308 barrel length

So toying with the idea of giving the 308 T3 the chop. Its currently 20" with a HRE can but would like to make it a bit more handy in the bush. Thinking of going 18" or possibly 16".

Mainly used in the bush but also tops on occasion, so still need a bit of wallop out to say 350m. Also don't reload and don't really intend to as don't shoot enough to warrant it, so will be only running factory ammo.

So hat are the pros and cons? what kind of MV could i expect out of 16" and 18" barrels with factory ammo?

Maybe best to suck it up and stick with the 20" tube?

Reading another thread iirc 16" should be fine

Hmmm, read the NZ Hunters Bushpig articles and saw they started at 18" and then down to 16" BUT they where reloading with fast powders to compensate, how are factory rounds going to go out to 350m outta the short tubes?

how far are you planning to shoot?

h'mm watching this with interest

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Originally Posted by Gapped axe

h'mm watching this with interest

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+1 think of chopping mine too!

If you have a forward can, why not look at keeping length same and using over barrel to cut down on overall length ?

Chopped two of them to 18".IIRC found they got quite dirty quickly . I think we ended up reloading with a faster powder CFE223 ?
I reckon recoil increased slightly but accuracy was fine. I sold mine to buy 300 Win Mag but 30calterry still has his so PM him for reloading detail if you want it.
They both had Hardy Gen4s and were light and nice to carry round. Personally I no longer mind carrying a heavier longer gun as massive shoulder surgery
dictates amount of recoil I can handle. Cut it you'll like it. Try a few different ammos to see what suits should be all good.

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Originally Posted by ebf

If you have a forward can, why not look at keeping length same and using over barrel to cut down on overall length ?

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Sorry should have more precise in my terminology currently do have a Hardy Gen 4 over barrel fitted. Just wanting to make a bit more handy, current overall length is close to std with suppressor fitted but shorter would be nicer! It's just a case of not wanting to be under gunned with factory ammo in a short barrel. Everyone I've read about who has given their rifle the chop to 16"-18" seems to be reloading with fast powders for it.

As I said earlier would like to have the option to shoot out to 350m max if the opportunity arose.

Discussion Forums

Go down to a post by Chris Hunt he post some information that's useful, I'll post this part but the links there to read it all if you want

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" You need to reload because a federal 150 grain blue box won't cut it
H335 - 2206h powder is a good starter use there manuals for load
Data and work up loads
Run the expensive 110-130 ttsx bullets for maximum performance
with a 16 inch tikka barrel you could achieve 3000fps with the 130ttsx
A good all round bullet from zero to 350-400 yards " up to around
150 kg Animals

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go to SSRNZs face book page to see the extreme end of the scale, he runs 10 inch barrels with 155amaxes to great effect

I'm thinking of doing a 16". Running 168gr A max, it should work out to 500m on most things. Everything I shoot at anyway.

OK guys....getting quite 'moist' now......i have a 7-08 with a 20" barrel, DPT overbarrel can 4" forward of muzzle.....as i only use factory ammo, only hunt in the bush (300 yards max shot), is it advisable to chop off 4"

not really bothered about only doing 2".......your thoughts please!

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Originally Posted by Scouser

OK guys....getting quite 'moist' now......i have a 7-08 with a 20" barrel, DPT overbarrel can 4" forward of muzzle.....as i only use factory ammo, only hunt in the bush (300 yards max shot), is it advisable to chop off 4"

not really bothered about only doing 2".......your thoughts please!

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You only bush hunt or want to shoot to 300 yrds?

They are two different capabilities with factory ammo in a 16 inch barrel

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Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

You only bush hunt or want to shoot to 300 yrds?

They are two different capabilities with factory ammo in a 16 inch barrel

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Hi 'saum', should have worded it better, ONLY bush hunt, but on the edges/tops would still like to take a 300 yrd MAX shot....if the rifle is capable with a 16" barrel?....or should i just leave it alone?

You will need to handload cuz it will hamstring factory ammo.

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Originally Posted by Beavis

You will need to handload cuz it will hamstring factory ammo.

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Big thanks Beavis

Yup, think I might stick with the 20'' barrel, more options with the factory ammo!

If you shorten to 16 inches my guess is that you would have to reload to effectively bush hunt and harvest deer at 300yrds with it. As Sooooooooooo many times 300yrds becomes 350-400 :)

As a factory offering Hornady super performance ammo MIGHT give you suitable power and minimal projectile drop to calculate accurate projectile placement at 300yrds for red deer.

