Just wondering what people's thoughts are on best cleaner i dont care about how shiny brass is just whats best value for money cleaner
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Just wondering what people's thoughts are on best cleaner i dont care about how shiny brass is just whats best value for money cleaner
Each do different things, ultrasonic will clean inside and out and get cases completely clean including the thin layer that stops the case tarnishing. Tumbling will remove adhered carbon such as around the flash hole area that ultrasonic might not, but doesn't remove some contaminants such as grease/oil etc that the media slides over. Each have their place depending on the state of the brass, although fine scotchbrite used manually will probably remove the small amount of stuff that ultrasonic fluid won't.
Post cleaning care is different too, the cases need to be dried after us cleaning and then thinly lubed over the entire outside to prevent tarnishing - media cleaners need the flash holes and internals checked for stuck media.
Tumbler leaves some carbon the necks of the cases, and helps bullet seating consistent and prevents cold-welding. So for me, using the tumbler saves me having to add an extra step over the ultrasonic, by not having to lube case necks after cleaning.
Is that the same for steel pin tumblers and natural media tumblers ? I was under the impression steel pins were pretty good at removing everything ?Quote:
Originally Posted by gqhoon
Tried both.... now use tumbler for cases and sonic for cleaning suppressor and other gun bits.
I don’t have any experience with steel pins or ceramic etc, so couldn’t comment.Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
But tumbler or vibratory cleaner with walnut media leaves a little carbon in the necks to be useful.
If the pins are a wet cleaner process, it's sort of (depending on the fluid used) a combo of ultrasonic and vibratory. I've heard of people putting tiny ceramic beads in the ultrasonic fluid, but my personal opinion on that is more hassle than it's worth. The point of ultrasonic is that if it's tuned correctly the cavitation bubbles imploding will knock everything off that needs to be knocked off the part being cleaned. The difference is 60seconds of cleaning vs not clean in 10 minutes if the cleaner is properly tuned. Ultrasonic is the fastest of all methods, which is why it gets the cases so clean.
Long since parked up my SS wet tumbler and my ultrasonic tank. Both clean inside very well which a dry media tumbler won't. They clean, but too clean. The carbon deposit inside the necks is gone. That carbon deposit, which I just brush after firing with a very stiff carbon nylon brush provides essential lube when seating.
The SS wet tumbling peens the hell out of my nice chamfered neck mouths. If you don't believe me look at all the sparkles mixed with the pins. It's not gold.
And both wet methods are too much faffing around for whatever gain you're supposed to get. I'm running out of time and spending unecessary time with aspects of my reloading have long been eliminated. I still produce very high quality ammo but via a minimal number of steps.
Oh yeah, that's right, you can find your ejected cases in the long grass and supposedly it's easier to see defects on the brass.
Was merely a question out of curiosity, I generally clean my cases with a mixture of white vinegar and water 50/50 mix, soak for 20 minutes then rinse in hot soapy water, then hot water till clean.
Dry in the oven then polish with clean rag or paper towel. Works for me :thumbsup:
Attachment 225224
I reckon they look pretty shiny and they are definitely clean inside too. Best part you can re use the vinegar/water mix many many times
Stainless pins in a wet tumbler makes brass shinier than new
Dry, then graphite powder the necks
do you lube neck after ?Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
I have found a tumbler with SS pins to be great for rejuvenating surplus brass and really filthy stuff. As observed above, the SS tumbler is hard on case mouths. For general reloading with already prepped brass, I like to keep it simple and 30min in a vibe tumbler with walnut (before de-priming) is what I do. I use a shot of nu-wax liquid polish as a cleaner and protector. You can get non-branded vibe tumblers way cheaper from a few different places, the reloading branded ones are no different aside from price.
I have found sonic cleaners to be more hassle than they are worth for brass. Very handy to have for gun parts and other stuff (tip: use snap lock sandwich bags and fill them with whatever fluid you are cleaning with and the part your cleaning, then you keep the water in the sonic cleaner clean and don't need to fill the whole thing with de-greaser/mineral spirits / IPA, just a little baggie)
Cannot say I agree, I de-prime, wet tumble, check primer seat is clean, dry then anneal, resize using a forster FL die with a honed neck, no need to drag an expander ball back through the neck, check case OAL and de-burr with a fine angle reamer.Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmer
Fit primer, add charge and then dry lube the bullet when seating. Really consistent seating pressures and velocities... and brass lasts and lasts as the neck is not being over worked.
Yes and the projectileQuote:
Originally Posted by Calvnz1
Exactly what my team mate found. Some rounds wouldn't chamber and the cases were losing length after SS tumbling. It was from severe peening of the case mouths.Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmer
What do you use for that @dannyb ? graphite powder etc? or is something like the 'oneshot' case lube ok?Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
I use graphit powder as described by @7mmsaum :thumbsup: works a treatQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnQT
