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Having managed to pick up a 1927 Schmidt Rubin model 1911 Carbine for $500 at the gun show in Whangarei today i now have the problem of getting ammo for it.
Just wondering if anyone has any tips on where they have found ammo for it. Or where they have found the best reloading components for it.
Thanks
not an issue I had a k31 for awhile I had to bring dies in from the states not hard just placed an order through brownells for rcbs dies
brass can be made from 284win brass but I ordered the proper stuff through re-loaders ppu stuff but Norma also so make it not cheep but
projectiles are just standard .308
they kick abit just so you know
Attachment 25735
I should never of sold it
oh well ill get another one someday
LGS should be able to get Norma never been an issue for me. Try the local Swiss club if necessary.
Thirdguy - there is a mountain of info on the net re SRs. Start by looking here Schmidt-Rubin Series Google "Swiss rifles" as well. According to this site the model 1911 handles the GP11 ammo which is pretty full on. I have 2 K31s which I load at 308W performance. The Model 11 I would maybe load down even though the GP11 was used in it but look on the net you will find loads. Is the 11 a front locker like the K31 or rear locker? The Swiss still use the 7.5x55. Ammo is also in NZ at the Swiss clubs - but you probably aren't Swiss :) The best powder I found was 2209 and 155gr projectiles. I tried 175gr but didn't get good results. I started out with Graf brass which is pure crap and then changed to Norma (hugely expensive) - both sourced from CR Pains. Dies - endeavour to get Redding, they are the only company that makes dies absolutely correctly dimensioned for the 7.5x55SR. My better K31 easily shoots less than MOA, the other one around MOA. Google "SR serial numbers" and identify the age of your gun. That may also temper the ferocity of your loads ha ha. Have fun they are nice and pleasant to shoot and of course built like a Swiss watch.
Manufacture dates Manufacture Dates of Swiss Schmidt-Rubin Rifles
And I think your gun is a rear locker with the locking lugs mid point on the bolt?
even in the k31 I used to stay near min loads I was only playing with it so no reason to push it hard..... nicer to shoot as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by zimmer
Rambo - I thought you said yours booted? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by rambo-6mmrem
yeah not too bad I guess compared to some rifles I've shot but I hate steel but plates hahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by zimmer
my load
150gn hornady interlock (cheep and shot well enough for what I wanted to do with it)
44gn win 760 from memory or H414 (same powder with a different label)
ppu (highland) brass
not as bad as a no4 jungle carbine with 174gn loaded hot and a steel but pad that sucked
Thanks for the replies, The Cruffler site was quite good for identifying the age and the stamps on it, I will be loading on the light side, Part of the description in my hornady 9th edition Handbook includes a warning on the dangers of overloading in model 1911's due to the case head not being fully supported.
Serial number makes it a 1927 Model 11 Carbine.
Gunworks seems to have some 7.5x55 cases in stock atm so will probably try to grab that and fork out the money for the die set and another shell plate.
Thinking ill try 35-36 grains of Varget behind a 168 grain A-Max as a starting point and see how that goes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thirdguy
Yeh, I think that load is a safe place to be although 2208 doesn't seem to feature as the powder to use certainly in the ADI guide. I think Hodgdons list the calibre as well but of course they will have ADI loads at any rate. Keep your loads real low and you should be able to avoid FLSing too often. After all it is an 87 year old gun!! I have a couple of hundred lead projectiles with Cu wash that I must try. They are made by H&N and loads for them are mentioned on the net somewhere. One thing I always do is make sure the bolt is fully locked up. You can see that by how it rotates right at the end of pushing fwd on the bolt handle. Or a reasonable authoritive (mmm spelling) closing should achieve the same effect.
I got my brass from Gunworks, and maybe does also?
Must admit I haven't fired it after owning for 4 yrs, but IIRC from my prior research it's basically a 308 to load for.
2206H, 2208 etc ( and Hodgdon equivs)
My Varget load data is from the ADI website comparison saying that Varget is the same as IMR 4046 and using the value from Hornady 9th edition Handbooks second lowest value to be on the safe side,
36.1 grains should be around the 2300fps mark and considering i have a rem 700 in 308 for hunting anything that the .223 wont handle the K11 is more for fun target/ historical value i don't mind loading on the safe side for it.
Definitely handy too have some experienced opinions to back up what you read on a chambering to give some extra confidence before you go trying something out.:D
you will very much enjoy it they all shoot very well
should of never of sold mine
oh well one day I will get at least a k31 and k11 if not some other models as well
Gunworks is certainly your first 'port of call' for brass - but if anyone wants factory ammo to get themselves started I'm pretty sure Ballingers H&F Chch had an old packet of Norma when I was in there recently. With the passing of time it was pretty reasonably priced.
