Make sure you have a tidy reloading bench with everything in its place....
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Make sure you have a tidy reloading bench with everything in its place....
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I have two benches for my stuff it has taken 50 + years to gather all the gear and still
need more it is never ending be warned
Cheers @Gibo will take you up on that at some point. Initial want to reload for 6.5 Grendel but will also reload for 708 at some point too.
Imo
You need Medium-good quality tools from the get go
Some lee tools are fine however most of what you get in the “everything you need” kits is shit and you will spend more money buying replacement stuff
My suggestion is to buy a rcbs or hornady kit
On top of this
Dies. lee is fine and get the job done pretty well actually but hornady or rcbs would be my pick for Budget dies redding is my favourite but expensive and not required for loading up plinking or basic hunting ammo with a good standard of accuracy
Callipers you have to be able to accurately mesure stuff.... I would add the comparator kit as cbto is alot more accurate measurement than coal that’s Optional though
All good mate.
Not so sure about the quality of Lyman anymore. Bought three of their "M" dies and the locking nut that locks the expander is punched and threaded not machined as on an old version I have. When the lock nut it tightened it skews the expander off centre. Fixed with an O ring under the nut.
Now made in China perhaps?
Greetings Remmodel7,
Don't get discouraged by all the complexity and sometimes contradictory advice you are getting. Handloading is only as complex as you make it. The flashy kit that some handloaders regard as absolutely essential can be regarded as practically useless or totally unnecessary by others. Over time you will find your comfort spot in that range. Sit down with Gibo and he will run you through the basics. Leave laying out the cash until after that. You can always buy something you actually need later but you are stuck with things that you buy that you don't need.
Regards Grandpamac.
Does anyone know if any kits around that $500 mark. Most seem to either be 300 or 700. Rcbs 650 I think.
A good breathing technique helps for when you think you have your loads sorted... and you don't.
Well, I need it anyway. Woosaa
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Watch here and T/M, pick up bits and pieces as you go. Go for better type scales, had my Hornady for 40 odd years, still accurate. I personally find any scales that are not cast metal flimsy.ie Lee.
How would something like this go?
https://reloadingdirect.co.nz/shop/r...reloading-kit/
Also crimp dies yes or no?
The press is cast alloy. It wouldn't be my choice (space here for all the Lee alloy press owners to chime in), Its the bottom of the RCBS pile.
I'd be looking for a good older second hand cast iron press. If you end loading something more grunty than your Grendel it's better to have a robust cast iron press when full length sizing.
My cast iron RCBS press is coming up 50 years old. Still in great condition with no unecceptable slop or wear. It will outlast me and I'll need to make provision for it in my will.
The scales supplied in that kit would be suss as well. Although they are beam balance type the latest RCBS scales have a bad rep for quality, most likely Chinese in origin. All the older scales were good quality usually made by the Ohaus Scale Company in the States. RCBS along with other reloading gear companies badge engineered their scales ie used Ohaus and rebranded.
You won't need to crimp your Grendel, despite what Richard Lee says about crimping in his book. His theory is that powder combustion is more consistant with crimping. I haven't found that to be the case.
I only crimp one of my loadings, a 32/20.
Only necessary for auto loading pistols where the projectile can move in the live rounds in the mag under heavy recoil. Of for the behomoth African rounds, again to prevent projectiles moving under heavy recoil.
What's the verdict on these one sided presses? Think they would be more prone to flex also
C presses, with the exception of the RCBS Summit, which is not a classical C, and with the exception of a few very expensive almost custom C style eg the Sinclair, don't have the strength of a closed O type press.
There's nothing wrong with say neck sizing and bullet seating with a C press but full length sizing is what sorts them out.
Some will argue that a C press with the open front gives you better access but that would be the only redeeming feature. And if the C press is alloy as well......
That lyman kit I posted is cast iron....but it is an open press.....probably still stronger than than the lee cast alloy o press....I saw neckshots one he broke in half sizing 260 brass.
My press is the lyman crusher o frame, not sure if that is still made? But it has been plenty strong enough for everything I have loaded.
One was for sale on here not long ago but it got snapped up pretty quick I think.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...ing/3046139885
Have a crack at this Lyman press, try and snake the auction in the last minute. Looks old but will no doubt last longer then most of us.