In either case you will want to know your projectiles flight curve and either hold over for the 300yarders or dial.


To answer your question- run the numbers with 20 inch and 16 inch tube velocity and see which data curves (ftlb of energy and projectiles operational fps window) you are most happy with, and which is the most realistic to use.

Now; the oft touted figure of 1000ftlbs of energy required to kill a deer should not be an absolute or final statement. It's simply a line drawn in the sand in the vague world that is external ballistics, to hint at a baseline requirement for humane harvesting regardless of shot angle or species selected, most know a .223 has 944 ftlbs of energy at the muzzle and in the hands of a skilled hunter -can harvest extremely well.

Good luck with your barrel length decision, and hopefully your barrel still likes your projectile of choice if you choose to shorten it.

big thanks for all the replies guys, looks like ill keep the 'status quo'.......

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Originally Posted by Scouser

big thanks for all the replies guys, looks like ill keep the 'status quo'.......

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Go to 18 inches :)

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Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Go to 18 inches :)

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Watching this thread with interest and was about to ask you this, saum! Factory ammo will be ok to what sort of range do you reckon with 18 inch?

There are too many variables to answer that question precisely.

Lets try to answer best i can.....

If and i really mean if, your rifle likes a projectile that at 400 yrds is still in its effective FPS opening range, and is very accurate at that distance then use it.

Do some research on projectiles- Noslers ballistic tips, hornadys sst. Etc etc

You will build up some knowledge of what works at what velocity (barrel length) and then select your cartridge and caliber to suit.

Most buy a rifle then the ammo

I buy the projectile that smacks em down then get the rifle and chambering to push it out to where i want to use it.

I'm off to hunt sika now and am txting this in as i get cell reception so sorry for a lack of complexity in my reply .

Andrew

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Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

There are too many variables to answer that question precisely.

Lets try to answer best i can.....

If and i really mean if, your rifle likes a projectile that at 400 yrds is still in its effective FPS opening range, and is very accurate at that distance then use it.

Do some research on projectiles- Noslers ballistic tips, hornadys sst. Etc etc

You will build up some knowledge of what works at what velocity (barrel length) and then select your cartridge and caliber to suit.

Most buy a rifle then the ammo

I buy the projectile that smacks em down then get the rifle and chambering to push it out to where i want to use it.

I'm off to hunt sika now and am txting this in as i get cell reception so sorry for a lack of complexity in my reply .

Andrew

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Thanks for the reply's 7mm, food for thought!!

Interesting points regarding projectile choice, currently running SST's in the T3 and thinking of going back to softpoint as all bar one have failed to exit deer at close range. Admittedly they have all been bang-flop but the whole shoulder is minced!! However that might be the price to pay as i suspect at the longer ranges the will work better with the slower velocity? So many options!

Maybe stick with the status quo, seems to be working so why change whats not broken eh.

I base my idea in the 168gr A max, due to it having an ok BC, and it is known to wound well down to quite low speed, or so I have read. Out of a friends 18" .308, we were getting 2550fps with this pill, excellent accuracy, and with 2208 no less. I reckon it's possible to get the same or better out of a 16" with a more appropriate powder.

Also how are you guys measuring barrel length? bolt face to muzzle or front of receiver to muzzle? Just measured my T3 and it's 20'' from the bolt face so I guess 'effective' length is a bit shorter than this.

On bolt action rifles , most measure from the chamber face , ie back inside the action , to the muzzle end , so if say you have measure from the recoil lug on a Rem700 to the end of the barrel , and get say 19 inches , then its actually a 20 inche tube , as the barrel threads in say 0.7 inche + .25 lug , gives you close to 1.00 inche .

Later Chris

16" will work fine, but be prepared to go 1-2 powder speeds faster
18" is pretty sweet. 2206h and have same performance almost as a 20" running 2208
The velocity loss per inch isn't linear, nor is it consistent across powders.
Chop it, speed the powder up and get almost what you had but shorter and lighter

I shoot a 16"bbl T3 308 with Hardy g4. Hand loaded 125gn accubonds are doing just under 3000fps. Very accurate and fine out to 300m odd 4" PBR. I cronographed some 150gn Remington fractory ammo at 2620fps. It will have plenty of killing power at 300m but some dial up capability or ballistic reticule would be handy.
I would say cut it and find a factory 150gn load that shoots well in it. There is plenty of choice and I don't think you will be disappointed.