Bits to fit a Wheeler F.A.T. wrench

It looks like this comes with only half a dozen fittings covering hex, torx and flat blades.
Can you just buy more to fit whatever screw or hex size you happen to have on your ring / base / bedding screw ?

Also, any advice on whether the digital version is likely to be better and whether I should invest in an "antislip paste" to get consistent grip or whether an "anti sieze" lube on the screw thread is good or not would all be of interest.

Many thanks for any info or experience people can offer.

Sorry, I just saw fat wench, and had to have a look........:)

Looks to be the standard 1/4 inch hex bit size so any should fit. Theoretically digital would be easier to set to a precise torque. Anti slip paste is an unknown for me, but anti-seize compounds and thread lockers are both handy to have on hand.

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Originally Posted by 257weatherby

Sorry, I just saw fat wench, and had to have a look........:)

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Yeah, must of been a freudian slip, that wording.

This is more of a hand tool I'm talking about here.

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Originally Posted by AzumitH

Looks to be the standard 1/4 inch hex bit size so any should fit. Theoretically digital would be easier to set to a precise torque. Anti slip paste is an unknown for me, but anti-seize compounds and thread lockers are both handy to have on hand.

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Can someone give us a run down on where to use anti-sieze and where a thread locker ?
Is an oil or grease as good as a special anti sieze ? Should it be thick or thin ?

Anti-seize is dead cheap from Repco/Supercheap, little tube of Copperkote will last forever on guns, same with a small tube of blue Loctite. Blue Loctite is much easier to remove if needed, red can be dangerous.

Example of something you should use anti-seize on: Gas plug on M14.

Example of something you should use blue Loctite on: Scope mount/ring screws.

A bit of googling will point you towards more common uses.

they ARE standard 1/4 inch hex bit size. Common as dogs nuts...

Workshop innovation has the FAT wrench - and also an Irwin bit set on sale. Down from 40 something to 22. Mine just arrived yesterday. All fits fine.

Anti siezs should be put on any metal on metal threads, that you want to be able to undo latter, esp if in a wet environment or dissimilar metals,
put lock tite, (blue is best for small screw), on any thing you want to stay on or spins around at a great rate of knots,
Never heard of antislip paste,
spend a little bit extra on bits, to get better quality, they last longer, and don't tend to strip the drive out of the screw,

I use std 6mm hex bits with an extension on my FAT.

For those reccomending loctites. 222 is purple, and is a low strength adhesive. Its good for 22 - 223 low recoil rifles, on scope screws. loctite 243 is blue, and good for higher impact.
Beware though. 222 is good for screws you want to fit and remove later. 243 will be a one-use only adhesive but if you don't want to strip the threads, a hair dryer for a few mins on the screws will break the bonds but not reccomended if its possible that the heat will directly affect the scope. In this case I apply heat with the tip of a soldering iron.

I use anti-seize on my suppressor threads, my action screws, those screws basically that need to be removed for maintenance.

I'd heard you shouldn't use a anti-lock paste/grease that contains copper as it could lead to corrosion of the threads? Is that correct or have I been put wrong?

A few years ago I bought a cheapy hex set from M10 and it has been brilliant. Has metric and imperial and all the various shapes. Quality is good despite the price. Julian/WIL sells the same set Gunsmithing &Reloading Tools - 100pc Security Bit Set, Screwdrivers Highly recommended.
Have also bought extra tips (not cheap) for my Fat Wrench from an engineering outfit. Not that easy to find outfits that sell them though. The extra ones you need are the broader ones than the largest in the Fat Wrench set. I now have pretty well covered all my gun screws including grinding down some tips for perfect fit. No more graunched ugly screw heads :thumbsup:
I personally wouldn't bother with the electronic version. Have verified my FW against a Warne fixed torque handle. They agree with each other but of course they could be both wrong ha ha. Just remember to always set the wrench to its lowest value when finished with using it.

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Originally Posted by Jacobite

I'd heard you shouldn't use a anti-lock paste/grease that contains copper as it could lead to corrosion of the threads? Is that correct or have I been put wrong?

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your been put wrong.
Copperkote is likely the most common anti seize, used in the world, I have used gallons myself, it wont seize any threads, but not using it may.
in extreme heat environment it tends to melt and dissipate, thus allowing metals to seize.
Nickle baized anti seize is better, esp in a high temp environment, ie a suppressor thread,

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Originally Posted by Mauser308

Ahh, do not use any copper-based products on anything aluminium if it's going to be exposed to moisture. The ali gives up electrons to the copper and fizzes out so it's a good way to stuff your crap. A total idiot trick on an ali boat to be fair too...

