Critique Wanted!

Hey Guys so you may of seen some of my previous posts over the last couple of months about purchasing a long range set up. I have come up with this gear, just after some final thought and opinions before I spend all my money. Have done alot of research into this read many books and forums so any other input is also extremely appreciated. Also anyone with some of this gear your opinion on it would be awesome. Cheers in advance.

Platform; Tikka T3 Lite Stainless RH Synthetic Stock (have chosen this due to the 1" 100 yard warranty and also out of the box performance along with top of the line trigger down to 2lb)
Calibre; .300 Win Mag

Stock; After market Bell and Carson #1042 (T3 replacement stock) with full aluminum bedding block.

Optics; Leupold VX6 3-18x50mm (30mm tube) Side Focus CDS with a TMOA Reticle. (scope chosen for life time warranty, reticle chosen so I can hold over for wind but at the same time dial drop)

Supressor; Hardy Gen 5 Stealth Supressor

Bipod; Harris Light Weight Bipod

Then the usual accessories on top, i.e. Sling, cheek piece, limb saver.

Rings was the one thing I haven't looked into as yet.

Have you looked at the Remington long range rifles?
Come with the bell and Carlson ready to go, and rings I like
Talleys or nightforce ultralites

There is an L in Carlson.

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Originally Posted by camo wsm

Have you looked at the Remington long range rifles?
Come with the bell and Carson ready to go, and rings I like
Talleys or nightforce ultralites

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Briefly looked at the Sendero but the weight threw me there. Apart from that have not looked into the Remington Range much deeper for a couple of reasons, firstly have a lot of mates and advice from smiths on the T3 and its performance and secondly Remington is having trigger problems.

What rifles would you be suggesting are worth a look in ?

To be honest, If you are looking long range then the weight is good.... if you are looking to climb the hills in search of Thar then not so much.

The Setup you have researched is fine and it might be worth looking into DPT Suppressors for the lighter weight?
Also consider the Bipod Spikes form Gunworks.

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Originally Posted by sneeze

There is an L in Carlson.

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There you go fixed it

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Originally Posted by SlimySquirrel

To be honest, If you are looking long range then the weight is good.... if you are looking to climb the hills in search of Thar then not so much.

The Setup you have researched is fine and it might be worth looking into DPT Suppressors for the lighter weight?
Also consider the Bipod Spikes form Gunworks.

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Cheers , yeah weight was a big issue in the design but I understood I cant have everything in the idea that some weight is still an advantage. So to answer your question the rifle will do the miles, I like to cover ground so I wont be sitting on top of a ridge all day with a 26" heavy barrel :thumbsup:

Will look into the other supressor and bipod
Thanks

Sweet, the spikes are great and the DPT can I have is very quiet...

Good luck.

sounds perfect; Talley rings will top that set up off nicely. Get the double safety stuck on the rifle and it'll be even better.

My advice is especially with a can involved for 300 the t3 lite is to light. I have a t3 in 7 rem mag with a hardy gen 4 and the poi walks with barrel heat up. To the point where it's hotter than a frypan after 3 shots taking up to 5 mins to make the shots. This will be Affecting you if you are practising LR on Gongs say...

There's a reason the t3 varmint has a heavy barrel...

Eventually mine will get a heavier contour barrel to be a better heat sink, but at the mo I'm working with what I've got and working with the known characteristics.

If you're building for a single long shot on a clean cold barrel - fine. just remember in training to treat it that way. Competitions or club shoots you want something else.

Just my 2c.

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Originally Posted by Carpe Diem

My advice is especially with a can involved for 300 the t3 lite is to light. I have a t3 in 7 rem mag with a hardy gen 4 and the poi walks with barrel heat up. To the point where it's hotter than a frypan after 3 shots taking up to 5 mins to make the shots. This will be Affecting you if you are practising LR on Gongs say...

There's a reason the t3 varmint has a heavy barrel...

Eventually mine will get a heavier contour barrel to be a better heat sink, but at the mo I'm working with what I've got and working with the known characteristics.

If you're building for a single long shot on a clean cold barrel - fine. just remember in training to treat it that way. Competitions or club shoots you want something else.

Just my 2c.

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Cheers mate had given that some thought and had come to the realization on the range I would only be shooting 4 rounds an hour and will just have to deal with that. Thanks for your input though mate!

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Originally Posted by craigc

sounds perfect; Talley rings will top that set up off nicely. Get the double safety stuck on the rifle and it'll be even better.

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Is that the half cock ? Gunsmith can put that on aye ? Any idea of price ?

Hey Dan, can you define what you call "long range".
I think you've got a fairly good package there, and everyone will have different opinions to you, my only concern is the scope, having used one on a lr rig which is why I ask how far?


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Originally Posted by BRADS

Hey Dan, can you define what you call "long range".
I think you've got a fairly good package there, and everyone will have different opinions to you, my only concern is the scope, having used one on a lr rig which is why I ask how far?


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The goal was to hit paper @ 1000yards and if Im capable to hit solid groups take animals out to 750m maybe even more.

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Originally Posted by DanS

The goal was to hit paper @ 1000yards and if Im capable to hit solid groups take animals out to 750m maybe even more.

