Reloading military brass

Hey guys,
So I've heard so many arguments about the differences between 223 and 5.56, and 7.62x51 and 308 (military vs non military stuff). Talking about case thickness, increased pressure etc etc and how there's a difference. Yet I've also heard many people say it's a load of crap and if you can get the military primers out of the brass initially, you can load it up as it's no different.

I was wondering what your take is on it? (if you know) in the context of reloading, is there any real difference (other than having a tough primer to get out) between say, Remington 308 brass and this military stuff.

I've just got a few hundred once fired, resized, deprimed and cleaned bits of military 308 brass. Ready to load. Is there anything I have to watch out for?

Weight check em and bin any really heavy or light then work up

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It is thicker walled (or at least heavier so presumably thicker wall / web) so approach max loads with caution

It is very inconsistent between and within headstamps so dont expect "BR" accuracy

Primer crimps are a one time hassle to cut out with your case neck chamfer tool

Dunno really - if you are rattling off a gas gun then mint, if you care about things then buy a box of Lapua and never look back...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cyclist

It is thicker walled (or at least heavier so presumably thicker wall / web) so approach max loads with caution

It is very inconsistent between and within headstamps so dont expect "BR" accuracy

---

I should be so lucky to be able to run a 308 gas gun :P one day

Well that's something I've heard loads of people say... thicker walled...

I've just read a bunch of articles where some people have actually weighed, measured, checked the internal case volume etc and basically... they seemed to think there's no difference. In fact there's more variance between the civilian brass brands, and Federal came out on average heavier than the military stuff. But more people are saying there is a difference.

The below article was one but that's referencing 223/5.56 so probably isn't applicable.

Is 5.56x45 military brass thicker than .223 commercial brass?

I really want to know the truth to it. I've got a whole bunch of this stuff and I'm planning on necking it down to 7mm for my 708m for a combination of funsies and because some of my other brass is getting a bit tired.

I'll do some checking myself. Gotta find the time to have a play with it though.

The Rifleman's Journal: Cartridges: 1000 Yard .308 Case Capacity and Other Problems
probably way more than you'll ever want to know,sift and pick out the gems.This guy knows his onions.Good for a wet day:yarr:
articles index

Military cases can also be Berdan primed (two flash holes inbuilt anvil) as opposed to Boxer Primed (one flash hole no built in anvil).
Centerfire ammunition - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

If you miss even one "Berdan Primed Case" you will break your decapping pin.

That said I use military brass all the time for reloading and have never had any issues except for the above.

I dont reload any Berdan Primed cases but have done so in the past and know of people who still do.

Cheers
Pete

I use 7.62 x 51 brass, sorted by brand and year. The same as not mixing .308 by brand.
If you start from minimum powder load for developing any load, no worries.

As mentioned, removing the primer crimp is a once off.

Good list (not complete) for brass, to let you watch out for Berdan primers.

Argentine, '83, [ FLB ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. Other HS's FM or FS

Australian, '66, [MF ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant. MF L2A2
Australian, '70, [MF ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant.
Australian, '83, [AFF ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant.
Australian, '83, [MF ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant.
Australian, '85, [AFF ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant.
Australian, '87, [AFF ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant.
Australian, '88, [AFF ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant.
Australian, '89, [MF ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant. MF L2A2
Australian, '90, [AFF ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant.
Australian, '91, [AFF ], Boxer, ring crimp with purple primer sealant.
Australian, '92, [ ADI ], Boxer, ring crimp with purple primer sealant.

Austria, '75, [ HP ], Berdan, three star crimp with dark green primer sealant. Other HS's H
Austria, '78, [ HP ], Berdan, three star crimp with no primer sealant visible.
Austria, '79, [ *79* ], Boxer, three star crimp with light green primer sealant.
Austria, '80, [ *80* ], Boxer, three star crimp with light green primer sealant.

