Thread: Re loading Rio Mini Magnum #3 hulls.

I have a goodly quantity of the Rio Mini Magnum hull's and noted that the outer cardboard pack bears the warning.

" Not suitable for reloading"


Fair enough, but is that a fact of life and death or an example of commercial marketing and bean counter arse covering?

For example, had i recovered the hull from the range after it had been fired and discarded by another, I would have no reason to question about reloading, only decide on appearance.

I append an image of a once fired hull and despite having scrutinised it with an intense scrute :>) can find no cause for the warning . The only change is an ejector mark which is insignificant on the brass.

Opinions please on reloading the hulls. Thank You.

Someone with far more experience shotshell reloading may know different but ' not suitable for reloading' could just be arse covering or it may be that the carefully developed combination of shell, wad and powder with specific shot load can't be safely duplicated outside the factory.
Most shotshells have a brassy plated steel head rather than brass. originally at least, steel headed shotshells were not designed for reloading. Does a magnet stick to it? Some auto loaders with fairly generous chambers expand the head a lot and you might find re sizing steel to that degree difficult, possibly needing a 'size master 'type of press. In all I'd suggest that you would be far better off with shells intended to be reloaded.

thank you for responding.

Someone with far more experience shotshell reloading may know different but ' not suitable for reloading' could just be arse covering or it may be that the carefully developed combination of shell, wad and powder with specific shot load can't be safely duplicated outside the factory.


Agreed, which is why I am asking.


Most shotshells have a brassy plated steel head rather than brass. originally at least, steel headed shotshells were not designed for reloading. Does a magnet stick to it?

Yes, very strongly :>) but steel isn't a problem in many different hulls.

Some auto loaders with fairly generous chambers expand the head a lot and you might find re sizing steel to that degree difficult,


Good point, but a MEC 600 jnr deprimed and resized the metal OK.

In all I'd suggest that you would be far better off with shells intended to be reloaded.

A fair comment, but how many cardboard packs of shotshells have a statement on them saying they are OK for reloading? I ain't. seen one yet. :>)
I did not buy them for reloading, I bought them for "working in a new semi auto which required a heavy load. BUT having used them for the job and lying around, it is a meaningful question to raise. Even if reloaded with a lighter load for another gun.

I have reloaded the type of cases you have on hand, Chedite-type, with parallel ribbed walls. I used wads designed for Winchester AA compression formed, tapered wall cases, and did not have any problems. However, the Chedite plastic seems more brittle and thinner when compared to the Winchester AA cf cases. So, I would not expect to get as many reloads from the Chedite cases. If I was going to use a significant number of Chedite cases I would have bought the correct wads for parallel sided cases, to avoid the potential problem of powder migrating past the wad.

I have reloaded the type of cases you have on hand, Chedite-type, with parallel ribbed walls.

Thank you for responding.


I used wads designed for Winchester AA compression formed, tapered wall cases, and did not have any problems. However, the Chedite plastic seems more brittle and thinner when compared to the Winchester AA cf cases. So, I would not expect to get as many reloads from the Chedite cases.

A valid expectation. As mentioned below, they were bought for a specific job and have done it. The matter of reloading was not the main intention but now that I have "lotsa" empty hulls..............



If I was going to use a significant number of Chedite cases I would have bought the correct wads for parallel sided cases, to avoid the potential problem of powder migrating past the wad


I was intending to use Winchester WAA12 wads as I have a goodly quantity of them Sadly I can not find any mention in their specss as to use in parallel or non parallel sided hulls.. So will just have to try I suppose.

if you charging case with smelly,dirty black stuff....pressure wont be an issue from what Ive seen....modern stuff,best to stick to manuals recipe as close as you can....I did lots of "experimenting" with the wee 410 and never ran into trouble... in a break open gun you have fair leeway IN MY OPINION.... any force going backwards is into a flat surface,so its EASIER to push out the barrel instead.....a semi of pump.....not so much and they fussy huas ,if your crimp or sizing is off they fail to load...with break open you can get away with all sorts of sins.... the u/o is fussier than a SxS....