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Think you'll be fine then:)


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If you want to be having good results at those distances you will need lots of practice, which means lots of shots down range which loops back to Carpe Diem's post #10.
I know a few people shooting out to 1000-1200m, but they would all have a very long think before trying to shoot an animal at the 600m+ mark.

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Originally Posted by Barefoot

If you want to be having good results at those distances you will need lots of practice, which means lots of shots down range which loops back to Carpe Diem's post #10.
I know a few people shooting out to 1000-1200m, but they would all have a very long think before trying to shoot an animal at the 600m+ mark.

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+1 and also the question about what you think long range is.

was talking to someone a while ago and said they had bought a 7RM for long range , to which I reply what do you class as long range. his reply was ohh about 350-400m. me *laughs*. this guy upgraded from a 7mm08 which would have done the job just fine!

Yeah I have a cheapish .243 at the moment which would not be half decent over 300m

I have a 300wm T3 s/s lite, B&C stock, muzzle break & after market bottom metal with AI mags. Got a Vortex PST on top fixed to a rail, It does what I want, drops stuff from 50 yds to 600 yds but gets bloody hot after half a doz shots.

Overall length of cartridge plays a big part if you stick with the standard Tikka Mags. Changing can get you a couple hundred fps.

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Originally Posted by 300winmag

I have a 300wm T3 s/s lite, B&C stock, muzzle break & after market bottom metal with AI mags. Got a Vortex PST on top fixed to a rail, It does what I want, drops stuff from 50 yds to 600 yds but gets bloody hot after half a doz shots.

Overall length of cartridge plays a big part if you stick with the standard Tikka Mags. Changing can get you a couple hundred fps.

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Could explain that last bit a bit more for me , sorry , Cheers

That means by loading your projectile further as close to rifling as possible, your over all cartridge length will make it to long to fit in mag, but that doesnot matter for long range shooting. You will also be able to put a few more grains of powder in the case.

That is why some guys reload as follow on their set up:
One load that fit in mag for close distance stuff and one load for for long distance with single shot feed.sometime with to different bullets but that strike on the same vertical axis.

Before dreaming of shooting at animals at long range, practice on steel plates ( or porcelains plates ;-) at different distances. When you can not hit consistently a diner plate on the first shot you kind of have reach your distance limit! That does not neccessaraly mean that your rig is not up to the task but maybe that you need more practice or experience. Good luck, you have started well so fare. If you struggle at some point a bedding on your rifle AND THEN a fine tuning of your load might help to get the best accuracy possible.
Also depending on how suppressor is fitted it can create tensions on the barrel and make the shots walk pretty quickly on target.

My 300wm T3 has a laminated stock, VX3 4.5-14 x 42 and weighs just over 8 lbs ready to go. It is not suppressed or braked and is quite "lively" to shoot and needs some discipline to get the best results.
It is however nice to carry and I seem to do that a lot up and down big hills.
I also use the 2 load option (Accubond 0-300m and Speer BTSP >300M). Seems to work for me.

I went through a similar process and ended up ditching the suppressor in preference of a brake for anything magnum. Heat quickly became an issue with the suppressor and balance wasn't ideal. My non magnums are shortened and suppressed magnum is wearing a brake.

+1 for mag length comment. I got mine off a mate who wanted to use 208 Amax loaded too long for the magazine so he eventually bought a Remington R5
Its actually a way better gun but so is the price !!
So I have same as you listed nearly but VX3 and Gen 4 Hardy. It loves 168 Amax.
Its gets a bit heavy later in the day but if you not running with it its OK.
Taken deer at 450 no problems. We were shooting rabbits at 350 with it. ( Not to eat mind you ha ha )
Longer than that never really tried.

Friwi has answered your query.

Tikka's have a short mag length so when you come to crank up the speed you have to seat the projectile further out of the case to add more powder hence the now reloaded cartridge doesn't fit into your magazine.

I use 180gr accubonds, they do the business on deer, pigs, donkeys, horses and dogs. When on the pigs and donkeys 2 x 10 shot AI mags in quick succession are the deal, you cant touch the barrel:thumbsup:

@Happy

If you don't extend your mag length, you will probably find its a bitch to single feed also. Well my .223 is.

Shameless plug, but did you see the rifles I've listed lately, proven to 1100y, complete set up with dies and brass, scoped etc ready to go for about half the cost that your set up will cost to make.

Kj

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Originally Posted by kimjon

Shameless plug, but did you see the rifles I've listed lately, proven to 1100y, complete set up with dies and brass, scoped etc ready to go for about half the cost that your set up will cost to make.

Kj

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could you tag me in a couple cant seem to find them

300 Win Mag comes into its own with the heavy bullets but the tikka has short magazines that are not conducive to heavy bullets being seated out so a bit of a compromise has to be found. plus I prefer a 26 inch barrel. If you are going Manum go Remington, don't worry about the triggers thats all sorted now.

For guys who want to upgrade to decent triggers for target or LR use i am holding some of the Jewell HVR triggers in stock for Rem700. Email or PM me for current pricing (exchange rate dependent). Cheers, Dean.