Thread: Reloading 22 Hornet (The Original) – Optimal Canada Goose Load

@Marty Henry
I don't know much about the K-Hornet, other than it has an angled shoulder to stop the cases stretching, a bigger powder capacity and therefore higher velocity (and presumably higher pressure. Until recently I didn't even know there was such a thing as a K. What I have learnt about the K is through this forum and YouTube.

What I do know about brass is it is both malleable and ductile, which means it can be both easily shape, bent and stretched. The process of fire forming a standard 22 Hornet to K is going to; reshape, bend and stretch the brass. Logically that would make the brass thinner and therefore more likely to split around the neck. No surprises there. It's just physics and metal fatigue.

I love the quote, "Victory loves preparation!" So unless your mate is intentionally setting self up to fail, this is what is suggest;
- Dump or sell the "Onc fired," formed brass
- Buy some brand new , high quality brass, Norms, Sako, Remington (if there is such a thing?)
- Don't buy cheap shitty brass, unless you want cheap shitty results
- Work up a good, efficient, minimal load which groups well and provides good terminal results
- Avoid HOT, maximum loads, they will shorten brass life, and may not be as accurate, or consistent as a mid-weight load. I think some reloaders set themselves up to fail by chasing the BIGGEST compressed powder charge that they can squeeze into the case. Then to conversation goes, "Look at me I'm getting 10,000 feet per second out of my Hornet, but the cases are splitting, the primers are popping, I've buggered the face of my bolt and I have to knock each case out with my cleaning rod!? Do you think I'm loading them to hot!?" No shit Sherlock!

Victory loves preparation, so follow the process set out in the Good Book and don't skip bits.

A lot of people say reloading Hornet is hard and fiddle, the cases deform and wha, wha, wha.... I find it easy and enjoyable. But I also spend a lot of time prepping my cases. I think the inside neck chamfer is critical, as is clean out the flash hole every single time!!!

A lot of people talk about standard 22 Hornet milk bottle shape stretching a lot with firing. I check and see trim every case to 1.393 and have been surprised to find some are not stretching at all. Again use quality brass.

Of all the cases I've fired, resized and reloaded I think I might find 5 in 100, or perhaps only 3 in 100 split or can't be reused. Much of my brass is only on second or third reload, but one standard Hornet owner on this forum reckons he gets 18 or 20 reloads out of a case, so if your mate is getting rapid, repeat splitting, they need to rethink their processes.

On closing I would like to put these questions to K HORNET owners and reloaders;
- Do you use fire formed brass or new factory cases?
- Does fire formed brass spot more often?
- Best brand for longevity?
- Is cheap brass as good or better than expensive brass?
- do you have problems with the neck splitting or head separation?
- What's you bet load?
- Are you running HOT - MEDIUM - COLD loads?
- How many reloads are you get from each case?