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Here's a look at a suppressor cover from TAB , they are made to your exact measurements , and have a bungee cord to tighten the cover on to the suppressor , to stop it moving under recoil.
Its on a Ase Utra SL-7 borelock suppressor , the SL-7 is a rather short can .
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d9...psd9995c40.jpg
Colour me dumb as a rabbit ChrisF but what is the point of a cover like that?
OK ,
It depends on the can & calibre , but as an example , using a Sako TRG-42 rifle in 338LM , with a all steel Reflex T8M suppressor , and a 16x scope , I could only 3rds before I had heat mirage off the can so bad , as I could not see the target , due to the seroius amount of heat produced by 3 shots .
The cover acts as a barrier/shield as far as heat simmer directly off the can .
So it enables you to shoot more rds than a un-shielded can , it does however not allow the can to cool as quickly as un-wrapped .
The TAB covers are ONLY rated for bolt guns or semi-autos , and NOT full auto etc .
So a lesser cal , burning less powder wil heat a can up slower than the extreme example of the 338LM .
OK that makes sense to me.
Nice bit of kit how long did it take to get to you Chris?
I had one made here with high temp insulation fabric with a canvas backing for my 260 that works very well. Heat mirage off the suppressor on my 260 was a problem after about 6 rounds and is a problem off the barrel after about 10 rounds.
How have you found the suppressor itself? Is it the. 308 or 338 sl-7?
As for barrel heat mirage a few guy at our range use a length of steel measuring tape that's painted and stuck down with a few tabs of double sided tape. Contour matches that of the barrel and cases the heat to flare out the sides and not straight up in front of the scope.
Hi Gillie ,
Usually about 4 weeks , as every one is a different size ( ie custom made to your dimensions etc ) , and as long as you actually measure the can your self , instead of maybe using the specs off a website etc , so they fit YOUR measurements .
I would reccomend the model above with the bungee cord retainer .
Go to " Riflesonly " to order ,
Cheers Chris
Thanks Chris,
Is that Ase can you have a smooth can? And the suppressor cover stays on alright under recoil?
The suppressor on my 260 is a gunworks and has the raised knerled section is the middle. This rough section basically means the suppressor cover doesn't move under recoil. When i don't quite get it on tight enough i can burn it when it gets too far forawrd of the end of the suppressor.
Cheers,
is there any ill effects of retaining the heat generated? any idea how much that increases the can temp? that must add to the barrel temp?
Go to AUs website to see info , but the SL-7 , is a SS can with 7 baffles , welded I think or cast , BUT it has a threaded boss that mates to the rifle , these are in different threads etc .
The SL-7 is available as a direct thread version ( all silver in colour ) , or the borelock version ( suppressor is silver and borelock mech is black ) , its a heavyish bit of kit , have not used it yet , have used the borelock Jet Z 223 version on a AR , its nice .
SL-7s , have 30 & 338 cal , not uesd them as yet , busy working Xmas & new yr stats .
I really like the fact that they LOCK in place , and will not un-screw by them selves .
YES , the cover will keep the can hotter than with out , just like pink bats .
The bungee is there so you can tighten the cover down a bit , so as to stop the cover moving , as long as that raised center area ( knurled ) is not too big , I think the cover would work ?
Cheers Chris