Belgium, '64, [ FN ], Berdan, three star crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Belgium, '77, [ FN ], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant. NATO Cross
Belgium, '80, [ FNB ], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant. NATO Cross

Bosnian, '03, [IK], Boxer, ring crimp with bright red primer sealant. 7.62x51 IK

British, '84, [ RG ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant. (Radway Green)
British, '85, [ RG ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant. NATO Cross
British, '90, [ RG ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
British, '93, [ RG ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant. NATO Cross
British, '95, [ RG ], Berdan, ring crimp with purple primer sealant. NATO Cross

Canadian '68, [ IVI ], Boxer, ring crimp with no primer sealant visible. NATO Cross
Canadian '70, [ IVI ], Boxer, ring crimp with no primer sealant visible. NATO Cross

Chile, '73, [ F. ], Berdan, ring crimp with dark green primer sealant. NATO Letters
Chile, '74, [ F. ], Berdan, ring crimp with dark green primer sealant. NATO Letters
Chile, '76, [ F. ], Berdan, ring crimp with dark green primer sealant. NATO Letters

Czechoslovakia, '69, [ ZV ], Berdan, ring crimp with black primer sealant.
Czech Republic, '82, [O O], Berdan, ring crimp with dark red primer sealant.

Denmark, '63, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant. NATO Cross
Denmark, '76, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant.
Denmark, '78, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant.
Denmark, '81, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant.
Denmark, '82, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '83, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '84, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '85, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '86, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '87, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '88, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '91, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '92, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '93, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '95, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Denmark, '96, [AMA], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.


German, '59, [ MEN ], Berdan, three star crimp with no primer sealant visible. NATO Logo
German, '59, [ MS ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Logo
German, '60, [ MS ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Logo
German, '69, [ MEN ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Logo
German, '76, [ DAG ], Boxer, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Logo
German, '88, [ MEN ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Logo
German, '93, [ DAG ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Logo
German, '94, [ MEN ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Logo

Greek, '80, [HXP ], Boxer, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Cross

Indian, '78, [ OFV ], Boxer, ring crimp with no primer sealant visible.
Indian, '93, [ KF ], Boxer, ring crimp with no primer sealant visible.
Indian, '97, [ OFV ], Boxer, ring crimp with no primer sealant visible.

Indonesian, '85, [ PINDAD ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.

Israel, '70, [ת צ], ring crimp with red primer sealant visible. month-year
Israel, '71, [ת צ], ring crimp with red primer sealant visible. month-year
Israel, '72, [ת צ], ring crimp with red primer sealant visible. month-year
Israel, '73, [ת צ], ring crimp with red primer sealant visible. month-year
Israel, '74, [ת צ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant visible. month-year
Israel, '75, [ת צ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant visible.
Israel, '76, [ת צ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant visible.
Israel, '84, [IMI], Boxer, ring crimp with purple primer sealant visible.

Lake City, '58, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '63, [ LC Match ], Boxer, zero crimp with red primer sealant. year
Lake City, '64, [ LC MATCH], Boxer, zero crimp with red primer sealant. MATCH LC year M 118
Lake City, '65, [ LC Match ], Boxer, zero crimp with purple primer sealant. MATCH FA year M 118
Lake City, '66, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with purple primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '66, [ LC MATCH], Boxer, zero crimp with red primer sealant. MATCH LC year M 118
Lake City, '70, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with light red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '70, [ LC Match ], Boxer, zero crimp with green primer sealant. MATCH LC year M 118
Lake City, '71, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '81, [ LC Match ], Boxer, zero crimp with purple primer sealant. year
Lake City, '82, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant.
Lake City, '84, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '85, [ LC Match ], Boxer, zero crimp with red primer sealant. year
Lake City, '86, [ LC Match ], Boxer, zero crimp with red primer sealant. MATCH LC year M 852
Lake City, '87, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '88, [ LC Match ], Boxer, zero crimp with red primer sealant. year NATO Cross M 118 SB
Lake City, '88, [ LC Match ], Boxer, zero crimp with red primer sealant. MATCH LC year M 852
Lake City, '89, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '90, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '91, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '91, [ LC MATCH], Boxer, zero crimp with red primer sealant.
Lake City, '94, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '95, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '98, [ LC ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Lake City, '04, [ LC LR ], Boxer, zero crimp with red primer sealant.