Yes keeping an eye on that one cheers
@Remmodel7, I have a set of Hornady 6.5 Grendel dies listed on TradeMe currently with a bonus neck sizing die.
PM me if you'd be interested.
A very good book to have while starting out is Modern Reloading (2nd Edition) by Richard Lee. It is not too expensive and readily available. It does bias towards Lee gear (naturally) but is a worthwhile addition to the loading bench for a newcomer and experienced reloader for that matter.
@Phil_H
MD will get warm fuzzies with your above post.
I'm hopefully a reasonably experienced handloader now (but still learning) but certainly won't criticise your method/equipment.
Sure, I've got lots of good gear now but I am at a stage in life when I can afford it, even the shit that is probably not 100% essential.
The outlay for your kit is low and even lower if buying second hand and if the hobby turns out to not be your cup of tea you can usually recover your full outlay by on-selling.
However, I started out and loaded for many years using a second hand Lyman 310 hand tool (there was one for sale recently on the forum). Almost as basic as your Lee. It produced very good ammo, but slowly.
Like your gear I couldn't FLS but only did that every 4-5 loads and used a mate's press and FLSing die for that.
Still have my 12 g Lee shotgun kit somewhere as well and that produced good shells.
I don't know about going bush with my old Lyman 310 but mine did travel to South Africa and back. A mate went to SA TR Champs there a few years back and took my Lyman 310 tool and seater die with him. He loaded long here in NZ and seated to his final depth every evening before the next day's shoot using my 310.
If going straight into more expensive options (presses etc) though I have firm views around getting better gear straight up. Doesn't need to be brand new, nothing wrong with well cared for second hand. With a bit more dosh involved than a basic Lee Loader you don't want to buy a press that doesn't future proof your potentially heavier cartridge loadings of the future. A smashed alloy press, even if cheapish is still a significant loss of $s when you have to turn around and replace it.
I couldn't imagine your Lee Loader ever breaking.
I can just see you bugging out to the bush carting all your dies brass powder primers and rifles.
Loaded hundreds of rounds in 223 as a teenager ,great but of kit did have one primer go off heavy cycle wash for Mum the next day
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Greetings Phil, Mickey Duck and All,
Don't disagree with you at all. The Lee Loader can turn out excellent ammunition given care. It is how I load my .303 rifles. My loads are light so will likely never need FL sizing but also have a vice FL sizing die. A little trick you may wish to try as your cases get a little snug is to fire a low pressure load in them. You might need another scoop for this. Or you can make one out of a .223 case and a bit of wire. I have not tried this in a .223 but have in my .308. 38 to 40 grains of AR2206H behind a 150 grain projectile in a tight case produces a case that chambers easily. Around 22 grains of AR2206H behind the 55 grain or lighter should do the trick in the .223. Still should be OK for shooting rabbits. I found my .223 rifles need a shorter than standard AOL for the recent Hornady projectiles so take your kit to the range just in case.
Regards Grandpamac.
I used a Lee Loader for my old three-oh years back too. Used Hornady 174-gr round noses; they sure knocked things to the ground!. I'm thinking about getting into reloading again. Sold all my reloading gear years ago in a rash of "I won't go hunting again" stupidity.
I'll probably just get a Lee press kit and a good set of scales. I don't target shoot so don't shoot a ton of rounds. It's probably not worth reloading for my 223; the Buffalo River ammo does a fine job at a reasonable cost. However I picked up some Hornady Precision hunter 6.5 Creedmore ammo for a mate the other day because they were out of stock nearly everywhere. $83 a box!
I've been using PPU for the 308; but am keen to make custom loads at a better price than 80 bucks a box! I know people say you don't save money reloading. But I reckon that if you're like me (from past reloading experience) that I can achieve similar quality to the Precision Hunter for a lot less when I settle on a load.... Will be an interesting play around anyway. And of course; reload for my beloved 303 SMLE.... :)
Re Lee Loaders
Just had a look on the Lee Precision site and virtually everything is Out Of Stock including the humble Lee Loaders. Had a look on Titan Reloading's website where in the past I have bought Lee stuff and likewise, lots of Out Of Stock.
