DIY Cheek Riser?

Anyone made their own rifle cheek riser?

I think it is time for a few check risers, particularly on the rifles with a 20 MOA rail. Both TR and myself are not getting a good cheek weld on the varmint rifles (7mmRM). Being a cheap bugger that likes a bit of DIY I'd like to go the DIY route. The yanks seem to like Kydex which looks difficult to get here so I was thinking of just using some HDPE. There are a few places I can source it from and if I want to be really cheap I could just hack up a black plastic drum.

Thoughts?

Kydex is pretty good stuff and if you have a look online its often fairly inexpensive from somewhere like aliexpress.

Although no reason HDPE wouldn't do the same thing.

Couple of thoughts - if you dip 3-5mm leather into hot paraffin wax then mold it it goes very hard and would be nice against ones face - just be carefull with the heat control on the wax, I still have scars on my hands from a moments inattention (my eyebrows grew back after being singed in the flames). Alternatively I've moulded the thin modelers plywood into one in the past.

The point is both these materials are much better to put your cheek against than plastic - which is always "cold".

I'm very much simpler. Closed cell foam cut from a sleeping mat, and 3 miles of insultape to keep it in place.

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Originally Posted by Max Headroom

I'm very much simpler. Closed cell foam cut from a sleeping mat, and 3 miles of insultape to keep it in place.

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Yup that foam or similar was what I used to pack my cheek up when I mounted the OEG on the shotgun to get into line of sight.
Now its on the little lever 357 I would like to be a bit garage and more rustic so probably go for a cheek pad ammo holder or similiar

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Originally Posted by Max Headroom

I'm very much simpler. Closed cell foam cut from a sleeping mat, and 3 miles of insultape to keep it in place.

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Mines simpler than that, cardboard and duct tape :D

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Originally Posted by gadgetman

Anyone made their own rifle cheek riser?

I think it is time for a few check risers, particularly on the rifles with a 20 MOA rail. Both TR and myself are not getting a good cheek weld on the varmint rifles (7mmRM). Being a cheap bugger that likes a bit of DIY I'd like to go the DIY route. The yanks seem to like Kydex which looks difficult to get here so I was thinking of just using some HDPE. There are a few places I can source it from and if I want to be really cheap I could just hack up a black plastic drum.

Thoughts?

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It really depends on how you want it to look and function.
Kydex is really easy to work with and can make a nice looking end product, pretty sure places on EBay ship to NZ.
If you wanted to make it quickly adjustable you can drill the stock and buy some bolts and knurled plastic knobs and do a nice job.

If you don't want to drill the stock, a stock pack or elastic ammo holder can be used to cover up and hold in position foam or wood or pieces of milk bottle to make a cheek riser.
If you don't care what it looks like then just wrap it up in insulation tape.

I made a Kydex cheek riser but decided i didnt want to drill my stock so just got a stock pack will the intention of making a foam riser to go underneath, but ended up not needing the riser as the stock pack was thick enough.

get a silicone implant in your cheek :P
other advantage is people will think you have mumps and keep away

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Originally Posted by Beetroot

It really depends on how you want it to look and function.
Kydex is really easy to work with and can make a nice looking end product, pretty sure places on EBay ship to NZ.
If you wanted to make it quickly adjustable you can drill the stock and buy some bolts and knurled plastic knobs and do a nice job.

If you don't want to drill the stock, a stock pack or elastic ammo holder can be used to cover up and hold in position foam or wood or pieces of milk bottle to make a cheek riser.
If you don't care what it looks like then just wrap it up in insulation tape.

I made a Kydex cheek riser but decided i didnt want to drill my stock so just got a stock pack will the intention of making a foam riser to go underneath, but ended up not needing the riser as the stock pack was thick enough.

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Since they need to be fairly high they need to be easily adjusted so the bolt can be removed when vacating the shooting line and for cleaning. At the moment I've glued a strip of bed roll to a piece of bed roll for TR and hold it on with the elastic bands from the bed roll. Was a quick stop-gap solution and works Ok in that it can be moved, but not adjustable. My rifle was about $450, so nothing flash. PVC and HDPE are easy to get, work with and have good impact and a little give so would be good alternatives but easier to get. I don't mind drilling holes and can make a very tidy job with bits I have or front the local hardware store.

