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Thread: Primer seating depth problems with new Lapua brass ?

  1. #1
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    Primer seating depth problems with new Lapua brass ?

    Hey guys, finally got around to loading some new Lapua brass for my sons 6.5 Grendel. Man the primers were very tight and difficult to seat and gave the old Lee hand primer a work out. They also just feel a bit deep with the non scientific finger test and measuring them they are all around 10 thou below the case head ? Anyway I tried to pop one out to see what's going on, then got my de-capping pin stuck ! yep found out the flash hole is also smaller on Lapua brass ? Suffice to say had a bit of a shocker so didn't continue. We've only used Hornady to date and never had a problem.

    Anyway is 10 thou too deep? In trying to force the buggers in could have I deformed them slightly ? I can use my Hornady die to de-cap which has a thinner de-capping pin or continue ?

    Any input appreciated...cheers

  2. #2
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    Know their flash hole is 1.5mm, think standard is 2mm. Have found Lapua brass to be 'tight" in primer department, have you tried different small rifle primer?
    Pete_D likes this.

  3. #3
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    Lapua SRP primer pockets are about .003 deeper than standard (0.122 versus 0.125). You must be crushing your primer anvils a fair bit, normally would set them 0.002-0.006 below case head.
    zimmer likes this.

  4. #4
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    They are Federal Gold Match primers, I usually use just the Federal standard but couldn't get them. I have measured and they appear to be the same cup size.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gqhoon View Post
    Lapua SRP primer pockets are about .003 deeper than standard (0.122 versus 0.125). You must be crushing your primer anvils a fair bit, normally would set them 0.002-0.006 below case head.
    ok thanks, sounds like thats what happened in an attempt to get them in. My hand priming tool felt very sticky and judders when seating so very little control. What about smearing a tiny bit of case lube in the pocket with a Q tip ?

  6. #6
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    I wouldn’t be using any lubricant that might compromise the detonation from the primer.

    I use a K&M hand primer (from Workshop Innovation), that gives good adjustability for primer seating depth. 21st Century one is even better but not aware of a stockist in NZ.
    Pete_D likes this.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gqhoon View Post
    I wouldn’t be using any lubricant that might compromise the detonation from the primer.

    I use a K&M hand primer (from Workshop Innovation), that gives good adjustability for primer seating depth. 21st Century one is even better but not aware of a stockist in NZ.
    There's a new 21st Century on TradeMe at present. Looks like the seller us a retailer.
    I have the old model 21st Century - 3 thou per click but able to adjust half way between clicks.
    Pete_D likes this.

  8. #8
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    if they that hard to prime,consider giving pocket a twirl with deburring tool to put tiny taper into primer hole... DO NOT use lube.
    personally I would fire off the few you have loaded primer into, and do the above with rest...if primer has been crushed and doesnt fire with big stag in front of you......you will be pissed.
    if you do decide to fire off the primed case...dont poke muzzle into your polarfleece coat to muffle sound.....it will leave cigarette burns melted in...dont ask how I know this.
    Pete_D and Dusty Fog like this.

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    Ok thanks for the recommendations, shame the K&N one is out of stock at about $140 I'd give that a go. The 21st Century is $375....gulp !
    What about the 'RCBS universal hand priming tool' ?

  10. #10
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    lee hand priming tools work well...always have and always will..you can FEEL primer bottom out.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    lee hand priming tools work well...always have and always will..you can FEEL primer bottom out.
    Agreed, thats all I've used and its worked well for me too, but this new brass is very tight and you loose all the sensitivity because it jerks and stutters as it seats rather than being smooth.
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  12. #12
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    I had that with hornady brass,because it has a crimp..a quick twirl with deburring tool (normally used on case mouth) and primers slip in like a well greased willy up a slack fanny..... its worth trying it on single case....
    hamsav and Pete_D like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    I had that with hornady brass,because it has a crimp..a quick twirl with deburring tool (normally used on case mouth) and primers slip in like a well greased willy up a slack fanny..... its worth trying it on single case....
    I can see why you went there !!!! I just re-read my post,....what was I thinking
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete_D View Post
    Ok thanks for the recommendations, shame the K&N one is out of stock at about $140 I'd give that a go. The 21st Century is $375....gulp !
    What about the 'RCBS universal hand priming tool' ?
    Good tool. Probably the pick of that style of hand primer. Doesn't need different shell holders for different sized cartridges. Safe, has a gate that seperates the primer being inserted from the tray. Conformable to use. Has good "feel".
    Pete_D likes this.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete_D View Post
    Ok thanks for the recommendations, shame the K&N one is out of stock at about $140 I'd give that a go. The 21st Century is $375....gulp !
    What about the 'RCBS universal hand priming tool' ?
    Don't know if you'll get much advantage from the RCBS, I had the same problem with my RCBS and new Norma brass and GM210m. I changed primer and it went in smoother and the load shot better. Will use the GM's another day
    Pete_D likes this.

 

 

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