OP mentioned wanting to load for 6.5 Grendel. It looks like Lee doesn't do a kit in that calibre and even if they did I would assume it too would be OOS.
Attachment 165146
I started reloading for my L461 with a Lyman 310 handtool. I miss sitting at the kitchen table and the simplicity of it. Nothing wrong with low cost and effective if you don't mind taking a little extra time.
@Phil_H you, my good man, have made my day..... I dont own any of the rifle versions as bought whole she bang kit years back but do own the shotgun versions and used them lots...recently inherited a semi stuffed flash shotgun loader that does it all...I still do it manually but use the press for the important bits,deprime,reprime and the crimping bits....I tip powder in,poke wad in,tip shot in......make tidy round thats for sure.
so its 2" at hundred yards......no good for hunting???? unless you head shooting its still a very dead deer at 150...or pig...or wallaby...heck even a rabbit.
1st dibs if you decide the LEE set isnt for you LOL.
try same brass to begin with......its one thing folks have always given me shit about.
also...did you fire baseline group at same time with other ammunition???? that rules out human factor.....EG if your other group was also 2" all is well...if other group was .5 inches...not so good.
Greetings Phil,
In my opinion not too much wrong. General opinion is that a 5 shot group is likely to be 50% larger than a 3 shot group and you are a shot ahead of that. My anal approach to handloading prevents me mixing brass or not giving them a clean first. I am too tight to spring for a tumbler so just give them a spiff up with steel wool and a polish with a Chux. At least checking case length to make sure they are not too long and chamfering would remove one more variable. Using the Lee loader these two would only need to be done once. I am a low tech handloader by choice and avoid most fancy kit that others regard as essential. Always remember that deer in NZ were half wiped out with rifles that did not group as well as yours.
Happy hammering and regards Grandpamac
I think you are more likely to find accuracy adjusting seating depth and or powder charge weight or type than the "niceties" like champfering necks /cleaning primer pockets etc.
A good load is a good load and wont mind .1gr either side of target weight.
Projectiles can like a certain amount of jump and or barrels can like a certain speed.
Something that people often forget is that a press isn't mandatory, even for full length resizing!
There was a period when Lee Loaders also came in a 'deluxe' version (different from the target version, which offered inside neck reaming!) which could full length resize. But it failed as these required an excessive amount of force to use.
Enter the 'Vise Die':
Three companies offered these, Lynman, as a compliment to their 310 tong tool (which is in every way inferior to a Lee Loader!).Find these on US eBay, fairly common.
L.E Wilson, as a compliment to their neck sizing and decapping die along with bullet seating die. These are long discontinued and are the Cadillac of vise dies. Strong collectors market and I was lucky to get one for the .270 at a good price!
Finally, the only version which still in production and closer to home for you lot, the Super Simplex die. Early Simplex presses did not have enough uumph to Full Length Resize, only neck size, so they came out with their own vise dies for FL resizing. Come in a huge range of chamberings.
Seem to be in stock here: https://www.ozgunmart.com.au/super-s...h-resizing-die
But I bought direct from them, the lady running it is very helpful and service is quick:http://simplexreloading.com.au/4-pho...simplex-press/
Personally like these Vise dies as they are pretty idiot proof, always getting the brass back down to SAMMI/CIP standard chamber spec. Arguably work the brass more than necessary, and don't forget to use lube! (good idea when jamming any tight fitting thing into an orifice :P )
All of them come with a die body with holes in each end, which allows the brass to enter for resizing and be knocked out again. The lower spec ones (Lynamn and Simplex) only come with a knock-out rod, so you have to use a bit of wood to squeeze the back of the case into the die when in the vise. The L.E Wilson ones came with a plunger and base so you could feasibly use it on a strong arbour press, much handier as vertical instead of horizontal compression means the die can't fall out when you release it.
Did a wee writeup on the UK deerstalking forum with pics here: https://www.thestalkingdirectory.co....sizing.191471/
Bit of an antiquated and time-consuming method but still feasible for making ammo on the road, no press to carry!
I've experimented and in a real SHTF/Mad Max scenario you can use a car jack to compress the die.