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@Ground Control that's pretty interesting.
Same goes for me, there was bugger all around for centerfires. I only shot standard velocity through mine because I got sick of taking the hose clamp off all the time to get it off. I even removed the front sight and made a little witness mark so I could do it more efficiently otherwise I started to scratch the barrel taking the clamp off.
Still preferred the metal ones. baffles are good.
BUT they do save you having to thread the barrel and if the front sight is close to the end you don't have to remove/refit it to suit.
leaves the rifle ridgy didge too.
I always had a thought to make an adapter so that you would machine an internal thread on the barrel and it would screw in giving you the extra length needed without having to do that. Similar to threading a shotty barrel for a choke.
I see a bunch of tools now around for hand threading the outside of a barrel (without putting it in a lathe) but not for what I'm after although there are hand crowning tools so maybe?
I am also in no way suggesting that those tools would do a perfectly aligned thread and shoulder.
looks like people doing them on ak47s, mosins etc and probably good for that but hey if there are no bullet strikes no harm no foul?
there has always been poor jobs done in lathes over the years so I suppose it comes down to how true you can get it v how true it needs to be.
https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/...rel-threading/
Also the condition of the rifling after the centering rod has rubbed the crap out of it is a concern
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I had a CZ452 in 17hmr which had been threaded internally and had an adaptor which screwed into the barrel and into the suppressor. Never really shot it much before I sold it but I was always a bit suspicious of how it might affect it's accuracy.
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Have used a few slip on suppressors and they work really well.
There is a lot of volume in them, so they work a lot better than aome of the small cheap ones you can get.
Don't put one on a 223 though, it will not end well for you or the suppressor.