Lithuanian, '03, [ GGG ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant.
Lithuanian, '04, [ GGG ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant.

Malaysia, '82, [ MAL ], Berdan, three star crimp with dark red primer sealant. MAL 7.62 4-82
Malaysia, '83, [ MAL ], Berdan, three star crimp with dark red primer sealant. MAL 7.62 5-83

Nigeria, '70, [OFN ], Berdan, three star crimp with dark green primer sealant. O.F.N. 34-70 7.62x51

Pakistan, '79, [ POF ], Berdan, ring crimp with light red primer sealant.
Pakistan, '80, [ POF ], Berdan, ring crimp with light red primer sealant.

Paraguay, '79, [MDRP ], Berdan, ring crimp with light red primer sealant. 7.62x51 79-MDRP (France)
Paraguay, '80, [MDRP ], Boxer, ring crimp with light red primer sealant. 7.62x51 80 MDRP (Israel)

Portuguese, '76, [ FNM ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Cross
Portuguese, '78, [ BF ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Cross
Portuguese, '78, [ FNM ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Cross
Portuguese, '79, [ BF ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Portuguese, '80, [ BF ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. NATO Cross
Portuguese, '81, [ FNM ], Berdan, three star crimp with no primer sealant visible.
Portuguese, '82, [ FNM ], Berdan, three star crimp with no primer sealant visible.
Portuguese, '92, [ FNM ], Berdan, ring crimp with green primer sealant.

Remington, '67, [RA ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross

Serbia, '89, [ nny ], Berdan, ring crimp with red/orange primer sealant.
Serbia, '308 WIN, [ nny ], Boxer, ring crimp with red/orange primer sealant. '02

Singapore, '77, [ GG ], Berdan, ring crimp with light green primer sealant. 7.62 XX are dates
Singapore, '86, [ HF ], Berdan, ring crimp with light green primer sealant.

Spain, '80, [ SB ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant. (Santa Barbra)

South Africa, '77 [ R1M1 ], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant. 7.62 R1M1 A 77
South Africa, '79 [ R1M1 ], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant. 7.62 R1M1 A 79
South Africa, '80 [ R1M1 ], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant. 7.62 R1M1 WA 80
South Africa, '81 [ R1M1 ], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant. 7.62 R1M1 B 81
South Africa, '84 [ 12 ], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant. 12 84
South Africa, '98 [ 98 ], Berdan, three star crimp with purple primer sealant. 7.62mm 98 089D98

Sweden, '66, [ SM ], Berdan, three star crimp with green primer sealant.
Sweden, '72, [ 070 ], Berdan, three star crimp with dark purple primer sealant.

Twin Cities, '67, [TW ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
Twin Cities, '69, [TW ], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross

United States, '64, [WRA], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
United States, '66, [WRA], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant. NATO Cross
United States, '86, [WCC], Boxer, ring crimp with red primer sealant.
United States, '05, [FC], Boxer, ring crimp with purple primer sealant. 7.62 NATO Cross
United States, '10, [FC], Boxer, ring crimp with blue primer sealant. 7.62-M1A
United States, '11, [FC], Boxer, ring crimp with blue primer sealant. 7.62-M1A

Venezuelan, '89, [CAVIM ], Berdan, ring crimp with light green primer sealant.
Venezuelan, '90, [CAVIM ], Berdan, ring crimp with light green primer sealant.
Venezuelan, '90, [CAVIM ], Boxer, ring crimp with light green primer sealant silver primer.

Fark !

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by RimfireNZ

I should be so lucky to be able to run a 308 gas gun :P one day

Well that's something I've heard loads of people say... thicker walled...

I've just read a bunch of articles where some people have actually weighed, measured, checked the internal case volume etc and basically... they seemed to think there's no difference. In fact there's more variance between the civilian brass brands, and Federal came out on average heavier than the military stuff. But more people are saying there is a difference.

