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Righto, could anyone enlighten me on what reloading equipment I would need to start out reloading?
Have allways used shop bought ammo without any issues, but with old lock down I thought I would have been a good time to do some research on what to purchase, I hunt with 223 and 7mm08, any info would be greatly appreciated! All the best stay safe, be good and if you can't be good then be careful!!
I have just been gathering a bit of reloading gear together myself and $4000 later Im getting close.
In the current climate probably not a good time to start as its a sellers market and there is a shortage of everything but enough $ will buy anything.
Only advice would be to buy good quality but others on here will be able to help you better.
Good luck.
Greetings @Countryside,
I did a thread a while back on equipment for handloading and will try to dig it up for you later today. The first bit of advice on first steps is to try and find a mentor. This would be an older handloader who can take you through the steps so you understand the reasons behind them. They will also help you set up the equipment once you purchase your own. They will also have made mistakes in their early handloading years and can save you repeating them.
Regards Grandpamac.
Stuck case remover.
The advice I offered (just a couple of days ago):
Find a reloader locally who'll take you under his (or her) wing and mentor you.
Find & join a club & range, target shooting or hunting, locally where you can shoot and test your loads.
Listen carefully, think about it, use what works for you and your setup.
When you do buy stuff, buy quality. It pays off in the long run.
Think about your desired, required, accuracy. How much do you really need to do, especially in case preparation?
Online videos can be helpful, but again you need to filter out what will work for you and what won't.
If everything else fails ask here.
You'll get some useful answers, some less useful answers and some rubbish. You'll have to filter (again).
Be patient, no isn't a good time to be purchasing.
Keep a lookout for quality second hand gear.
what kind of budget do you have? I would probably look at the hornady classic reloading kit ($899), dies for each caliber ( $50-119) case trimming gear, probaly something bench mounted over the lee stuff ($150-300 ) decent set of calipers ($80+ ) then if you can find components thats probaly gonna be at least $300 for primers maybe 2 different powders and a range of projectiles, probably something else ive forgoten, but if your in no rush like I was I spent probably about 2 years buying used stuff at good prices at gun shows, this form, trade me etc and i got it alot cheaper...
I don't like buy once cry once. How can you buy once if you don't know what you want. Better to start off cheap (try someone else's gear, secondhand etc.) and then invest in quality once you have a good idea on what you want. Also don't be afraid of Lee.
As for minimal kit:
Chronograph or access to one (I consider this a must)
Reloading handbook or online data (from a reputable source)
Beam scales
Powder dippers
Press
Priming tool (if not included with the press)
Calipers (vernier or dial)
Case trimmer
Chamfer and de-bur tool, primer pocket cleaner (usually bought as a set)
Two die set (full length and seating)
Shell holder
Case lube
Extras:
Case neck brush
Bullet comparator
Headspace comparator (to setup your sizing die for maximum brass life)
Greetings @Countryside,
The thread I mentioned was called "Keeping it Simple for New Handloaders" and the last post was on 13/01/21. I suggest you have a look at it and (I can't stress this too much) find a mentor. Join one of the shooting clubs, NZDA or similar which should get you on the right track. I loaded my first cartridge about 1970 and I still learn things damn near every time I sit down at the bench. It is hard to provide the level of detail you need in posts or even threads and U tube can be good, bad or indifferent all in the same one. Getting a manual, mentioned above, is a good start especially one of the older ones. Most mentors, including me, just do it for the joy of seeing someone learn what can be an extremely rewarding pastime. In 1980 I subscribed to Handloader mag and still do. This has advanced my learning no end. You may not need much of what you may be told by some is absolutely essential kit. I am a very low tech handloader, originally out of necessity and more recently by choice. Please ask me any questions you have.
Regards Grandpamac
Some good bugger put this search advice up.
Works a charm
Just substitute for the 222 bit
site:nzhuntingandshooting.co.nz .222
PS a Lee kit will get you going.
Some of us started with the old whack a mole ones.
You are in Auckland, join one of the NZDA branches there are two of them even if only for one year you will learn more from their members thanQuote:
Originally Posted by Countryside
going it alone they both have Ranges, I think Auckland branch has a Web page check them out before spend any money on gear But do buy a Reloading
Manual first the Hornady is good and most shooters use Hornady projectiles.
There are no shortcuts in reloading. There's a rather delightful long winded old fella on YouTube who can tell you all you need to know to get started and he knows what he is talking about..Google Gunblue490 and look for his series on reloading and settle back
Thanks for all the info! Really appreciate it cheers
Do tell, or at least point me in the right direction.Quote:
Originally Posted by mimms2
Yes method I use but once determined I measure the result with a comparator and note that reading for future use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonno
You don't have to have a comparator you can just try each case as you size it. I do at any rate. Seen many a shooter either on the range and sadly out hunting unable to close bolt on freshly full length sized brass.
Method only works properly if your bolt doesn't have a plunge ejector. The striker/firing pin assembly need removing. Otherwise you cannot get the feel when closing the bolt. Plunge efector will push case fwd and give a false feel. Progressively size/adjust until bolt just closes. I aim for 1 thou clearance on my rifles.
