Hi guys,
I'm new to cleaning guns. Is it OK to use CRC or WD40 for lube when cleaning a gun?
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Hi guys,
I'm new to cleaning guns. Is it OK to use CRC or WD40 for lube when cleaning a gun?
Yep. Nothing wrong with it for general cleaning and rust prevention.
Not that flash on copper or lead fouling though.
Both WD40 and CRC are good for cleaning. And they do leave some film behind after evaporating so better than nothing. To leave a more reliable protective oil film I wipe over with a rag lightly soaked in 4-in-1 oil.
Gun bluing does not protect much against rust unless it is oiled (bluing retains the oil in its "pores" and together they protect).
Carbon and/or copper fouling - I clean first with washing up detergent mix on pull-through rags. Then I wipe the muzzle and seal it up with electricians tape and point the rifle down. I pour a freshly mixed amount of citric acid + hydrogen peroxide into the barrel, leave 15mins (or until bubbling stops!), rinse well with water and then pull through wads/brush until they come out clean. Finally a rag with some 4-in-1. Not saying it's only or the best method but it does work. Be careful getting this solution onto unprotected (non-oiled) bluing.
Don't rely on it for rust protection though. Not good at all for protection during storage
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Inox is king. It's all I use now in between hunting/shooting sessions.
Basically over many years of shooting I learnt that previously I was over cleaning my rifles. This reduced accuracy for the first 5 rounds or so.
These days I keep a log book of number of shots fired, ie just count the empty ones in the packet when I put the ammo back in the cupboard and record it.
For example:
If I go hunting and shoot 3 rounds, I just push a few patches with a light spray of inox on each patch until it comes out clean...normally 3 patches. Then put the rifle away.
Next time I may shoot some gongs, might fire 20 shots or so....same again, inox...Then put it away.
And so on until I get to about 80 -100 shots fired, then I break out the full treatment and carbon and copper scrub the bore clean. BUT it now pop a bore flag it the trigger guard as a visual reminder to not take that rifle long range hunting, as the first 5 shots will not be reliable enough until it gets a bit of copper fouling back in the bore.
The 80-100 shots is tested, and no loss of significant accuracy has occurred. I have a self imposed mental barrier about there...i.e. I clean then, but should try push it further to actually see when accuracy goes out the window totally? But properly cleaning every 80-100 rounds is way better than what I used to do, i.e. I'd fully clean after even just one shot fired on a hunt.
You don't say which brew of CRC. CRC Longlife for example is good for protection. WD40, virtually keresene in a can, is good for some cleaning. Both CRC and WD40 are good for giving your barrel a blast if you are not going to be able to do a proper job till later/get home soon.
But without going into the whole oils/solvent discussion (bit like Ford versus Holden) there are heaps better products out there, depending upon cleaning or protection.
I will plug for Bore Tech products and Frog Lube whilst I have a chance though :P
Here's probably the best review of products that I have seen but it is focused on protection rather than cleaning
http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=...page_id%3D3667
You should, you might find accuracy is increased due to finding a copper fouling equilibrium in your rifle.Quote:
Originally Posted by kimjon
Keep penetrating oil away from your scope rings.
Interesting kimjon...I fully clean after each outing and had noticed taking about 6-8 shots for groups to come together. I had assumed it was me though might try the copper fouling method next...some say this leaves the barrel more susceptible to corrosion though?
fr $20 you can get the 3 bottle remington kit of solvent, oil and cleaner. crc/wd40 is ok to get you home but nothing like the correct products for the job.
Another+1 for inox or I use sewing machine oil
I notice that accuracy starts deteriorating after 12-20 rounds through the 22-250. Almost definitely due to copper fouling. I hate cleaning but I am so pedantic I have to, after every outing, otherwise I get the anxious shakes.
