Trouble seating primer into pocket

Been trying to load some 243 ammo today.

Using Highland unprimed brass from Reloaders, Federal primers. Priming was done using a single stage RCBS press with a priming lever arm.

Had 6 out of 20 cases where the primer just won't seat properly into the pocket. Doesn't matter how hard I force the press, the primer would still be protruding out of the pocket. I applied so much pressure it even caused a small dent on the primer, I was afraid that applying more pressure might bust the primer, and stopped there. See photo below.

Attachment 126884

There was even one instance where the case, primer and shell holder got stuck as one unit, because the primer was protruding out so much that I could not slide it out of the shell holder. Took a while to take them apart.

Anyone has any tips?

Thank you very much!

Sounds like poor quality control on the brass, maybe a primer pocket uniformer tool would do the job ?
Dunno but I'm sure someone else will chime in :thumbsup:

Maybe de prime a few and measure the depth of the primer pockets on ones that fit vs ones that don't, should narrow it down to primers or the brass

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dannyb

Sounds like poor quality control on the brass, maybe a primer pocket uniformer tool would do the job ?
Dunno but I'm sure someone else will chime in :thumbsup:

Maybe de prime a few and measure the depth of the primer pockets on ones that fit vs ones that don't, should narrow it down to primers or the brass

---

I see I see, good idea measuring and comparing the pocket depths.

Also wondering whether it is safe to punch out a live primer using the decapping die? Just trying to save the 6 brasses, but if unsafe I don't mind tossing them out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Synthetic

I see I see, good idea measuring and comparing the pocket depths.

Also wondering whether it is safe to punch out a live primer using the decapping die? Just trying to save the 6 brasses, but if unsafe I don't mind tossing them out.

---

I’ve done it, carefully !

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Frogfeatures

I’ve done it, carefully !

---

Yup done plenty, wear eye and ear protection and do it gently.
I've never had one go off but if it did the above precautions would be plenty safe

Run them through a swager? That's really proud

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Synthetic

......Also wondering whether it is safe to punch out a live primer using the decapping die? Just trying to save the 6 brasses, but if unsafe I don't mind tossing them out.

---

Ummmmmm probably a question from the stupid boy but why not avoid any stress and just load them into the chamber, fire them and then deprime?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kiwi Sapper

Ummmmmm probably a question from the stupid boy but why not avoid any stress and just load them into the chamber, fire them and then deprime?

---

Good point actually, never thought about that before.
Waiting for some reassurance from the gurus.

I had similar problems with ex mil 5.56 military brass.

I think you'll need to borrow/buy a swaging tool. RCBS makes them, they press the primer pocket into uniform size.

It will be more practical to put the problem cases aside for now, and wait till you have a large enough amount to bother with.

I have deprimed lots of live primers without a hitch, just take it slowly for a start till you're comfortable doing it quickly.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Max Headroom

I had similar problems with ex mil 5.56 military brass.

I think you'll need to borrow/buy a swaging tool. RCBS makes them, they press the primer pocket into uniform size.

It will be more practical to put the problem cases aside for now, and wait till you have a large enough amount to bother with.

I have deprimed lots of live primers without a hitch, just take it slowly for a start till you're comfortable doing it quickly.

---

Is this the tool you're talking about?
https://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Rel...ench+Tool.html

That or a SuperSwage

Looking at the curved line on the bottom of the primer it appears that the primer pocket was not lined up with the priming seating cup. You may want to run a case in the shell holder down onto the priming cup with no primer in the cup to see if they line up correctly.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Synthetic

Good point actually, never thought about that before.
Waiting for some reassurance from the gurus.

---

could be wrong but would that be wise with the primers sitting so proud ? would they even chamber ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dannyb

could be wrong but would that be wise with the primers sitting so proud ? would they even chamber ?

---

Yup, I would rather do it on a press.

Replacing a decapping pin is cheap, replacing a firing pin is not...

@Synthetic, a primer pocket uniformer would be significantly cheaper than the swaging tool

https://workshopinnovation.co.nz/pro...asp?prod=09100

Also have a look at the rim of the primer pocket. If the primers had some form of crimp, the edge may have burrs etc. It is easy to clean that up using a champ her cutter you normally use before bullet seating.

