Starting out reloading

Happy new year all.

I'm based in Manukau and was looking to get into reloading. I have acquired an abundance of 270 win mag, 44 mag and 300 wsm rounds, so brass won't be an issue. I was hoping for an idea of what it would cost to start from scratch to begin reloading my own in these calibres. For context I'm in my mid 30s so I would be planning to reload my own for some decades to come. The reason being is i wanted to use my FN Herstal in 300WSM for long range comps as it was given to me by a friend that has since passed.

Happy to purchase second hand components.

Kind regards,

Tim

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Originally Posted by Tim8

Happy new year all.

I'm based in Manukau and was looking to get into reloading. I have acquired an abundance of 270 win mag, 44 mag and 300 wsm rounds, so brass won't be an issue. I was hoping for an idea of what it would cost to start from scratch to begin reloading my own in these calibres. For context I'm in my mid 30s so I would be planning to reload my own for some decades to come. The reason being is i wanted to use my FN Herstal in 300WSM for long range comps as it was given to me by a friend that has since passed.
Happy to purchase second hand components.

Kind regards,

Tim

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Happy new year. You will find a wealth of knowledge and experience in this forum, as well as a few members who may be close to you geographically that will guide your reloading. Every now and then second hand gear pops up for sale or swap so keep your eyes on the buy sale page. You have to be pretty quick though good deals only stay there for a few minutes

You will not save any money by reloading but you will get a lot more shooting, so your skill level may increase significantly. If you are using cases from the rifle they were shot in, you can use a Lee hand die set for an initial step into reloading. For 270Win they seem to go for about $50 - 70 second hand. That was my introductory gear and I was able to load very accurate 222Rem rounds (under an inch for 5 shots at 100 yards): one powder, one bullet type, one cartridge brand, one primer type/brand.

Kits like the Lee are good. But some stuff will lack quality or not to your liking.

If you want quality at reasonable price used is the way to go IMO.

Start with a good solid "C" or just about any "O" single stage press. Decent brand name beam balance. Lee RGB dies are also very good value.

Here is a link to some DIY equipment if your that way inclined and short pdf that explains the process. Keep in mind processes like tumbling are optional.

https://enoughgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13453

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...ZmtMzBealc7NlD

And links to reloading manuals. Might be too much info for now. Lol

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthrea ... nd-current

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Originally Posted by Andygr

Happy new year. You will find a wealth of knowledge and experience in this forum, as well as a few members who may be close to you geographically that will guide your reloading. Every now and then second hand gear pops up for sale or swap so keep your eyes on the buy sale page. You have to be pretty quick though good deals only stay there for a few minutes

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Yes I see things get snapped up quick on the buy sell pages as well as the other forums.

Thanks for that. I will look to source the 270 dies and other bits and pieces required and will flow on from there. Not really looking to save money but I do want to try and ensure I have control over the ammo, with the current market and supply I think reloading is good insurance so you can stay shooting.

Thanks Old bloke, will have a look now. I agree of you going to do it for decades to come I don't want to buy cheap rubbish.

For some a Lee classic would do. But sounds like you want better than thst. Good press, good beam balance. Most of the other stuff is pretty basic. Trimmers seem stupid expensive. Look around for one of these. Lee do one too.

Case lube. Many recipes.
I just put small amount of coconut oil in a zip lock bag with about 10 cases. Give it a good shake and rub to cover the cases. Then use a bore mop to lube the inside of necks.
Engine oil, diff oil lanolin, grease they all work. Lol. I used diff oil for 20 years.

Trickler, with practice just use an empty case. Lol

Drill holes in a block of wood for a loading block. Lol.

Will need to buy a powder funnel tho.


Link fix

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...ld-and-current

Greetings,
My advice is to find a handloader who will mentor you through the process. This will let you buy what you need for your style of handloading rather that what someone else thinks you should have.
Regards Grandpamac.

$500 all up should see you sorted.... a couple of threads on here about what you NEED...Vs what you may like..... start simple and add extra if n when you need it. press,dies,some way to prime,powder scales will do to BEGIN with. personally Im more than happy with gear made by LEE.... others milage varies.

Thanks Old bloke. I'm not above the practicality like drilling holes in a block of wood to hold the cases etc, I'll be dead keen on that sorta stuff. I have some old 50 cal cases etc so again keen to fashion up a trickler out of these. Thanks for the advice and tips again. Tim

trickling can be done really well like thus....
hold teaspoon in hand like you would a pen..between thumb n index finger tips. half full spoon with sugar to practise,put spoon over your cuppa tea... with both wrists on table edge, now tap your thumb knuckle thats holding spoon gently with opposing index finger..the gentle shake it gives will make sugar jump and small amount fall off side of spoon...try it
its nearly as good as a fancypants trickler and all I did for many years.

@Tim8 did you get my pm yesterday?

Buy quality.Redding] First go and get a portable drill. Some sockets to match your calibres. Next get a Bernzomatic torch and blue gas. Annealing is the absolute voodoo for good reloading .When you do centre fire calibres take out your decapper and expander rod out of your die and biff it into the scrub. Deprime with a Lee universal die. Fantastic die. Clean your brass before reloading if 2nd hand brass via SSM. The Franford small tumbler is a ripper. Cleanliness is next to Godliness. There are some cracker links for 44 mag here which set me on the right course. Will post them . PM if you want any advice.

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....rimping-45708/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nvOaPCe3Ng

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....-barrel-60658/

The problem with reloading is experts can make it sound complicated and very technical when it can be very very simple if you want. Somewhere in between is the sweet spot for most.

Here is KISS lol

https://youtu.be/UeEl9wZyabc

A lot of what loaders do is really "optional".

A basic procedure.
1. De-Prime
2. Clean with cloth or in Aldi ultrasonic cleaner. (Optional) Dry
3. Visual inspection of fired cases looking for signs of pressures, case separation or neck cracking.
4. Anneal every few reloads or as required. (Optional)
5. Lube case including inside neck.and FLRS or neck size.
6. Wash/clean/remove all lube and dry.
7. Trim all cases & debur. (if required)
8. Prime.
9. Powder charge (Weighing charge is optional) scoops?
10. Seat projectile and check length. (OAL)

Thanks TeRei. You have given me a few valuable takeaways from that blurb. I think annealing will absolutely be on the cards especially for the 300WSM which I plan to squeeze as much accuracy as I can out of that. Thanks for the links I will have a good look.

Thank you grandpamac, everyone has been PMing me and has been helpful without inserting the must and must not into the advice given.

It's not a fixed thing either. Half the fun is testing each aspect to see it its optimal. No brand is the best all all things so it's gonna be up to you to evaluate each thing as you go.

Don't forget the old gem though,
"You get what you pay for".