The below article was one but that's referencing 223/5.56 so probably isn't applicable.

Is 5.56x45 military brass thicker than .223 commercial brass?

I really want to know the truth to it. I've got a whole bunch of this stuff and I'm planning on necking it down to 7mm for my 708m for a combination of funsies and because some of my other brass is getting a bit tired.

I'll do some checking myself. Gotta find the time to have a play with it though.

---

I missed that bit, for a bolt action 7mm-08, you may have to neck turn the brass if necked down.

May but probably not

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Fek knows then! I have reloaded a fair old bit of mil .223 brass (TZZ, RG, JG, CJ, LC currently on the shelf) and and it is

A: Heavy and very low capacity compared the the Hornady stuff I use and
B: Crap

I can get 28.5 gn of 2206H into the Horny stuff and about 26 gn into most mil - that seems to me like it has less internal capacity or something? No doubt the internet will prove me wrong though :ORLY:

As above, unless you are broke or need to for some unknown reason just buy good brass and never think about it! 7/08 cases should get 10+ loads or more if you anneal once in a blue moon. 100 cases will last a fair old while of normal shooting (or just buy 50 Noslers or similar). I understand the appeal of using what you have and putting that big bag of brass to use etc, however often having lots of cases sounds good but means you easily get into the mess of having cases with an unknown number of firings / trim length / neck sized or full etc etc. Its easier to "only" have 50 or 100 and keep track of them.

If I only had 50 then I could keep track easily but have to reload them all again half way though a shooting competition day.

Yeah and I dont suspect that anybody wanting to neck Mil .308 down to 7/08 is shooting BR...

I have 5k+ cases and they are in pretty good order, it wasnt always like that and it was a major shitstorm :x_x:

I picked up some FNB 5.56 brass, now that was the worse I've ever seen. Flash holes and primer pockets not even in line with the brass.

Cheers Dogmatix. By the way this all appears to be Lake City 07 stuff. It's only got a single primer hole.

I had a try at necking down to 7mm... didn't go well. I'm gonna start a new thread shortly.

I'm just doing this as a learning exercise. I use Remington brass generally and am very picky about my reloads.

I just want to make a 7mm out of a 308 that is able to fire so I can feel like a clever bastard :)

Did a few recently just for the experience. Do not know how others do them but I started by sizing first with 308 dies with expander plug removed. Then put a reasonable chamfer on the neck and then into 7mm neck die. Effort required was quite low.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zimmer

Did a few recently just for the experience. Do not know how others do them but I started by sizing first with 308 dies with expander plug removed. Then put a reasonable chamfer on the neck and then into 7mm neck die. Effort required was quite low.

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That's what i did from 308 to 243 however i cheated and annealed before goin to the 243 die

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VC did you use a 243 neck or FLS die?

Full length everything

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by zimmer

Did a few recently just for the experience. Do not know how others do them but I started by sizing first with 308 dies with expander plug removed. Then put a reasonable chamfer on the neck and then into 7mm neck die. Effort required was quite low.

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Well just whacking it through the 7mm die hasn't worked out for me :P

I'll try adjusting the die a bit and giving it another go tomorrow.

Go and vivid one of the ones you have done and try to chamber.
Post pic of result

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When I neck down brass, I anneal the cases first. I then body size with a body die. Then I full size, more steps, but easier to do and less likely to stuff your F/L die by getting a stuck case.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RimfireNZ

Cheers Dogmatix. By the way this all appears to be Lake City 07 stuff. It's only got a single primer hole.

I had a try at necking down to 7mm... didn't go well. I'm gonna start a new thread shortly.

I'm just doing this as a learning exercise. I use Remington brass generally and am very picky about my reloads.