If you want to get them out, just gently run them thru the die to punch those ones out and then I’d bin the brass, wear safety glasses but I’ve never had one go off. As Danny said I’d be be a bit iffy shooting them in a rifle with them sitting out so much?

You could get a primer pocket cutter as the pocket depth may not be deep enough https://www.workshopinnovation.co.nz...RLRPCT&cat=126

But I’d probably just bin those ones and buy better brass next time

You won't be able to shoot them out as you won't be able to close the bolt, unless you intend to prime them with bolt before shooting.

Just carefully deprime with your sizing die.
This is a fairly common problem with, new brass and is actually a good thing in away as better tight than loose.

Probably all primer pocket needs is a little chamfer, and pocket uniform on it from likes of a Lyman tool. The yellow/bronze one where you can change head out to what you are doing.

All different brass brands/primers are not exactly the same as you are talking small clearances so will find they all seat different.

Greetings Synthetic,
The RCBS swage tool is designed for removing the primer crimp on military cases. I used a borrowed one years ago and it did a reasonable job but I don't think this is your problem. If the pockets are just too tight, narrow or shallow then the primer pocket uniformer will be needed. if it is just a sharper than normal corner from head to the pocket a reamer or uniformer should do the trick. There is however one more possibility. With some priming arms the punch is threaded into the body of the arm, My old Lyman press wasn't but my current Redding press is. You may want to check that the face of the punch is above the floor of the shell holder or adjust if needed. Lastly in spite of reaming my ex military cases some are still a bit sticky when priming so a little waggle of the case as the primer starts seems to help rather than brute force. I use a Lee hand primer so this is easier. Hope this helps.
Regards Grandpamac.

Take vernier (all handloaders have a vernier don't they) and measure depth of primer pocket. LRP pockets run around 130 thou depending on brass brand. Measure primer thickness. There is quite a variation between brands although in most cases the cups are the same just the anvil protrudes more on some brands.

Check bottom of primer pocket. Some are poorly formed and have a radius rather than sharp cut in the bottoms.
Buy a primer pocket uniformer. They usually cut just under SAAMI at 131 to 132 thou depending upon brand. They will true up all your brass to the same dimension and square up the bottom of the pocket.

Don't buy a swager. You'll be wasting your money on this occassion. They are more suited for restoring brass that has had expanded pockets after several firings at near max load.

New brass can be an arse the first time it is loaded both in seating primers and projectiles. You just need to do a bit of brass prep.

Buy better quality brass.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Synthetic

Is this the tool you're talking about?
https://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Rel...ench+Tool.html

---

Nope, but i dont see why it wouldnt work.

My un's this 'unAttachment 126895

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Max Headroom

Nope, but i dont see why it wouldnt work.

My un's this 'unAttachment 126895

---

Why would you launch into using that tool if you haven't done some basic measurements to understand the nature of the problem?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by zimmer

Why would you launch into using that tool if you haven't done some basic measurements to understand the nature of the problem?

---

Fair point. My understanding of swaging is that it trues up primer pockets regardless of dimension, ie cold forging the brass back to spec.
This is given that they're too tight/ distorted, not too loose.

I'd say that what you've posted above should be his first stop, before/instead of doing as I have suggested.

Just get the multi tool from Lyman.... covers a host of reloading jobs and a pretty fair price

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6t3AypCg3LQ

Punch the primers carefully as stated, dont try and shoot them off.

Try some other primers

Is you primer cup on the press buggered?/ broken?

No such thing as stupid question when it comes to reloading, we have all learned from experience.

poor some oil into the case and soak for a day to kill the primer prior to punching them or throwing them out

Maybe you should take the brass back, it's most likely a quality control issue so they would like to know so they can remedy the problem so it don't happen in the future. You should also get a refund.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mooseman

Maybe you should take the brass back, it's most likely a quality control issue so they would like to know so they can remedy the problem so it don't happen in the future. You should also get a refund.

---

+1 if you buy new brass should be no reason to have these problems as long as your reloading gear and method is up to scratch.