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ive just got into casting and have got a few molds and most of the basic gear needed currently casting for 45-70govt 44mag 357mag and 50cal balls for my muzzle loader
having a few issues with my lead and cant work out what the issue is there anyone in Auckland that would be willing to come and see what im doing wrong? im using lino type and pure lead but only have issues when I use lino or a pure/lino mix.... pure lead casts fine
Is it a mold temp issue?
Lead temp? Dirty rough mold?
Are you descuming(Linotype can be dirty) or using a bottom pore pot?
I used to use Linotype but ran out and as I have an almost unlimited suply of old lead plumbing flashings I started using that, and had a few learning curves until I got it right.
A hardness tester helps a lot.
The cast bullets forum is VERY helpful
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nah they look almost frosted but tep is sweet so cant be that moulds are brand new and been degreased and smoked as per the book my lead is from a pretty clean sauce but I dross and flux several times before casting pot is a lee bottom pour pot
Beyond me then sorry.
Casting is a fairly small thing in NZ so I really do recommend asking the same question on the cast bullets forum, be warned-they will probably want photos of the results your getting.
Just wait untill you try powder coating!
Your Lino is short on tin I would say, get some 50/50 solder from the plumbers suppliers 1 stick to 10kg works with my mix which is wheel weights for pistol bullets and a mix of wheel weights and pure lead for rifle,
best temperature is 675-750F and flux it quite a lot, it's the antimony in the lino that is the problem tin breaks the surface tension and lets the lead flow into the mould cavities, the best mix is when the tin and antimony
% is the same, for the calibre's you are using you don't need a hard lead, to much lino and you will get leading caused by the antimony, hope this helps Robert.
Frosting is a sign of to high a temperature of either the lead or mould , I find it is usually the lead temperature . Try a lower temperature the lino type seems to have an element which dosen't like the temperature.
Having said all of the above frosting is nothing to worry about ,it is only cosmetic.
This explains a lot about lead mixes
http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm
yep been meaning to get some wheel weights but haven't found any supply's my local tyre shop wanted $5 a kg and a lot if that would of been useless zinc if it was all lead maybe but for now I have 60kg of printers lead and over that of roof flashing (ingots) so for now ive just been doing about a 50/50 mix maybe I should go to 30/70? and will add some 50/50 solder and try that I don't have a hardness tester wanna get one but there expensive and at the Mo I have more important bills to pay
I also have a hole bunch of old dive weights here but I have no idea what alloy they are
for cast bullets the faster you push them the harder they need to be . As a general rule scrap lead can be used up to appro 1200 fps ,and wheel weights to approx 1800 fps and lino type "lead" for 1800 + fps .
For your purpose I would try 45-70 & 357 80/20 lead / lino . 44 mag 90/10 lead/lino and 50 cal scrap lead (the dive weights). One thing to remember is Lino type lead is mighty rare and tin could be used as a hardening agent for the 44 mag?. Also for the 45-70 &357 and just to add more confusion gas checks can also help with velocity problems.
I cringe when I think I used to use Linotype for .45apc when I had flashings and now I would love a source for .303
yeah pretty rare stuff but lucky knowing a few printers who still have plenty even though its no longer used I do pay around 6 bucks a kg though also got given a heep awhile back
Tin is probably what you are short on in your mix. Tin makes a hard lead tin alloy, the antimony is harder still and will always crystalise out first but the alloy is hard enough to stop lead stripping when you fire them. If the frosting can be wiped off with a rag don't worry about it as when the bullets are lubed it will actually help hang on to the lubricant.
If it worries you try lowering the amount of linotype in the blend to less than 40%, adding 1 part of 50/50 lead tin solder (it's freaking expensive) don't use solder with aluminium or bismuth in or use pure lead and keep your speeds down below 1500 fps.
Post a photo of one if you can that's always helpful
no worries will put some photos up tomorrow
All my cast projectiles are made from pure lead for my black powder shooting, 50cal, 45/70, 38/55, pure lead bumps up into the bore and seals, it is easy to clean, accuracy is fine, I do realise for faster fps the lead should be harder and if using black powder there is no need to harden the lead, I think it just adds to the probs, gas checks on faster loads, I protect my bases with a beer coaster wad.
I cast for 303,308,7.62x39,9mm,357,44mag,45acp,and a few others. Temp is important as is alloy. I suggest you look at the cast boolit website. You will need a spare year or two to read it all. Never use pure linotype,too hard,too brittle and doesnt fill the mould well.
If the tyre shops want $5.00 kg for wheel weights they are dreaming the going rate is $2.00 kg to buy from the scrap dealers, I pay the tyre shops a $1.00 kg and have all 4 shops in town saving them for me because I pay the best price, after sorting out the lead I trade the junk for lead scrap,straight wheel weights usually cast ok but is too hard for hunting unless the velocity is above 2000fps for up to 1800-1900fps mix 50/50 WW/Lead and add 1 stick of solder to 10kg makes the bullet malleable so it will hold together and mushroom, to get expansion with cast bullets the velocity needs to be 1200fps minimum unless the bullet is pure lead which is not a good idea.
BP always pure lead?
I say yes, the additives and gas checks come when you are using nitro with lead projectiles, or trying to push the limits of black powder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
If you are shooting round ball, any additives will cause problems, pure lead is the way to go.
The only real problem I had when shooting lead slugs and balls was when I inadvertently mixed some hard lead into a large batch of projectiles. Took some finding why I suddenly had problems after successfully shooting slugs out to 500m and balls out to 200m :(
had a look at some 50/50 solder crist that stuff is expensive $32 for a 200gm stick is there any other way to add tin to the mix
Told ya it was expensive, the only other way I know of is to try and get lead pipe from scrap metal or demo merchants, the joints on that were soldered with 50/50.
The alternative is to set your velocity sights lower and use pure lead. It's fine for target shooting, and on game animals a bullet with a nice large meplat gives pretty impressive results. You just have to be more accurate in measuring range.
I just use wheel weights straight for hard bullets and pure lead for my 58s both mine and round ball. The 4570 velocity should be fine for pure lead also
If it is Tin (Sn) that you want there are two possible sources , One is to use pewter (never done it myself ) .And two is to use Plumbers solder which can be brought from any Plumber Trade suppliers ,I think from memory Chesters is a source and would be about $15???? which from memory is 50/50 lead/Tin and comes in a 500gm ??? stick.Quote:
Originally Posted by rambo-6mmrem