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Hey guys looking for advice on what to do with this.
Was looking to do my first bedding job on my M70 and found the recoil lug looks like this.
Attachment 189796
Figuring it will be pretty hard to get it out if at all after bedding.
Was thinking about getting it milled square and clean.
Just smooth up the lug face with a file and it will be fine. I would go with two thicknesses of insulation tape on the forward face of the recoil lug and same on forward face of the rear lug. The tape will prevent a mechanical lock occurring. Tape the bottom and sides of the recoil lug with a narrow strip of tape so that after bedding the lug has clearance under it. Nathan Fosters rifle bedding tutorials are excellent as are his bedding products. (He provides Carnuba wax as a release agent which works perfectly, but his vids need updated as these show the use of shoe polish)
no problem there...one layer of insulation tape and it is cancelled out.plenty of release agent...kiwi liquid boot polish and powdered graphite extra if you scared.
From the photo that looks like the rear of the lug, in which case you don't want to tape it, or you will have a gap between the lug and the bedding, allowing movement under recoil. Only the front, sides and bottom should be tapedQuote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Yep it's the rear of the lug so tape is not an option.
Have studied all Nathan's tuturials and a file had definitely crossed my my mind so will give it a go.
Are you doing a full length bedding job or just front and rear ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobba
Please post a photo of the full action.
@Moa Hunter
Haven't decided yet on full bedding or front and rear. Was going to do some more study then play with plasticine to see how it's going to look while still clearing safety etc.
Here's some pics of the action.
Attachment 189903
Attachment 189904
Attachment 189905
Yes, file it with a very slight forward taper and polish the surface with wet & dry backed by the file. Breaking the sharp edges also helps. Bed from the front edge of the mag well to about 50mm up the barrel, and from the rear of the bolt stop slot back. Take care to fill the holes and trigger slot with putty or plasticine. A plastic shim cut from a plastic ice cream lid and put under the mag well will give a nice clearance off the stock but still be close enough for all parts to line up nicely.
@Bobba , If it was mine I would do the full length bed using Nathans kit. It is all stripped and clean and begging for a full bed. I have done two in the last two weeks never having done the full length bed before. Your winchester has nothing that will cause a mechanical lock like the BSA Hunter I did last. It takes a lot of prep but is very satisfying when you see the result.
Thanks for the input guys. Ordered bedding kit today and will keep you updated on progress.
Great news. Nathans plasticine makes the blocking and damming easy. The drinking straws and threaded rod ( bolts with heads cut off) are a real key for when the metal work is lowered into the stock - the drinking straws sit up and keep the compound from running down the action screw holes and then they slide down with the metalwork through the holes in the stock when it is lowered. If you look at his vid on bedding the lee enfield there is some really good info that compliments the step by step vids.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobba
PS I just used bolts that were a near enough fit that would finger tight screw into the action - no need for the correct thread
If you are scared to use the file , we could mill it for you since you are almost down the road from us.
my model 70,and funnily enough the zastava both used the same bolts.....which were brass coated,allen key headed ones out of a BBQ frame,they were perfect match for the thread.
Thanks for the offer Friwi. I used to be pretty good with a file before I became an office chair warmer. Will give it a go and take you up on that if I make a meal of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Friwi
Yep thay raises the next issue. Quick measure and some googlefoo says the threads are 1/4 UNEF (32 TPI).Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Will have a dig around and see if I can find something to work. Trade tools have a die nut if all else fails.
I used metric fine into UNF holes and to be honest the slight 'play' is probably an advantage as the action is lowered down, in that the screws have a little wiggle going into the plastic drinking straws. The screws are wrapped with masking tape right up to the action so they dont need to be a correct thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobba
I bought some headless bolts from Workshop Innovation I hoped were right for bedding my Brno, but the thread was wrong. I threaded the other ends and they worked great. I’ll see if I can track them down and see what threads they are.
Like these, though I bought the CZ550 or Mauser versionQuote:
Originally Posted by Cigar
https://reloadingdirect.co.nz/shop/g...-guide-screws/
Thanks Cigar. Will look into those.
