should look at getting a magnetospeed v2 chrony dude . or getting a bunch of mates together and putting in for one , accurate as , so easy and fast to set up and not affected by light. well worth the cash rather than struggling through life on the conventional chronys wondering wtf is going on and then end up shooting it haha
Jakewire I know bugger all about this stuff but a question occurs to me and that is "could the difference in speed be explained by the difference in temperature of the powder in the rounds on the two days"? A test would be to take ten rounds from the same load, put five in the fridge over night and leave five out. On the next day run the five from the fridge through the chrony from straight out of the fridge ( or chilly bin if you have to transport to the range - i.e. no time to come up to the ambient temperature) and then put the other five through the chrony. If there is a dramatic difference in the fps readings between the two groups then the powder burn is likely to be sensitive to its temperature at ignition and will possibly explain the difference in speed on any two given days.
Just a lay mans hypothesis.
It takes 43 muscle's to frown and 17 to smile, but only 3 for proper trigger pull.
What more do we need? If we are above ground and breathing the rest is up to us!
Rule 1: Treat every firearm as loaded
Rule 2: Always point firearms in a safe direction
Rule 3: Load a firearm only when ready to fire
Rule 4: Identify your target beyond all doubt
Rule 5: Check your firing zone
Rule 6: Store firearms and ammunition safely
Rule 7: Avoid alcohol and drugs when handling firearms
Using mainly adi powder Rushy which is supposed to be pretty stable.
perhaps if I had left a rd in the hot chamber to long before firing, then I could put down an individual 80 odd fps to that
however these were consistant but consistantly higher/ Lower.
Having said that, in this particular case I was using N560
As perhaps in the last of the 30 06 thread , maybe it's just my crony is just not particuarly accurate.
.
Last edited by jakewire; 31-12-2013 at 11:46 PM.
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
I only use my f1 comparatively.
Ie shoot a known load that has been over Gregs ohler and validated at range and if its say fast 80fps subtract that from the load in question.
Gets pretty close.
"Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.
308Win One chambering to rule them all.
The Magnetto speed ones are great, but shooting groups with it on can be a lottery esp with a light weight sporter barrel.
Contact me for reloading components, brass, projectiles, powder, primers, etc
http://terminatorproducts.co.nz/
http://www.youtube.com/user/Terminat...?feature=guide
Are you throwing the powder charges or weighing/trickling individually?
Rainy day project: improve the F1 maybe? The reliance on natural light for the Chrony and the resulting inconsistency has been quite a problem for me (and the cost of 9V batteries). You could try repackaging the guts of it to be covered on both sides and an oversized top so there is no chance of sun shining on the sensor apertures and keeps the rain off, illuminate the sensors instead with a row of LEDs above each, run it (and the LEDs) off 8x AA rechargeables. Works a treat, rain, shine, light or dark. I'll take a pic and post next time I have it out. Maintain exactly 12" between centres for the sensors as in the original, same for the LEDs, to keep the calibration.
Same please.
How much light do you need to provide via the LED's? Can you have too much?
As can be seen the conversion was mainly a mechanical one. Electrically the Chrony circuit has an on-board 5V regulator so either 6 or 8 cells should be fine. Operating time between charges is set by the current run through the LEDs as the chrony circuit itself doesn't draw much.
On the question of brightness I'm currently running 10mA through each LED and I have 20 in a row to get that light-bar effect, all in parallel, so 200mA through the LEDs - the front & back strips are then run in series. 8-10 hour run time. The LEDs came from Jaycar Electronics as some sort of pre-made strip lighting that can be cut to length off a reel. I had 2-3 metres of it and that gave me 60-80 LEDs. The tricky bit is that these then need to be removed and rearranged side-by-side on your own bit of circuit board with their own series resistor each to make a pair of 55mm wide solid strips. They are Surface mount style so this will test your soldering skills. Once done it does work really well and doesn't miss a beat. Less forgiving than the plastic screen if it took a hit though.
Last edited by Puffin; 01-01-2014 at 09:19 PM.
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