OOn the .303 made a pice out of scrap radiata i had in the shed at that ime crudely shaped screwed on brings eye to scope dead on every time. I made one for a bloke with problems on the rollover cheek piece on a .270
got some heavy duty foam and leather ,then beavered away till i had it all moulded correctly ,then took it to oldest son who does shoe repairs -he sewed it up.sure as shit beat the option of grinding the rollover off:o and last i heard after he gave me a dozen beers(vastly overpicedIMHO) was this was just the bees knees.
Ive got a couple of layers of foame sleeping mat secured with velcro straps on the .223 and 7.62x39 -seems to do the trick.

Al these #8 wire fixes amd no pictures
:useless:

@blair993 has recently made something....

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Originally Posted by cambo

@blair993 has recently made something....

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Should have had a gander yesterday.

I get kydex in regularly, in fact I have lots of it as I make sheaths out if it for the knives I make...what size do you need, I may have some pieces which would fit, or I can grab some extra when I get some more in a couple of weeks, that way I can get the colour you want.

A piece of kydex folded with 2 1 inch slots cut each side in the bottom with some 1 inch velcro threaded through to attach it to the stock would be easy to make and should work sweet

Something like this would be ideal and a quick and easy solution. Has the advantage of being adjustable to get the eye in the right spot for when the zoom level is high and the eye position critical. I have a pile of M6 brass threaded plastic thumb nuts and could use M6x60 stainless furiture bolts for a neat finish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8Cv01rrCWo

I would just heat up the area of the bend in the material and bend it round a former keeping the flat areas flat.

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Originally Posted by dannyb

Al these #8 wire fixes amd no pictures
:useless:

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Here ya go, "Upmarket model" with Blue tape infinitely adjustable and fits in well with my Feet protectors on the bipod eh. Mates just don't appreciate unforeseen cooling vents in their bonnets or roofs
Attachment 92875

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Originally Posted by mikee

Here ya go, "Upmarket model" with Blue tape infinitely adjustable and fits in well with my Feet protectors on the bipod eh. Mates just don't appreciate unforeseen cooling vents in their bonnets or roofs
Attachment 92875

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Kiwi as.

Lovely carbon stock with some foam fixed to it with blue duck tape [emoji23][emoji23]

Love it [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by kukuwai

Kiwi as.

Lovely carbon stock with some foam fixed to it with blue duck tape [emoji23][emoji23]

Love it [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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Aint no foam................. its organic cardboard

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Originally Posted by mikee

Aint no foam................. its organic cardboard

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I hope it is free range, not caged, organic cardboard.

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Originally Posted by gadgetman

I hope it is free range, not caged, organic cardboard.

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That it is :D

Make a curved piece of wood for a mold and soften a bit of marley spouting with a heat gun over it. works like kydex.

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Originally Posted by gadgetman

Something like this would be ideal and a quick and easy solution. Has the advantage of being adjustable to get the eye in the right spot for when the zoom level is high and the eye position critical. I have a pile of M6 brass threaded plastic thumb nuts and could use M6x60 stainless furiture bolts for a neat finish.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8Cv01rrCWo

I would just heat up the area of the bend in the material and bend it round a former keeping the flat areas flat.

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I've done two different styles cross bolted like in your video and vertical threaded posts- this kind was easier and a bit more rigid. Did a cardboard template firmed up with duct tape then cut the flat pattern onto a sheet of plastic. Drilled and cut my holes, then formed it hot over the stock. You don't have to use kydex, just find a plastic that moves well when heated and doesn't go brittle, find its working temperature and put it on a pan in the oven when there's no one there to yell at you :P

For added bonus you can glue some neoprene over the plastic pad for added comfort.

The alternative mounting style is to drill vertically through the stock and have the cheek riser on posts that lock inside the stock. Harder to do and would need a rethink to be super solid. Does look cleaner though.

