at a guess id say 270 with a factory load you will shoot about .4 of an inch low at 100 ,
2 inches low at 200.
hart or lungs its not going to affect the deer you tip over havent seen a deer with 2 inch lungs yet
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at a guess id say 270 with a factory load you will shoot about .4 of an inch low at 100 ,
2 inches low at 200.
hart or lungs its not going to affect the deer you tip over havent seen a deer with 2 inch lungs yet
For ballistic programs I use the spot on by nikon unsure how accurate but seams to give good info when compared to others
This is how I used to sight my .308 in for bush hunting/clearing hunting, all shots within 200 metres. My uncle told me to do it, after I was struggling to set up a zero at 100m. It is alot easier than zero-ing at 100m and it does work, and is surprisingly accurate within 200m. But you need to make sure you zero perfectly and check it at some stage out at 100m or 200m just to make sure. Either way, a quick zero at 25 will get you minute of deer, worked for me back when I was learning to hunt. Now I zero at 200m.
shooter
'If your zeroing at a hundred and want it 2 inch high or whatever why not just wind on 2moa?
That's what i do get a good zero at 100 and if hunting open country wind on 2moa then can take quick shots out to 300ish without having to range or think"- VC
The above is what i do except I wind on 12 clicks for the 30 cal.
I dont like fucking with my scope once its bang on cause I dont trust the heapa dung. When I can afford a real nice one I might have more faith that itll take me back to the same point of aim when clicking away.
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It would probably be fine. Just need to play more. If I know its bang on at 100 id prefer to just hold over a few inches for a 300 shot. Each to their own. Its not that I dont trust it so much. I just feel more in control for the sort of shooting I do just holding over. And seeing as im a bush hunter 100 zero is good. I might play in the future when I can afford a top of the line scope.
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