Hey Ladies and Gents
Best way to get rid of wasps in a residential situation......and go
Hamish
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Hey Ladies and Gents
Best way to get rid of wasps in a residential situation......and go
Hamish
Sent from my SM-S911B using Tapatalk
Paper wasps or German wasp that is all through our bush?
Pour petrol down hole. Do it in the evening when they arrive all back in hole.
I use a bottle of powder called no wasps (I think) in a yellow bottle. Puff a few lots of that on the nest and they vacate it pretty quick. Once they vacate it I knock it down and stamp on it to kill any larvae. They seem to reinhabit the nest if you don’t do that as well. I had some guy come out and spray when we first moved here and he used a powder as well. I think it’s just pyrethrin and diamtemacous earth (spelling will be incorrect on both of those). Works well if you know where the nest is
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If you have a hole/nest in the ground where you can see the entry sprinkle NO MORE WASPS powder around it at night. Alternatively a 1.5 litre coke bottle of petrol jammed into the hole and left for a couple of days has worked for me in the past.
Vespex is absolutely amazing but from what I know it can only be used at certain times of the year when wasps are feeding on protein.
Used this last summer.
https://www.hawkeye.kiwi/products/pest-control/wasp/
Went for the wasp bait starter pack.
Was a bit late getting onto them, and am just about to set up again (still have about have the bait left from last year).
We're on the edge of farmland, stream close by, bit of bush so plenty of ground for wasps to set up.
There were wasps coming from 3 different directions to a bush in our garden that really drew them in. After about 3 weeks of topping up the bait station (just used the one as they were all converging in the one spot), the numbers started to plummet.
Check out Hawkeye.kiwi this is product that we make and there is wasp lure to trap them to reduce numbers and catch queens at certain times of the year. Then there is bait that is taken back to the nest and then more wasps are recruited and this will wipe out the nest.
These products are best if you don't know where the nest is.
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If its one of those hive type nests you see hanging on the side of a fence, tie a used bake bean can or any can to the end of 2m stick. half fill the can with petrol, holding the other end of the stick, tip the petrol on the nest. Do it late in the day but before dark. This will be the end of it. There may be 4-5 individual wasps still hanging around that you have to clean up by other methods, but the petrol on the nest is like a nuclear warhead on a small village.
okay the common wasp is the wasp more likely to be encountered in our native bush - german wasps can create huge nests with multiple queens and entrances one at Kaitaia was the size of a mini - common wasps normally one entrance and nest the size of a small football - I have done hundreds of nests mainly common wasps - Waikaremoana we had plaques of them - not uncommon to use Conservation Corp trainess 10 of them womble the motor camp spaced 3-5 metres apart and find 20-30 nests over 3 acres - okay control - paper wasps are really easy once you have found nest normally about the size of a small fist - spray with black flag or other good fly spray I do it in day time walk up spray but at night is safer they hurt - now the others DOC website has a good write up and has names of a number of products but for a single nest a good wasp powder such as carbyryl - I have just tossed in a spoonfull in day time by being quick - but a better way is at night - use piece of garden hose about 5 ft long bend about 10 inches over - put in about two teaspoons wasp powder with a funnel - walk up and blow powder into hole - done hunderds like that next day dead nest - dont bloody suck its blow ahhh - larger problems need bait stations and a product for that a good one is vespex - okay we used 5 ft garden stakes and a stiff paper coffee cup - staple cup to stake and put out at 20 -30 metre intervals - prefeed with tuna based cat food - use a good desert spoon full and next day if all gone double it -dont be tempted to put out heaps start small - well that is what we used follow instructions with vespex they may recommend a meat based cat food - prefeeding is key to a good kill - we prefeed for 4-5 days and then fifth day the vespex went out and normally only need that once - damn effective - we also used 1080 but of course you cant buy it - so in a nut shell it depends on the size of your problem - finding nests is a skill walk slowly looking for flight paths - one hint likely not far from water - they have to fly water to nest with wood they have chewed of to make nest and they cant fly water far -
Permex powder works really well if you can get it into/around the entrance of the nest. Kills the nest in no time.
If its the ones with the hanging nest(paper wasp?) I spray the nest at night time with flyspray. It kills them. Leave the nest up dont take it down. Those type of wasps are teritorial if you leave the nest up another bunch of wasps wont come along and build a nest nearby.
the yellow pottle no more wasps will work....sprinkle it on as much of entrance holes as you can reach..by tomorrow they will be dead
Im told the tin of tuna and few drops of drontal type flea treatment works a treat ONCE the wasps are feeding on tuna/protein and thats where arguments start as hungry wasps will hone in on meat all summer long....
I HATE the hot arsed germanic huas...
Didn't have chemicals handy so put vacuum cleaner hose at entrance of underground nest, got sucked in when flying out to fight and then sprayed fly spray into nozzle sna sealed with duct tape, had about 1-2 liters of dead wasps in bottom of cleaner. then destroyed nest. Exciting way to hunt :)
If its germans or common wasps.... Vespex 100% !!
Hit them when they are chasing the protien (now thru jan & feb) you will destroy nests blocks away without having to find the nests.
No good for paper wasps as they won't take bait only hunt live insects.
