So the decision i'm trying to make is putting a break or a Suppressor on the .300 WinMag ,
Having a limited knowledge on either was just after some opinions,
Wanted to shoot anywhere from 10m to 600m with it.
Also relative cost ?
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So the decision i'm trying to make is putting a break or a Suppressor on the .300 WinMag ,
Having a limited knowledge on either was just after some opinions,
Wanted to shoot anywhere from 10m to 600m with it.
Also relative cost ?
Are you hunting, shooting steel? what's the purpose of it?
I'd say without knowing what you're using it for one of dean maiseys brakes that turn on/off. When you see an animal at range you'll have time to turn the brake on and if the animal is close it should be off so it wont cream your ears and you won't notice kick anyway cause the animal is close, right
Even for steel I'd still go with a brake, steel doesn't wander off while you put on proper hearing protection.
Sorry should have mentioned that it will be used solely for hunting , cheers for that will give them a search now
Im planning on getting a .300wm and it will be suppressed.
Can I ask why ? I was leaning towards Suppressor for the noise reduction but was wondering whether it was really worth it as 9/10 I only have time for one shot and 1 animal is all I can carry anyway.
Also what brand .300 I was looking at the sendero's for accuracy but the weight is kinda pushing me away from them
Cheers
Just suppress it why even bother thinking about an obnoxious muzzle brake as you won't have time to put hearing protection on if you see an animal. Sorry I just hate muzzle brakes I have heard and felt the blast from one of those at a rifle range and it is not nice even with earplugs in.
And Im tossing up between a remington 700 and a browning x-bolt. I dont really like the look of the Tikkas personally.
Cheers, I have never shot a braked rifle and have a suppressor on my .243 at the moment, the only reason I was considering a break was the recoil reduction and the weight to reduce muzzle jump.
And the cost for this uni student is alot less haha
So that leads onto the next question, which brand of suppressor, I have heard good things about Hardy but understand a few have been blown off with higher powered rifles
A good muzzle brake reduces it to about a 308.
I never suppressed mine but if weight is a issue, a brake is the way to go.
I think brakes have better recoil reduction and I've been told that by someone who did some tests to compare.
I have suppressed my 260 just to protect my ears but my 30-338 win mag is braked. Its recoil is about the same between the 2.
You get what you want to fit the purpose.
Some brakes have ports that face 30 degree forward rather than backwards yet still provide great reduction in recoil.
A good muzzle brake reduces it to about a 308.
I never suppressed mine but if weight is a issue, a brake is the way to go.
I think brakes have better recoil reduction and I've been told that by someone who did some tests to compare.
I have suppressed my 260 just to protect my ears but my 30-338 win mag is braked. Its recoil is about the same between the 2.
You get what you want to fit the purpose.
Some brakes have ports that face 30 degree forward rather than backwards yet still provide great reduction in recoil.
If you going down the suppressor road get one of these
http://www.aseutra.fi/s-series-sl7-suppressor
If your going to get a brake try either of these.
http://terminatorproducts.co.nz/
http://www.gunsmith.co.nz/
Both have there purpose and really comes down to what "you" want.
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Suppressor will also stop muzzle jump the 300 win mag does not boot as hard as what people make them out to be which I found out last weekend when I had a go on one that was running 165grain bullets without suppressor or brake for my first time I actually fired another three rounds just to make sure if what I felt was bugger all.
For a pure hunting rifle I wouldn't bother with either, just harden up and shoot it. ;)
It really comes down to what you want to achieve & how recoil sensitive you are.
A decent muzzle brake will reduce the 300 win mag down to 243 levels or less depending on projectile weight.
They are nasty antisocial things at the best of times & hearing protection is mandatory.
Don't be fooled by all the anecdotal talk of suppressors reducing heaps of recoil it is a myth.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjHEETEVRMo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdJv66bDoSU
Suppressors reduce noise down to a nearly manageable level but not to a completely "hearing safe" level definitely better than no suppressor.
what rifle are you looking at, if it is a sendero you would be making a mistake as they are heavy as.
You say its a 10m-600m rifle so i suspect it will be you're everyday all purpose rifle and will be carried a fair way. Personally i wouldnt be getting a 300 win mag for what you describe but if you are content on it then i would not put a brake or suppressor on it and just shoot it. Suppressor will be to heavy imo and if you are using it for close range work no chance for hearing protection with the brake.