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Like on a suppressor then???

Well whoever installed the barrel nut on my AR15 did something wrong. I'm having to take it to the gun smith tomorrow as it's just not moving. I'll be sure to have some anti-lock put on it when it goes back on.

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Originally Posted by Jacobite

I'd heard you shouldn't use a anti-lock paste/grease that contains copper as it could lead to corrosion of the threads? Is that correct or have I been put wrong?

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I work in Marine manufacturing industry. copper anti-seize is not really an issue unless you are going to be near the sea. It can cause galvanic corrosion if using a cheap copper grease with potential for some aluminum in the grease, and a blued action. But a good quality copper grease should have some molybdenum in it, maybe even some teflon. I use Rocol (as I get it from work) and it contains Moly and graphite. No Aluminium.

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Originally Posted by marky123

Like on a suppressor then???

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My suppressor has a delrin bushing. So plastic contact to the steel.
On my 22 suppressor, I use PTFE grease on the threads

Sorry back on the subject of anti-lock grease, after some looking around online at various american forums and a trip to Repco I picked up some Castrol Spheerol LMM. It's a Molybdenum Disulphide (whatever that means) with no copper in it and no graphite I could see. That's apparently what you want, at least for AR barrel nuts. At $15 for 450grams it's not going break the bank and that should last me a lifetime. And my kids. And their kids. Also if anybody in the Wellington region needs any flick me a PM and come and take a handful.

Thanks guys for all the advice here, I've picked up a lot of info..

Everyone is talking about anti-sieze being intended to make it easy to undo a thread later, like for your suppressor.

Going back to the torque wrench, would grease be good to make sure you get a smooth screw up and consistent torque / tension ? Or is just a smear of oil the story ?

I suppose you can check your scope screws or bedding screws haven't come loose using the torque wrench without having to loosen them off ?
Or do you get a bit of binding and the wrench clicks off even thoough its actually basically loose and just jammed with a bit of grit or dried hard scunge. So, do you need to loosen screws before you recheck the torque ?

I've seen a "micrometer wrench" which shows the torque as you use it before it clicks off. I wonder if you can see the torque fall away as you start to strip the thread ?

Just be aware that there is quite a difference torqueing screws dry versus torqueing screws lubricated/”wet”. It is possible to over torque/over tighten if lubing. A very rough rule of thumb is to factor your dry setting by .75 if lubing. There are tables that give more acurate settings. If you are using Loctite on the thread that is also considered to be lubing.

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Originally Posted by Bagheera

Thanks guys for all the advice here, I've picked up a lot of info..

Everyone is talking about anti-sieze being intended to make it easy to undo a thread later, like for your suppressor.

Going back to the torque wrench, would grease be good to make sure you get a smooth screw up and consistent torque / tension ? Or is just a smear of oil the story ?

I suppose you can check your scope screws or bedding screws haven't come loose using the torque wrench without having to loosen them off ?
Or do you get a bit of binding and the wrench clicks off even thoough its actually basically loose and just jammed with a bit of grit or dried hard scunge. So, do you need to loosen screws before you recheck the torque ?

I've seen a "micrometer wrench" which shows the torque as you use it before it clicks off. I wonder if you can see the torque fall away as you start to strip the thread ?

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Yes grease is fine, better than oil, both better than none. Put on the thread, and the base of the head, were in contacts the material you are clamping, if not lubed at this point, you can get galling and metal transfer, that give a false torque reading.
it is the torque, "streach" in the bolt that holds everything tight.
stripping threads, likely you wont notice it as a reading on the torque wrench, but you will feel it, if anything that is getting harder to tighten, starts to turn more easy, stop right away, its starting to, or has stripped,
Clean threads, and components, correctly lubed and torqued, very really, give any problem,

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Originally Posted by zimmer

Just be aware that there is quite a difference torqueing screws dry versus torqueing screws lubricated/”wet”. It is possible to over torque/over tighten if lubing. A very rough rule of thumb is to factor your dry setting by .75 if lubing. There are tables that give more acurate settings. If you are using Loctite on the thread that is also considered to be lubing.

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Zimmer is correct here, and I have seen instructions that say torque dry, or a reading for both, follow instructions. Dry torque spec's, is uncommon.
I have never seen any firearm, screw or bolts that aren't oiled from new,