Anyone in NZ doing it?
Greystone advertise it on their website, but the email I sent to them bounced back as undeliverable.
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Anyone in NZ doing it?
Greystone advertise it on their website, but the email I sent to them bounced back as undeliverable.
What is it??
Spray-on/bake-on ceramic based coating for firearms
What does that do for it?Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
It's like bluing except it actually does something. Supposedly one of the better coatings.
Ok cheers
Umm I think Hardys do it Or contract iit out.Maybe wrong but in three weeks I ll know cos the ex VC Sako is getting coAted and cooked on very soon. Bolt , assembly screws , trigger guard mag bottom , Barrell etc $280.00
Not cheap so I think that's the one . I'll find out tomorrow and repost plus put up some pics when done. "Apparently no rusting at all when done on blued guns" or parts .
DED sell Duracoat pots. Could do it yourself if can't get anyone to do Cerakote, or Brent Sandow does MilSpec coatings.
280 doesn't sound that bad for a hard wearing permanent coating of all the bits.Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy
Can't wait to see it :thumbup:
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Well you lot pay to get mine .223 done, give it six months at work and I'll let you know.
I think that the outfit that makes Greystone silencers does it based near Chch I think..
...I don't want to be a dick, but my first post says I tried to contact them and my email got bounced back. I might call them when I'm back in civilisation.
Its late...
I can follow up about it with greystone if you want gimp
Try this fella?
http://www.reddotrifles.co.nz/
Using TT2 on my mobele
I've had no problems with Greystone (Stuart Geal), Micro Slicked a couple of bolts and Cerakoted a action and barrel very good work, a lot more durable than other coatings. Had no problem contacting him a couple of months ago, would highly recommend him exmilartry Armour I believe.
Greystone quoted me about $450 to do a rem 700. Needs a full week.
Yeah Stu is an ex Army gun plumber and Quail pozzie poacher
Yes mine is getting done by Hardy Rifle in Cerakote. Black is the colour. They send it out to someone to be done.
Hi guys new guy from across the ditch, just had my lever cerakoted thought I'd post a pick to give you an idea
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfab84efd.jpg
Righto. I have spent a wee while researching this. I can set up and do it myself for the cost of getting one rifle done elsewhere. The only issue I have atm is a cure oven, big enough to fit barreled actions and hold a steady 250 degree temp for few hours. Small parts are no issue as you can use the one in the kitchen.;)
An oven is also essential in the degreasing process. It cooks any oil out of the metal.
You can air dry cerakote but it takes a week. Scopes obviously will need to be air dried.
Anyone who wants a scope done, I will do it for free and see how it handles a 250 degrees for a few hrs. Gimp what about your alcan?:D
Depending on how far a jar of Cerakote goes I will get an idea on whether is is cost effective.
I will be doing some of my blaser barrels and saddle mounts and will I post the results. Cerakote has plenty of uses, not just firearms. It could be handy to be set up.
Watch this space.
Watching
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I think I like my Elcan black
Thats a shame. If you change your mind I would like to work out if you can see thru it as well:XD:
Find a motor re-winder. We have had to bake some epoxy stuff and for a couple of cans we get to use the local motor re-winders oven.Quote:
Originally Posted by R93
What people charge for cerakote here is insane
I was going to see what a couple reinecks could get me around town. I have a mate that is a baker so that may be an option.
Shit yes. Thats why I am going to try/do it my self. I am sure Norway had a play doing his own gear? It looked like he did a good job iirc.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
I maybe wrong , but if they are done right , then its a lot of work to strip the rifle down and mask or paint areas needed , ITs much easier to leave everything assembled & paint everything , even stuff that maybe better not painted .
So if its done right , you are maybe paying to have the rifle stripped , cleaned or blasted to bare metal , and then painted & baked , NOT trying to justify the high price , just thinking out loud .
I had a action cerokoted , and due to the close/tight action tolerances , told them to NOT paint the bolt body , guess what , they painted EVERYTHING , bolt was super hard to move to the point of almost impossible , even when soaked in OIL , I had to cut the paint OFF with oil and wet& dry paper , to the bare metal to free up the action .
Also remember that the paint needs time to cure/harden .
Later Chris
What about the air dry stuff? No good? Where are you sourcing it from, be pretty keen to give it a go myself
I will let you know as I progress mate. I am not sure on pros and cons of air drying. It all can air dry as I understand it. It just takes a week from what I have read. Only 2-3 hours hot cureing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nibblet
Cool dude, keen to see how it goes
Righto, got everything I need and its enough to do 3-4 complete guns. More than I need for now.:thumbsup: I have since learned you can only use the air-dry stuff on scopes. So it is slightly dearer.
I wont be doing any of my scopes anyway.
Already, including my time, (hopefully enjoyable) it has worked out cheaper (minus air compressor in the shed) than I was quoted to have just a barrel done, bonus!
From what I can gather, apart from thorough degreasing of all parts awaiting the paint, there are no hidden problems to ruin a good outcome, as long as instructions are followed.:cool:
can only use air dryed on scopes, or can use it on everything including scopes?
Do not breathe that shit:ORLY:Quote:
Originally Posted by R93
I was told that only the air dry will work on scopes. The heat cure stuff wont do a great job because it wont set as well. I doubt it matters if you are set up to be able to touch up whenever.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill999
It goes on really, really thin. It wont even effect fine threads apparently.
I will be testing it on something simple first, to make sure I get it right.;)
Pffft!!! as far as breathing it goes, I have been breathing in heaps worse stuff for years and I have suffered no obvious side effects:D(I picture around 30L of various beverages spat over several computers around Nz about now)
Na, a mask is a must.:thumbsup:
Wait till the missus goes out then whack all the small bits on the oven !! If you knew someone who did pottery it would be handy as !!
Got a large oven sorted for anything really long or majorly big for the odd feed of venison or whitebait.Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy
Most anything else will go in an old spare oven we have. Cooks none to happy why it is still around.
Good to make sure your degrease process is thorough. Bit of heat sure helps that along. We use quite a lot of resin and similar. Heat takes the wait out of that process for sure ..Quote:
Originally Posted by R93
Not sure on what I will use to degrease at this stage but it will invlove heat. Used to phosphate and blue a lot off stuff and had access to a trichloroethylene bath.Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy
Wish I still did, it was so quick.