I just want to make a 7mm out of a 308 that is able to fire so I can feel like a clever bastard :)

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Try sizing down and trimming 300 x .270 Win cases into .308 Win then!:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Full length everything

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VC - I know another thread has been started but I f'd up my original question to you in this thread .. I meant to ask do you go straight to the FLS die or do you do an intermediate step with a neck die. And I guess the answer will be go straight to FLS? No much is gained if anything by using the neck die first?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zimmer

VC - I know another thread has been started but I f'd up my original question to you in this thread .. I meant to ask do you go straight to the FLS die or do you do an intermediate step with a neck die. And I guess the answer will be go straight to FLS? No much is gained if anything by using the neck die first?

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Yea i went 308fl with expander removed,aneal ,243 fl
can do it without the aneal tho.
Don't have a 243 neck die .
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Hi all, I know that I'm late to chime in on this but I run a NEA-15 in 5.56 NATO and a Tikka T3 in 308 Win, I use mil brass to cut down costs. I find that brass is brass if done right.
5.56 NATO runs at a higher pressure than .223 Rem and the .308 Win has a higher pressure than the 7.62 NATO.
As with any new batch of brass you should start from new, you can use the last load in your log but only if the brass is the same brand (i.e. Remington with Remington, ADI with ADI).
I would NOT use the load data that I made for commercial brass in mil brass however I go back to the powder websites and do another work up (like you should when you change projectile weights).

These are my steps:
1) Check to make sure they use a boxer primer*
2) Deprime
3) Swage primer pocket (I use the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager)**
4) Deburr the flash hole**
5) Clean (I use a Simple Green with warm to hot water to get the range or suppressor crap off, then I tumble)
6) Full length or small based die resize
7) Trim (to the stated length in your reloading manual), Chamfer, Deburr***
8) Prime
9) Powder
10) Projectile
11) SHOOT!!!!! and have fun.

* Is for Mil brass (only needed to be done once in the case life)
** Is for both Mil and commercial brass (only needed to be done once in the case life)
*** Is for both Mil and commercial brass (Repeat only as necessary i.e. when the case length is to the max case length)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by P38

Military cases can also be Berdan primed (two flash holes inbuilt anvil) as opposed to Boxer Primed (one flash hole no built in anvil).
Centerfire ammunition - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

If you miss even one "Berdan Primed Case" you will break your decapping pin.

That said I use military brass all the time for reloading and have never had any issues except for the above.

I dont reload any Berdan Primed cases but have done so in the past and know of people who still do.

Cheers
Pete

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I've got quite a few berdan pimed 577/450 cases, I've managed to deprive them hydraulically not a good process! Split about 20% at the shoulders, but hey they were cheap. Now gonna turn out the primer pocket to fit shotgun primer, for me makes my cases more user friendly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RimfireNZ

Hey guys,
So I've heard so many arguments about the differences between 223 and 5.56, and 7.62x51 and 308 (military vs non military stuff). Talking about case thickness, increased pressure etc etc and how there's a difference. Yet I've also heard many people say it's a load of crap and if you can get the military primers out of the brass initially, you can load it up as it's no different.

I was wondering what your take is on it? (if you know) in the context of reloading, is there any real difference (other than having a tough primer to get out) between say, Remington 308 brass and this military stuff.

I've just got a few hundred once fired, resized, deprimed and cleaned bits of military 308 brass. Ready to load. Is there anything I have to watch out for?

---

The usual, so load at the minimum, go up in 1gr loads of 5 (assuming 308w) to give a group per load. When going to the range dont take any max loads with you the first time, then you wont be tempted to be silly. Dont load any hotter than 45gr ADI 2208.

Military brass is usually heavier walled as well as crimped. If you have a pet load in civilian brass then go at least 1 grain lower if switching to say ADI brass and work back up (2 grain if near max load).

Remington is supposed to be pretty thin, I have none so I cannot comment directly. ADI military brass however often gives the same velocity as lapua competition brass but in the region of 0.5 grain less 2208 to do it.