And as warned many times by GPM don't oversize. Can lead to head seperation.
Most bolts once striker/firing pin assembly is removed and bolt closed in action will have a small fwd and backward slop say maybe 5 thou. It is important to not oversize and get outside that slop into no man's land. Yes, the bolt drops nicely but you have no idea how much you may have oversized by.
I used to adjust the die so there was slight feel at the final part of the bolt closure. Have gone away from that and use the 1 thou clearance.
You don't want to be setting back more than say 3 thou as you will then begin to get head seperation onset.
I have found when full length sizing size a case, try it, and If further adjustment is needed select another case, make the adjustment, try this case.
What I found is that if using the same case and making small adjustments till satisfactory bolt closure the next case sized ends up oversized.
I think this is caused by hysteresis/springback with small adjustments.
However, I now anneal every firing so the above may hold hold true anymore.
I reload for one deer rifle (6.5x55) and do it as an extension of my shooting hobby. I have not saved any money doing if but I am (pretty) confident my reloads are more accurate than factory.
I bought a Lee anniversary reloading kit and it is fit for my purpose. There is everything in the Lee kit you need to get going and if you look at the list from @Magnetite minus the comments from @mimms2 you pretty much have the Lee kit. The Lee kit has a manual and a quick start guide too.
I have added a set of digital calipers and the thingy to measure OAL from the olgive as well as a neck resizing die.
Using the Lee power thrower and scales is a slow process but I can get accuracy down to single grains (individual powder pieces, not grains of weight) of powder and I only reload for one rifle so I don't care.
I do spend a lot of time f***ing around when I seat my projectile to ensure the OAL is exactly what I want and I suspect a higher quality press might help here but again, one rifle, hobby, I enjoy it.
The Lee is not to everyone's taste and is a "less expensive" set when compared to others but it is fit for my purpose, it might be fit for yours
Cheers
Countryside, having a mentor to guide you would be a great way to dip a toe in and hopefully a local can offer an olive branch. I often offer my services to folks getting started. if they take it up it's up to them, but i encourage you to think on it.
You don't need to spend a fortune to reload quality ammunition. If you're needs are a small volume each year, say a few hundred per rifle and two rifles. You can load with a lee hand tool, a set of scales or dippers, a lube pad and lube. A set of verniers will also help. I did it this way all through uni in my dorm and worked just fine.
Next step up is a small press (hand or bench) and dies. Like any hobby you can spend as much or as little as you want depending on your objectives.
Shit I got cracking for about $250Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mm Rem Mag
That didn't even amount to 10% of my scales alone :XD:Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelton
Sorry 20%
me to...and i actually LIKE the gear made by LEE...Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelton
Lee make some good gear. Their single stage presses are awesome value for money and are right up there in quality. I spent a lot of time because I'm bloody minded getting an old Pro 1000 working properly after someone gave it to me in bits in a box but I would not wish one of those on a beginner. The Dillon 550 is twice the price but a superb bit of kit for volume. All my rifle loading I do on a combination of an old Lee 3 hole Turret, a Lee Challenger single stage cast aluminum press and a Lee heavy cast iron classic single stage. Only really need one but hey.... The old 3 hole turret is amazing for what it can put out for a cheap old press.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Ive had lee challenger forever...and Mrs spotted a 3 turret press in bargain bin for $15 so Ive got one of them now too....there is a bit of slack in it but once adjusted to take it into account....my micrometre says its doing job just as good.
The play in Lee turret presses is a non-issue that people who don't know how they work love to diss them with. Yes there is play, it has no effect on the finished goods, they are designed to have the play in them which is taken up in action and has zero effect on any of the reloading processes. The worst thing about the old 3 hole turret was the auto index. Totally unreliable and frustrating. Ultimately abandoned by Lee. So a bit agricultural for volume Pistol loading with manual index but still doable. Rifle is a diffent story. The dies can be set up and left. You can then do batch mode or take a case from size and decap to powder to bullet seating and a finished round. The turrets are cheap enough to have several calibres permanently setup. Great for storing the dies. Folk have cottoned on I think and you'd be lucky to find one for $15 these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
$30 new for the 3 hole turret itself...not the press just the bit the dies screw into...yes spotted the indexing COULD be issue....but I RECKON a couple of felt pen marks will do fine...it doesnt move much and I worked out the slack bit on first round...seated 40 .270 rounds without issue and micrometre says they all same length overall...so it works fine.......just as well as unscrewed ols challenger to fit this one on bench...it has been altered,one of the four legs has been removed and a cut up projectie box held in by bolt in its place to catch primers as the y pop......its rock solid on three so cant see any issue.
LOLLLLQuote:
Originally Posted by jakewire
Lee and Dillon dies have published methods for using the die itself to remove a stuck case. just read the directions BEFORE you commence operations. otherwise you're back to drill 'n tap...Quote:
Originally Posted by keneff