Google it. Easy online test before you buy.
1 tub will last years if kept in the freezer [emoji106]
Note: what ever you do dont mix it with any sugar based product (jam etc) or you will smoke 100's of bees !!!! This is the main reason it is a protein based bait !!
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Paperwasps
Deodorant can and a lighter
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...stleBravo1.gif
Also works very well against spiders...
"No more wasps" works fine if you do it properly. Carbaryl works even better, see if you can find it in the garden department at your local store cos its not meant to be used for wasps. Find the entry to the nest, easy on a foggy or dewy morning, then sprinkle around the entrance. The wasps will walk it in and kill the whole nest, not just the active ones. If you cant get close enough to the nest, the 5ft piece of hose is the answer, push it in to the "No more wasps" so it packs in to the end of the hose about 50mm, insert end of hose just inside entrance to the hive and give a decent big huff on the other end. This scatters it all around where they walk in and out and they track it all in to the depths of the hive - job done. Petrol dont work that well, doesnt actually kill the whole nest.
Had them in the roof cavity once, chucked a couple of bug bombs in their direction, shut the man double quick. Sorted
Fipronil is the active bit in Verspex, also some flea treatments like spot on. You can use it for wasps, but it needs to be in a bait station as sunlight and moisture stuffs it pronto. You want to make it strong enough to end the wasps in the nest where the young die, not nuking the foraging wasps instantly... Plain tuna canned in spring water is a reasonable bait source, needs to be protein and used when the wasps are carting protein back to the nest for the young. It needs to be a plain protein, hence the tuna in spring water with no oils or flavours. A teaspoon of tuna, with one or two droplets of fipronil mixed in evenly should do it - possibly use something to put two droplets in and a small amount of red food colour then mix it into the tuna without going backwards as you don't want to contaminate your stuff you use for your food... Put it into the station then up near where wasps are foraging away from flowers or near the ground.
Verspex is a bit of a non-starter for 'home' or smaller type jobs, $58 plus farting around to get registered and then you have to actually get the stuff on top of that which requires freezer transport etc etc. OK if you have the work for it. For the average home or lifestyle block it's just a non-starter. I looked seriously at getting the approval to purchase and complete Monsanto's product husbandry requirements but it was just too much as you can't get a small enough pack to use it all before the expiries.
Some of the over-the-counter products we tried just didn't work, literally we were feeding the bloody things and they were coming back for more! Tied a tracking cotton to a couple of wasps and counted them back at least three times. That's when I got told about the spot on, and how to not kill bees with it - that's what was pissing me off the most with the wasps the bastards were ripping the heads off the bees and taking the bodies laden with pollen back to the nest and feeding the young up on bee protein with pollen for desert. The spot on treated tuna definitely dealt to them, over two days no more wasps. Much more bees in evidence, and since then only a few small paper wasp nests of 4-5 adults (easy to sort by knocking to the ground) and very few German or Common wasps in evidence and probably at the extreme limits of their foraging range.
Thanks for all the answers team, i contacted the neighbours and they have engaged wasp specialists to get rid of it at 3pm tomorrow
Hamish
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Wonder how youse would have gone with black snakes and scorpions . ;)
When wasps are your issue u live in paradise
We did the frontline in tuna for a few years. 5 drops in a medium sized can, I think 185gm? Worked well but its a pain. Then vespex came came out. Its great, a short time on the laptop to get registered and then picked up a 600gm pot . Once a year is all thats needed. Iv frozen some in the small bait tubs that come with it so its like a lot of little cubes, I can just grab one when needed. I dont bother with prebaiting or half the shit thats recommended. The yellow fold up bait stations need some duct tape though, they have a habit of coming open in the wind. Hardly ever see a wasp around home now.
I havn't head of hawkeye, Ill look it up but I doubt I change from vespex. 2 years now and still going on the first pot.
would you please do another thread or just tack on to this one now OPs issues is gone...about this Hawkeye stuff ...where to get it??? how much??? whats best practise etc..... was at mates place on wet coast a couple of years ago..7 VERY active nests in 10 meters up a steep bank..zapped 5 of them but other two were too active to get near with powder....I just puff it in entrance from as close as I can..usually roots them in hour or so. have done the pipe trick SIMILAR to what Barry discribed except we dipped 1/2" alkathene in pottle,put thumb over top end..poked loaded end into hole an blew hard through my end... bee keeper showed me this 40 years ago.
I maintain its only a matter of time till someone injured and bleeding will be killed by wasps..when they zone in on blood they are shocking.
I’m a vespex registered, yes it’s not cheap but I purchase it a kilo at a time share it around okiwi with other folks, the difference it’s has made is huge, two teaspoons full in a couple of bait stations seems to wipe out the local population over night
Get into them now and enjoy the results for the next years, massive reduction in numbers, last year I struggled to get enough wasps to warrant application.
VC the cunning bugger wiped the bait stations down with fresh fish skins before use increased our hit rate 100% .
Love the stuff and highly recommend it. Maybe see if the neighbours will put in for a tub.
But personally for what I spend on bait burley fuel and beer to be wasp free it’s not that expensive at all.
Cheers. I will call the office and give some a try [emoji106]
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