Oh and as someone else said, full size it.

regards

I've been loading Berdan primed brass for years mainly in 303brit & am now doing 7.62x51 & 223 with no problems @ all.
I just pry the old primer out with a sharpened Stanley nail punch holding multiple cases upside down in a metal holder held in a vice, then take the crimp off using an old drill chuck with a slightly oversize steel bit that has the point taken off by placing it against the corner of a rotating bench grinder wheel to go over the cases anvil.
You can simply reprime with Berdan primers from "Gunworks" as they now have the right sized ones for the 7.62x51 & other Military brass. (I adapted an old Simplex press to do this but I'm told a Lee hand primer works just as good).
Reload as normal.
I've reloaded steel cased shells also in & 223 (these have normal boxer primers) & 7.62x39, all have worked fine with no issues so my next project is 7.62x54R.
I just love to experiment using obsolete or hard to prime cartridges etc just because people say it can't be done or it's not worth doing so once it's set up I can save heaps of dosh while enjoying my hunting & shooting & help others in a similar position.
Phil.

Just thought I'd add that If some calibre cartridges are hard to come buy then conversion from Berdan to boxer can be done with afew basic tools.
Phil.

We have a Dillon 600 swager but just have put in order for the CH4D kit.You should be aware some mil brass are different [dimensions]and you need at times to adjust your arm when swaging on the Dillon for perfect results.

I've got a heap of mil 30 06 brass. I've used for 8 06 30 06 and 6.5 06 and never had any problems.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mauser308

8><----

Never had any issue working with the milspec brass that way, get about 1-1.5" groups with most rifles with a basic workup depending on the state of the firearm.

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I do the same with 303 brass. Usually out of 100 you will get most inside of 2gr, usually any outside of that I put aside for other uses like plinking or keep for when "desperate" for brass and select the closest in the pile.

I am using LC and RG mil brass in a .223AI and a 300BLK bolt guns with very good accuracy. Just weight each case in batch's and once the primer crimp has been removed its easy as to reload and don't need as much powder with the thicker case walls.

Just finished depriving about 360 rounds of various mil brass for a mate. Found we had to run it twice thru the swage to remove the crimp. Man it was tight.

What would be everyones recommendation for this then for someone who hasn't done any .223 reloading yet at all, gear to get etc... while keeping costs to a minimum but maintaining consistent enough results for hunting ammo.

I was thinking Lee Deluxe .223 dies and maybe the RCBS primer pocket swager tool.

Also, how are people cleaning this stuff up? I was thinking of getting the universal decapping die, pop the primers out and then clean them in a solution of citric acid as I don't have access to a tumbler.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sparky1000

What would be everyones recommendation for this then for someone who hasn't done any .223 reloading yet at all, gear to get etc... while keeping costs to a minimum but maintaining consistent enough results for hunting ammo.

I was thinking Lee Deluxe .223 dies and maybe the RCBS primer pocket swager tool.

Also, how are people cleaning this stuff up? I was thinking of getting the universal decapping die, pop the primers out and then clean them in a solution of citric acid as I don't have access to a tumbler.

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I assume a bolt action? in which case great, just neck size using Lee's die. If this is new to you and its for a semi-auto Im not so sure starting reloading on semi-auto ammo is a great idea without an experienced AR15 handloader by your side.

Lee dies, yes without hesitation.

For 303brit de-crimping I use the RCBS tool at $39,

Gunworks Ltd - RCBS Military Crimp Remover

I have not tried the same thing in the small primer size yet though but I am about to.

I shove it in my battery drill, quick spin and it is done.

"I was thinking of getting the [LEE] universal decapping die" I use this, I like it.

I hardly clean my cases. An ultra-sonic is on my shopping list however, imported as they are a lot cheaper. If you are only doing a few cases like say 50 then $100NZ will get you a small unit here in NZ.

Lee do a basic press kit which is a good start,

Lee 50th Anniversary Kit - Presses - Reloading - Reloaders Supplies Ltd

For a one stop (almost) case prep I love this,

Lee Deluxe Quick Trim Case Trimmer

Yeah sorry I should have said I have the press and everything currently loading for 6.5x55 and 7mm-08 both bolt action rifles. I am looking at getting a .223 bolt action and my friend is getting an ar15.

I hadn't seen that crimp remover tool, thats cheaper than the one I was looking at. Good to hear you like the universal decapping die as well.