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Hi all
I've just come back from the range and while putting my .22-250 back in the safe, noticed that there is a fair amount of brass on the bolt face.
I haven't seen this on any of my other rifles, just wondering if this is normal?
Factory ammo if that makes any difference.
Attachment 263820Attachment 263820
I would say that's abnormal. Looks like a lof of brass. Not necessarily hazardous though.
What brand of brass ?
It was mostly some older highland ammo that I got when I brought the rifle, several years ago. With a few rounds of Hornady varmit ammo.Quote:
Originally Posted by 30.06king
No problems extracting brass after firing
What strikes me about that bolt face is how dirty/rough/dull it looks. Mirror finish is much easier to clean, nothing much sticks well to it.
A build up of brass on the bolt face acts like a shim; so the firing pin has to travel further not to mention the bolt being harder to close. That doesn't look bad, but I'd clean it off and keep an eye on things in the future.
Was the Highland ammo new or handloads? Looks like the cases may have been over length to the shoulder.
GPM.
I was thinking the oppositeQuote:
Originally Posted by grandpamac
That brass has been fair rattling around in there under pressure
Some of the Hornady factory ammo, especially 'super performance' can be pretty hot if you have a tight chamber.
I was getting pressure signs with it in my 6.5 Grendel.
Extractor marks on brass, lots of brass on bolt face (like you), cratered primers, etc.
What Hornady ammo were you using?
Are you seriously suggesting a tiny smudge of brass filling the low spots on that bolt would affect the length of firing pin travel and therefore ignition ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bos
An un measurable amount of loose brass
The bolt will be in battery too be able too fire.Quote:
Originally Posted by akaroa1
The case will be in the chamber as far as it can go either with or without the smudge of brass.
When fired the firing pin will have driven the case forward anyway if there was a fraction of looseness to the shoulder.
Same difference either way the firing pin will not have "travel further" than it ever had or does in that particular rifle
had it happened with brand-new factory rifles during the "break in period" but it stops happening after a couple of hundred shots give the bolt face a good clean with an old toothbrush and a bit of mild solvent like Hoppies
I parkerized all the metal work on the rifle as the blueing was in terrible shape when I brought it, so it's all dull metal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cordite
Was wondering if that was why it's taking so much brass on
It possibly is the reason, I notice a build up of brass on the extractor also, were you single loading or feeding from the magazine?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan88
I was feeding from the magazine, but fed a couple of rounds as singlesQuote:
Originally Posted by 19Badger
Here are some pics of the bases of the cases and the ammo packets
Attachment 263871
Attachment 263872
Attachment 263873
Attachment 263874
I assume the Hornady case is on the right, based on the PPU/Highland anneal mark.
Bit of a bulge in the case side wall.
'Could be' pressure related and that might fit in with the brass on the bolt face?
Maybe just shoot the Highland and see if its still an issue?
Yep Hornady on the right. I'll try that next time I'm at the range cheersQuote:
Originally Posted by dogmatix
Nothing in your pics suggests any pressure issue to me. If all the brass looks similar the factory ammo loads should be perfectly safe.
I'm guessing the transfer of brass residues to the bolt face is somehow related to the parkerising.
yeah, I can't see any signs of pressure in those photos even the primers look perfect no flatting
There’s brass on the front of the extractor claw so its likely the rough parkerising rubbing some off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan88
Wiser people might have a better idea but perhaps polishing the bolt face with steel wool might smooth it down a bit and restore headspace closer to the original ? What about the bearing surfaces of the bolt lugs - are they shiny now ?
I really don't think cerakote will throw out the head space
Cerakote can be applied in thicknesses ranging from 0.00635-0.0254 mm, and thus has minimal impact on the dimensional accuracy of a part. For parts within a functional assembly, a thick coating could disrupt delicate tolerances and create friction.
When i looked into parkerizing the rifle I checked about machined surfaces and tolerances, from my research it didn't effect any tolerances, and may increase the smoothness of the action as the surface is microscopecly etches the surface and holds oil in the pores.Quote:
Originally Posted by akaroa1
What's amusing is you would have to try really hard to get two factory loads further apart in power,pressure,velocity. Highland/ppu is mild and the other is borderline hotrodded. Give bolt a clean and carry on,nothing to see here.
Not uncommon on a fresh bluing job or parkerising ect
More so if you hit them in the bead blast tank first
Nothing to worry about
Definitely not enough to change headspace
Or firing pin protrusion
Just when you fire case blows out to fit chamber, bolt face ect
And when you open the action (Mauser 98?) the throw of the bolt when you lift
Handle rubs the 2 surfaces together discolouring the new finish
Bit of solvent or brake cleaner on a cloth and a good rub
It usually comes straight off
Same thing will happen if you rub a brass case on the outside of the rifle
Or use Goldie locks to clean rust off bluing with out damaging the finish
Leaves brass residue
Just FYI with a rifle using a Mauser style claw extractor only ever feed from the mag
Never single feed direct to the chamber it will break the extractor claw
And getting bloody hard to find them now
https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesa....home.search.0
great invention for cleaning bolt faces etc. i mostly use them for scraping lacquer off circuit boards
Nope. In my honest opinion that rifle has shuffled off his mortal coil. It's snuffed it.
The best thing you could do is send that obvious death trap to me to dispose of
Don't want to see you get hurt or anything
Hahah very kind of you! I quiet like it if I'm honest, tho it's fairly hefty to carry.Quote:
Originally Posted by csmiffy
One day I would like to get a .243 or .308 to match it.
The Highland came with it when I brought it, and I can't rember why I went with the Hornady stuff, probably lowest price on the dayQuote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Clean face and claw with steel wool, then treat the same area with a small 1" square piece of 1000grit paper as you watch the news. This won't go through the case hardening, but you'll get a shiny bolt face that won't easily rust or take up brass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan88
So.... the saga continues.
Made it out to the range today with some Winchester ammo for the .22-250.
Fired a few rounds and it was grouping better than the other stuff I had tried, but was getting the odd flyer. Put that down to me and wind.
Then after firing about 14 rounds, I was putting the fired brass back in the box and noticed I had a split neck! I quick check and I actually had 4 split necks on brand new factory ammo.
Had a chat with some others at the range and all agreed it was very odd! Someone suggest I checked the unfired rounds I had left, a quick look and sure enough 2 of the unfired rounds had split necks!
So it's gone back to the shop and waiting to see what they say about it.
Attachment 270736
Attachment 270737
Winchester brass, say nothing more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan88
I run Winchester factory ammo in my .300wsm and .308 never had any issues with those.
But the quality of Winchester brass did seem to be a common comment of others out at the range.
Also after some googling, I came across other reports of similar issues but from the early 2000's and then a one off in 2020, mostly to do with .22-250, so wonder if it's a calibre specific issue
