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Thread: water tank retainer wall

  1. #16
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    You really need to prevent water leaking from the tank and pipes from soaking the ground below the tank. Any ground/soil is much weaker wet than dry. Ground that is strong enough to support additional loads can be weakened by moisture and it will slip. If you move the tank or retain the bank where it is you must stop the ground from getting wet. Fix the cracks and leaks and install an overflow to direct the water away from the slope.
    If you know any friendly Geotechnical engineers get them to give you some advice. Depth of poles will depend on the soil types and strength, slope below the tank, presence of any fill, surcharge above, etc. The squeeze may not be worth the juice so moving the tank back if you have the gear may be a better option. Those old tanks often move well.
    Either way I can't stress enough, you must divert water away from the slope.
    rugerman, 40mm, mimms2 and 1 others like this.

  2. #17
    Member 40mm's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Three O'Three;1232468]I do have x2 fibreglass tanks, not sure if they're 2500L or 5000L, plus a 1000L I plan to set up this weekend to drain water from the concrete tank to ease pressure and reduce weight. There are cracks around the tank so it might be past its used by date?

    Dont worry too much about fine cracks.
    Once it is empty, get inside with a water blaster and clean the hell out of it, blast off any and all loose or shitty bits, paying extra attention to the cracks.

    Once dry, mix cement into a 'slurry' (basically just enough water to make it brushable with a broom, and stick to the sides)
    Brush on three coats of this cement/water slurry. This is what the tank manufacturers use to seal the inside of a new tank.
    You can go buy expensive products, but you might as well give me the money and buy cement instead.
    timattalon and Moa Hunter like this.
    Use enough gun

  3. #18
    Member 40mm's Avatar
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    also looks like a goat might be handy!
    Moa Hunter likes this.
    Use enough gun

  4. #19
    John Galt Sr.
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    [QUOTE=40mm;1233092]
    Quote Originally Posted by Three O'Three View Post
    I do have x2 fibreglass tanks, not sure if they're 2500L or 5000L, plus a 1000L I plan to set up this weekend to drain water from the concrete tank to ease pressure and reduce weight. There are cracks around the tank so it might be past its used by date?

    Dont worry too much about fine cracks.
    Once it is empty, get inside with a water blaster and clean the hell out of it, blast off any and all loose or shitty bits, paying extra attention to the cracks.

    Once dry, mix cement into a 'slurry' (basically just enough water to make it brushable with a broom, and stick to the sides)
    Brush on three coats of this cement/water slurry. This is what the tank manufacturers use to seal the inside of a new tank.
    You can go buy expensive products, but you might as well give me the money and buy cement instead.
    Interesting... no sand or straw?
    "Did you know deer aren't bulletproof, and they're made of food?" - Joe Rogan
    Diligentia Vis Celeritas
    Life Advice

  5. #20
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    Don't push a tank, point load and scha-ping smash. Strop it to spread the load and pull it...

    To be honest, easiest solution if you got access to a digger is pull the bastard clean off the hill and re-establish it somewhere where it can't piss off. Do the job once, so it right. Also, don't fluff about with blasting the thing or relining with cement brews - all temp fixes. Just line it with either a tank liner or a painted coating that's potable rated. Honestly the cash invested in the price of doing it right will be the best option. The concrete tanks are actually much preferred to the plastic bastards, as they are much more temp stable. But, they grow bugs into the porous surface hence my recommendation to reline the thing. There's an outfit I can't remember the name of that does relining, aparently a day job and good to go. The paintable products are usually two-pack and cure in a day or two and good to go, but a bit more involved in prepping and coating.

  6. #21
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    Had someone look at it today. $600 to dig out behind it and pull it back a couple of meters, if that don't work then $1000 to buy a second hand 5000L plastic tank fitted by the same guy. Next weekend and overflow pipe will be getting installed. The 2 small tanks are positioned where I want them and if/when we come out of level 3 I'll go into mitre10 and grab all pipes and fittings needed to connect tanks to house.
    rugerman and erniec like this.

  7. #22
    SiB
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    Whilst you’re fluffing with pipes make sure you have good gate valves installed too. It’s good to be able to shut off water…….
    rugerman, gonebush and 40mm like this.

 

 

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