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Thread: Reloading .222 - Problems

  1. #1
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    Reloading .222 - Problems

    I have been reloading rifle and shotgun for years. In recent times I have acquired a SAKO .222 and have been trying reloads for it. Started with second hand cases and that was a disaster! They have now gone to recycling!. New Winchester brass, IMR3031 powder and several projectiles 50gr to 53gr. CCI and Federal Premium primers.

    I have been successful with my 303 and 308 reloads but now I am having real issues.

    If I use Norma or Sako factory ammo I can shoot nice tight groups (3 shots all touching - clover leaf or better) but at 30m I would expect that!

    However if I then try my reloads they shoot 1.5 - 2 inch groups low and 2 - inch right.

    Back to the factory ammo - spot on .... except Federal which are as bad as the reloads.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Going to need a bit more information on how you've approached the load development. Your full process from start to finish...

    Winchester brass can be rather crap. Getting good brass and preparing it well is half the battle sometimes.
    caberslash likes this.
    Resident 6.5 Grendel aficionado.

  3. #3
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    Shame to send them to recycling if in any qty, might suit someone else. I've had a mixed lot of 2nd hand brass and no issues out of a BSA CF2 including with 3031.
    Micky Duck likes this.
    I know a lot but it seems less every day...

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    which projectiles are you trying???? I believe the trebly likes em short..... the slower twist barrel wont stabalize a lot of the new longer sleaker jobbies .
    are you setting up seater die using one of the factory loads with closest TYPE of projectile??? thus giving you similar jump to rifling.....
    75/15/10 black powder matters

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    Nothing wrong with used brass. Clean it by SSM. Deprime. Anneal. FLS. but throw away your expander. Trim all cases to same length. Do it to maxi length. Clean with SSM again. I load for 4 Vixens. Use 748. Micky Duck is right the triple deuce unlike Mae West prefers them short. We go 2.120.My mate checks his zero by head shooting plovers. We also primer pocket uniform with a Sinclair and also flash hole with a Lyman chucked in the portable drill.

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    Also they use 60gr Hornady. They harvest truck loads of fallow with their rifles. Same brew all the time for them.
    Micky Duck likes this.

  7. #7
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    It’s possibly a 1:14 twist barrel, try 40gn projectiles, BM2 powder works well.
    Randomandrews likes this.
    Shut up, get out & start pushing!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by outdoorlad View Post
    It’s possibly a 1:14 twist barrel, try 40gn projectiles, BM2 powder works well.
    All .222's have 1:14" barrels and will handle 50 - 53 grain bullets mine will shoot Sierra 63 grain HP's, If it shoots Norma factory ammo
    there is nothing worry with the rifle,
    It has to be the reloads at fault IMR 3031 is a perfectly good powder choice Hornady lists 21.3 grain as a start load for their 52-53grain bullets 22.6 is max
    I use 2207 with mine 18.6 - 20.5 is the load range.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeRei View Post
    Nothing wrong with used brass. Clean it by SSM. Deprime. Anneal. FLS. but throw away your expander. Trim all cases to same length. Do it to maxi length. Clean with SSM again. I load for 4 Vixens. Use 748. Micky Duck is right the triple deuce unlike Mae West prefers them short. We go 2.120.My mate checks his zero by head shooting plovers. We also primer pocket uniform with a Sinclair and also flash hole with a Lyman chucked in the portable drill.
    Most of that gear isn't required either.

    .222 Lee Loader will make very good ammo.

    Think the Oz Roo shooting mob killed legions with ammo made off the old Simplex press and dies which couldn't full length size (wonder how their tallies stack up to the NZ deer cullers... )
    Micky Duck likes this.

  10. #10
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    You have been successful reloading other chambering , fired cases prepped as you have been doing should not make that much difference at 30 m . 222 normally should be easy to get reasonable accuracy, so probably telling Grandma how to suck eggs.
    Replicate a bought round, they are shooting well.
    Check the length to ogive, pull one apart check projectile weight and what is it, may tell you on the packet. Fire a bought round over a chrony to establish FPS.
    Use "Quick load" if you have access or 'Gordens reloading tool' which is free to figure out a powder & how much to replicate the speed, safey.
    Ya it’s playtime, what us Reloaders live for.
    erniec and Micky Duck like this.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ifonlypn View Post
    I have been reloading rifle and shotgun for years. In recent times I have acquired a SAKO .222 and have been trying reloads for it. Started with second hand cases and that was a disaster! They have now gone to recycling!. New Winchester brass, IMR3031 powder and several projectiles 50gr to 53gr. CCI and Federal Premium primers.

    I have been successful with my 303 and 308 reloads but now I am having real issues.

    If I use Norma or Sako factory ammo I can shoot nice tight groups (3 shots all touching - clover leaf or better) but at 30m I would expect that!

    However if I then try my reloads they shoot 1.5 - 2 inch groups low and 2 - inch right.

    Back to the factory ammo - spot on .... except Federal which are as bad as the reloads.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Greetings @ifonlypn,
    As others have said the problem is with the reloads. I would stick with one projectile until you get the problem sorted. You said you have fired Sako and Norma cartridges so presumably have the cases so you could test some loads in one of those. If they still shoot like shit then it is likely not the Winchester cases. Next I would try a different powder. I have been testing some .222 loads with BM8208 in Sako brass and 55 grain projectiles and it shot like your Sako ammo. BM2 should also be great as previously mentioned. You are using two types of primers so pick one and stick with it. The key to trouble shooting is to change one thing at a time. I have assumed that you did not full length size your new brass before loading, this can result in poor accuracy until fire formed. From here it is down to loading technique. See if you can get a local handloader with plenty of experience to look over your processes and would likely would have some simple suggestions that you won't get from a forum.
    Regards Grandpamac.

  12. #12
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    Hi Jhon. Basically agree esp. as far as my 308 reloading goes. However in the 222 cases I purchased I had 3 show split damage and 1 even lost its neck and left it in the chamber! My guess is that they were not "Once Fired".
    Micky Duck likes this.

  13. #13
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    Thanks all for your input. Some good suggestions to follow up. Had to change primers as CCI were not available. I will check my seating die against a factory load to ensure the jump is the same. Actually that is an expression new to me so thanks. My recent reloads were with 53gr Norma (not boattail) have plenty of them so will keep trying with different loads. Will look to try a different powder when I can find some. Some components very difficult at present. But I guess you all know that.

  14. #14
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    Hope you get it sorted. If you're successfully loading your .308 then the 222 is exactly the same process. Nothing mystical about it.
    Good brass trimmed to length, 19 or so Gr 2207, a 50 gr pill, and you're good to go

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ifonlypn View Post
    Thanks all for your input. Some good suggestions to follow up. Had to change primers as CCI were not available. I will check my seating die against a factory load to ensure the jump is the same. Actually that is an expression new to me so thanks. My recent reloads were with 53gr Norma (not boattail) have plenty of them so will keep trying with different loads. Will look to try a different powder when I can find some. Some components very difficult at present. But I guess you all know that.
    so to do this...place loaded factory round in press and lift up into a screwed in seating die with the seating stem backed out/up....you can let go of ram handle completely,start screwing stem down untill you see handle start to twitch like your old fella when pretty lass walks past!!!!! stop and try seating new projectile in case....it SHOULD be relatively close in overall length to the factory round and because the die touches projectile somewhere down the curvy skinny bit/oglive it should be a relatively similar jump into the rifling....
    75/15/10 black powder matters

 

 

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