Looks more like this but without the cutout in the comb of the stock, and no cross bolts, so it can be removed if you want. (this isn't mine, just looks similar)

Attachment 92893

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Originally Posted by Brian

Make a curved piece of wood for a mold and soften a bit of marley spouting with a heat gun over it. works like kydex.

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That's what I'm thinking. I've done it a few times before to make other things with both of the plastics I'm contemplating. Only downside with PVC is it is more brittle at colder temperatures than HDPE. Both are more readily available than Kydex, which does not seem to have much advantage for this application. A $15 bit of PVC pipe would be enough for 5-6 cheek risers.

I've got a couple of these Beartooth comb raising kits.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...cover-neoprene

Attachment 92901

Attachment 92902

Attachment 92903

Attachment 92904

vers 1 and its pretty solid and light. vers 2 wont be as low down the sides and more shape to them. And wont cook it with the pen still on it. Held it place with velcro and it hasn't slipped at all. Will fit a spacer to make sure it goes back in the same place each time. It doesn't need to be adjustable just taller.

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Originally Posted by blair993

vers 1 and its pretty solid and light. vers 2 wont be as low down the sides and more shape to them. And wont cook it with the pen still on it. Held it place with velcro and it hasn't slipped at all. Will fit a spacer to make sure it goes back in the same place each time. It doesn't need to be adjustable just taller.

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Looks good. What material have you used?

kydex. it might be chidex? said made in usa but came from china.

Time for a play. Will try some PVC and some HDPE as there is a heap kicking around and it's cheap like me. If it works OK i can live with it or get some Kydex.

Here is uncle Cordite's super cheap modern yet retro solution:

Take 25cm of the grey wrap-around foam insulation you get for 3/4" pipes. You'll get it in 2m lengths so plenty room for error-and-redo.

Cut out lengthwise segment to fit the upper edge of your stock (hold against back of stock to mark out the profile with a pen).

Use a few spots of hot melt glue to affix (less messy to remove!!!).

To finish, shave off to shape like a Lee Enfield No. 4 sniper cheek piece.

Paint it if you must, can even make screw marks with a circular punch followed by blade screwdriver indent.

Not the prettiest, but its lightweight is so very endearing.

(Sorry no pic, removed it as I changed to a left offset scope on my SMLE, which made a riser unnecessary)

I do something similar, using leather in layers. Attached to stock using Ados glue. Sticks very well but does not damage the stock and is easily removed with white spirits leaving no blemish. Can layer leather one over the other giving a nice sculpted appearance. I use brown nugget to polish the top layer and prevent moisture absorbtion. The finished shape is exactly like a raised monte carlo cheekpiece.

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Originally Posted by Max Headroom

I'm very much simpler. Closed cell foam cut from a sleeping mat, and 3 miles of insultape to keep it in place.

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me too.

It works VERY well, is nicely waterproof and light. and I get to not spend money and time on another solution.

Big band of elastic with foam stuffed inside it

Made a start. Got furniture bolts to match the knobs I had.

Attachment 93135

Cut a piece of downpipe and flattened it out for a rough first draught. Something to just sit on the stock so I can work out what the material is like to work with for this task. A bit of playing around with padding between the riser and the stock comb to get the right height. Shift it backward and forward to figure out where I want it and be able to remove the bolt.

Attachment 93136

Attachment 93137

Feels quite good. My eye is immediately where it needs to be. Next step is to modify/simplify the design and make a better one. Will top it off with a strip of warehouse mouse pad.

I just used some para rubber foam and some non stick vet wrap, topped off with a velcro cheek rest jobbie from Reloaders.
Unsure why gun makers are still making guns with such low combs, can't get a decent cheek weld without pretty much looking down the bore instead of scope. May have been alright when open sights were used.

gadget drop over sometime( ring first just to check i aint gone walkabout) and ill show you my efforts.did a leather one for the 7.62X39 but not happy with the end result so will repeat it then use that experience to redo the .223 one.