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Yes, I may be a compulsive barrel cleaner as well. I use crc on bits of rifle I can't rub with gun oil. Also spray dies with it after cleaning...seems ok...might give the inox a go next.
i prefer crc "drilube" on my dies. doesnt get sticky and attract dustQuote:
Originally Posted by stevodog
Here you go samusugiruQuote:
Originally Posted by samusugiru
The Practical Guide To Bolt Action Rifle Accurizing and Maintenance
For storing any of my gun parts, Lanox is my go-to product. Inox and lanolin oil mixed together in essence. The lanolin oil lasts for a long time on the surface of metal products.
CRC 5.56 to avoid at all cost on blued guns. There are rust removing ingredients inside and you will deteriorate the bluing of nice guns.
Use CRC long life, inox or wd-40 or any good gun oil on blued guns.
I use the CRC 5.56 to remove the rust of the stainless guns ( yes stainless rust , particularly inside the hidden part of the stock when the gun has never been maintained.)
For long term storage there is a CRC dry film can, or CRC gel, or lanacote from CRC which is a lanolin/ fish oil based grease.
As mentionné above, read the excellent book from Nathan foster.
Despite having lots of the very best bore cleaners sitting around home, I am always amazed at the propellant fouling that Inox brings out of the bore. Just when you think you have it super clean with your wonder bore solvent, Inox seems to find more!
I am currently running CRC marine. I have 4 odd litres of CLP but the CRC is in a spray can and I am lazy prick. I have noticed when I push a patch through the bore before shooting, they come out dark blue. I am not sure if that means it is breaking down the copper, or whether it just turns that colour when it settles and mixes with the carbon.
just give it a bit of kroil down the tube after every outing and only give it a big clean out if accuracy deteriorates, no need to be obsessive about it
Disappointed - thought this was a link to a useful article, but instead to a US$40 e-book.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow
Lanox is the stuff.
It does all, lube and rust protection.
This stuff is the business, dont ask me where to get it, I bought a small outboard from a boat shop and he gave me a can free to try and told me to give the outboard a quick spray with it after cleaning. I have been using it for all sorts and its good stuff
Attachment 70422
I wouldn't recommend Rem oil, seems to evaporate to nothing. My semis won't cycle unless I drench them regularly with it, have gone to thin synthetic motor oil
CRC, WD40 and RemOil are all way too light to be used as a lubricant. They offer little to no load protection and oxidize quickly, leaving a sticky residue that will seize up your action.
For propellant fouling (carbon) which sounds like you are having problems with try Mercury Marine Quicksilver Engine Cleaner or Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner. General Motors also make an upper engine cleaner which is also effective. Failing that give it a good dung out with Autosol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Krameranzac
Also remember that if people are not keeping on top of fouling it will build up in layers and need to be attached with dedicated carbon and Cu cleaners to remove all deposits and just when you think you have got there, there is more to remove....
Depending on the barrel some will need more cleaning to remove carbon and particularly copper fouling than others. Some barrels always shoot their best after cleaning and some barrels like a few shots through to shoot their best. You have to determine what your barrel prefers.
You'll find that most competitive benchrest shooters are meticulous about cleaning their barrels; some after every card shot.
Regardless, all barrels should be patched with a decent preservative oil if left for more than a couple of days.
I have been using Hoppes #9 for 50+ years, followed by a light spray of CRC 556 or WD40 (just whichever one is handy) and wiped off with a oily cloth. I have never had a problem with the blueing with CRC (and I treat my good collector's items the same way). Some people do over-clean their firearms. Just look after the bores without over-thinking it, just enough oil to prevent rust on external surafces, a touch of lube on sliding surfaces, and remove crud from the nooks and crannies as soon as you notice it. There are heaps of products on the market, all touting themselves as the 'best'. The reality is that they are all much the same. I have tried lots of them and keep going back to Hoppes #9 for its superior fouling removal.
Ah, love potion number 9. That is what I use and seems to work fine. Every so often I'll use some special copper remover.Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
I did suggest that if TR put a dab of Hoppes #9 behind her ears she'd be likely to attract the right type of guy.
Wouldn't be discerning enough to recognise it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mauser308