Came out pretty good I reckon.
Attachment 190030
Yep, I bought the Mauser version, I expect it won't do the M70 as they sell a different version for that. The other end that I threaded to fit my Brno appears to M4x0.75
The only problem areas I can see are the step face above the front edge of the mag well and the lug at the tang. I would file bevel and polish that rear lug so that it will slide nicely in and out of place. That forward face at the mag well needs two or maybe more layers of insulation tape on it so that the action can move slightly forwards and up as it comes out of the bedding. If that face is tight to the bedding it will make it difficult to assemble and disassemble the rifle in future and that face does nothing to transfer recoil. Just another reason that Remingtons are better than Winchesters:PQuote:
Originally Posted by Bobba
Made a start on grinding out the stock in between power cuts. Gone as far as I can without action screws to line it up nicely and finish up the edges. Hopefully sort something this week.Attachment 190191
@Bobba how did you go getting the screws ? In all seriousness I didnt find having the correct screws to be of consequence. I have bedded a Rem 700 and a BSA hunter in the last three weeks and used the same 'near enough screws' for both and they turned out perfect. Even the original correct screws are a loose fit in the holes in the stock, so therefore the screws do not 'align or centre' the action, they only near enough locate it. Add to that, the screws are wrapped with masking tape, so they are only a help. It is the bedding that aligns the action. The reference marks and 'dams' are far more important to have correct IMO. Something I did as a beginner that Nathan doesn't, was to put a few wraps of insulation tape around the barrel near the end of the fore-stock to make sure the barrel was centralised - just enough to touch each side of the fore-end, but not enough to create any upward pressure.
Hope it turns out perfect for you too
@Moa Hunter Bit of a delay in getting this all done. I ordered screws and bedding kit and got them sent to work but then the boss sent us all home to work due to covid. Anyway back in at work tomorrow so hope it's all sitting there and get it already to bed on the weekend.
@Bobba, did you catch the bit in one of Nathans tutorials where he says to wrap the rifle with 'glad wrap' to save on masking ? I gladwrapped the for and butt stocks. and laid the gladwrap into the barrel channel to catch spillage coming over the plasticene damQuote:
Originally Posted by Bobba
@Moa Hunter yep caught that bit. Have all the bits now so will give it a go this weekend hopefully.
Well it's in there let's hope it comes out.
Attachment 191230
Well it came out and appears to have worked. Took a good few hits with the hammer and there was a definitly a oh f@ck moment before it popped. After a clean up I'll get the action back in and check there isn't any movement. I cleaned to much off the bead and it sank in a few places but hey should do the job.
Attachment 191437
Thanks for the input and advice guys.
That looks pretty good mate :thumbsup:
tidy alright,well done.
An easy way to check the action is to do up the action screws snug, stand the rifle vertical and loosely put fingers on either side of the barrel so the pads of your fingers are on the side of the barrel and the tips are touching the edges of the barrel channel. Then loosen the front action screw. You should not feel the barrel move.
I had a crack at bedding a mates old m70 .243 :D
I've bedded a bunch of different rifles with no issues. This one I had a great idea of keeping it warm with a light in the box. After 20mins I popped out to check it and it was too hot to touch :on fire: 100watt bulb was way over kill.
I found out the next day that this had melted off all the release agent (kiwi polish) and glued it in the stock. :sick:
After drilling all around the front action screw I got it out. Busted a few impact driver bits before attempting drilling it free.
Then it was a desperate hour in the freezer as I still couldn't get the stock off. This worked after the 20th desperate hit.
Repaired the front action screw hole in the stock and bought a new set of Forster m70 action screws.
Got it in the end! All mint!
My mate is over the moon with it as the bottom metal all works properly now. Haven't accuracy tested yet though.
LOL, I bet that was a bad day. I shouldnt laugh - I am waiting on a Winchester 70 to cure at the moment. The clock dings at midnight tonight...
I believe a hot water bottle and wrapped with towels then WAIT 24hrs is the proper procedure.......its a looong 24hrs.
Bedding is not for people in a rush