Interesting test
Everything I have fired(not much in the mag calibres) has felt like it booted significantly less with a can on. Im sure some of it is purely perception due to less noise and muzzle flip.
Could it be that if you are getting a similar. recoil force but at a lower velocity maybe? so it lengthens out the recoil cycle and distributes the force across a longer time period?
It would be interesting to go frame by frame and check the recoil velocity of the supressed rifle vs the non supressed. Im sure some supressors reduce recoil better than others also
I have my .243 for my bush hunting but was after a tops rifle, so was pretty keen on the .300winmag as I've read alot of good stuff on it out to longer distances but that doesnt mean when you pop your head over a ridge or into a gully there isnt an animal standing there looking at you. I was looking at Senderos but will probably pass as they would be the best part of a 20lb rifle all set up and thats way to heavy for me, so was now looking at Tikkas.
ok in that case considering you already have a smaller rifle i would get a tikka with either a laminate stock or bell and carlson (will add a bit of weight but a lot nicer than factory and will handle recoil better) also but a limbsaver on before you even fire a shot and you are good to go. Sell the unused factory tikka stock for $150 on trademe and buy a bell and carlson for around $500.
I use a tikka 300wsm for a lot of shooting and i have a laminate stock with limbsaver and recoil is very manageable. Don't get me wrong, it certainly kicks but not to bad.
Yeah I've put some shots through a 300wsm and also 5 rounds threw a 338 and understand recoil will need to be tamed but I hope to think I'll be up to the challenge, I guess its more about putting rounds down range and getting used to it more than anything.
Cheers
Another brand to consider is the thompson ventura, they are very nice rifles to shoot and around the same price as a tikka
I'm really not sure, saving every dollar at the moment hoping to purchase early March. But my budget for rifle and optics will be 4k-4.3k max i think as will need a decent bipod sling and just little stuff like that which all adds up, do you think this is realistic for accuracy terms ? or am i asking a bit much ?
na that budget will be sweet as i will spend it for you.
Tikka in 300 win mag - $1199
Limbsaver - $75
Bell and carlson stock - $600
Sako opti locks - $250 or talleys $105 depends if you want heavy or light
Harris lightweight bipod - $180
Sling - $80
Zeiss HD5 3-15x50mm with rapidZ reticle and lock turrets $1600ish (may be on the high side)
= $3980 assuming you go with optilocks. Sell the other stock at maybe get the scope for slightly less and you will be at $3,750 with a bit of coin to spend on ammo. Sounds like a bloody good setup to me.
or buy my 338 with the nightforce and be real badass....
I have about 25 pieces of paper that look exactly like that with different combos haha, its such a hard decision deciding where to throw your money. but I have to agree with the Tikka , the weight is the biggest factor, I reckon if you bed it properly it will shoot sub 0.75MOA @ 100 with ease. Again limbsaver is a must, and the quality bipod is as well. the scope was the thing I have been humming and haaa'ing over for a long time, need top quality glass firstly but I also want the low magnification range as well as the high end range which is the hard point.
Was looking at mil-dot scope pattern so I don't have to dial wind instead just hold it, thoughts?
na dont get a mildot reticle as it most likely wont match the moa turrets. get a reticle with 1 or .5 moa markings or just the rapid z reticle on the zeiss seems good. The zeiss mentioned above has the 5x multiplier power and you certainly wouldnt need more than 15x at the distance you are talking. could step up to a 5-25 but then you lose that low down power for close up. Other option would be a vx6?
I have a T3 300wm with Boyds Laminated stock. No brake or suppressor. Weight ready to fire, 8.2lbs (24" barrel).
Fine too carry at that weight and fine to shoot. I would not look at either a brake or suppressor unless, having shot it as is, you have some sort of problem with it.
Can't see what that would be though.
Thanks @Shearer , will cut costs that way. What distances you shoot ?
@PerazziSC3 vx6 was what I have been looking closely at, mainly because it was the only brand bar nightforce I recognized.
most people buy leupold because of the name and the warranty, not necessarily the quality.... you would be impressed with zeiss glass, its excellent world renowned glass, ive only owned a lower grade zeiss but it was still excellent.
I've got a 300 mag with hardy suppressor if you get down this way your welcome to try it with and without suppressor