am getting groups at 50 yards that show promise. I have all the time in the world to play around with coatings and enjoy shooting cast boolits .
I am now heading off to my reloading room to load some 32S&W long with some 98g powder coated wad cutters. I have to develop a new load for these as the powder coating is so slippery I am getting inconsistent accuracy ,I think due to low chamber pressure .I will up the charge by .1 of a grain. You have to draw a balance between crimping and powder loadings because crimping altho it increase chamber pressure causes boolit deformation.
Ive just put in another lot to be baked, including previously poor coatings, its also interesting that certain projectiles seem to like the powder????
The lot just out
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@Driverman you’ll appreciate the mold….yes a purchase through the cast boolits forum some years ago, this means I might get the 25/06 out again!
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Achievement for the day, not the most uniform coating but good enough for close pistol targets.
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we'll have everyone casting and powder coating before to long
Holy sh#t batman! They look great…….ok whats your method! Mine are patchy as F###!Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ32
Trial and error, plus a bit of youtube. Heat them a bit before adding powder, just not too much as it gets too sticky.
