Thread: Calibre and Barrel Length Decision......

If you are going to chop up a Finnlight with the factory fluted barrel, then maybe you should buy the stainless synthetic version 85 and chop it. Its cheaper to buy for a start.

Originally Posted by Mathias

If you are going to chop up a Finnlight with the factory fluted barrel, then maybe you should buy the stainless synthetic version 85 and chop it. Its cheaper to buy for a start.

+1 and get it in 308

Originally Posted by Mathias

If you are going to chop up a Finnlight with the factory fluted barrel, then maybe you should buy the stainless synthetic version 85 and chop it. Its cheaper to buy for a start.

At the risk of sounding ignorant, can I ask why? Something to do with cutting the barrel back into the fluted section? And/or are you telling me the only difference between a Finnlight and S/S 85 is the flutes, and it would be better to get and 85, chop the barrel, and then flute that if so inclined?

TIA.

Helluva a lot cheaper to buy a T3 and chop that...spend the extra $$$ on optics just my 2¢ :-)

Originally Posted by trooper90

Helluva a lot cheaper to buy a T3 and chop that...spend the extra $$$ on optics just my 2¢ :-)

Some people HATE rifles you cant topload.....just saying.

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Some people HATE rifles you cant topload.....just saying.

I thought the new T3X is supposed to have a bigger port for single feeding?

Yeah you still cant top of the mag though

Originally Posted by SlimySquirrel

I thought the new T3X is supposed to have a bigger port for single feeding?

Originally Posted by Nick-D

Yeah you still cant top of the mag though

Yea that, if you feed the chamber from the mag as most would and dont fire you then have to drop the mag and reload the mag close the bolt and re insert the mag vs extract live round and stuff it down with your hand into the mag and close the bolt on an empty chamber.

Originally Posted by trooper90

Helluva a lot cheaper to buy a T3 and chop that...spend the extra $$$ on optics just my 2¢ :-)

That may be the most economically sensible thing to do but buying a rifle isn't always about economics for many of us. A concept many tight arses find hard to get their heads around. You also get some nice features with a Sako over a T3.

Gimp seems to do plenty well with a 20 inch 260. 27-2800 should still be achievable with 140's no? go with the factory length and whack a suppressor on the end. Lop of an inch is you fancy it should still have you clear of the flutes. My rifle is an 18" plus can, honestly I dont think an extra 1 or 2 inches would make any practical difference in the bush

Originally Posted by Maxx

At the risk of sounding ignorant, can I ask why? Something to do with cutting the barrel back into the fluted section? And/or are you telling me the only difference between a Finnlight and S/S 85 is the flutes, and it would be better to get and 85, chop the barrel, and then flute that if so inclined?

TIA.

Was referring that it could be a cost saving by buying the 85 SS if shortening. You could probably buy & do the surgery plus put money towards the suppressor with the difference in cost between the two rifles. However if you intended to flute it, then the advantage is lost.

Originally Posted by Maxx

At the risk of sounding ignorant, can I ask why? Something to do with cutting the barrel back into the fluted section? And/or are you telling me the only difference between a Finnlight and S/S 85 is the flutes, and it would be better to get and 85, chop the barrel, and then flute that if so inclined?

TIA.

I don't know whether it's feasible to shorten a barrel down to the fluted section. I had a 20" .308 Sako fluted barrel shortened to 18" and the chap at DPT said something along the lines of it being doable because the flutes had not been reached at 18".